Unwrapping a Cybertruck - removing a PPF wrap

[AO-Pete]

We're only guessing at this point, since it's the first stainless car since Delorean, and wraps have come a loooong way since then. But I do still think that any reputable product that uses a solvent-based acrylic adhesive will be fine. Paint obviously has a much smoother surface compared to the steel, so there is more surface pitting that over time the adhesive could leach into, but I don't think it's an issue. I've used 3M Di-noc in architectural applications and removed that many years later from all kinds of substrates without issues (aside from the wall paint coming off with it). Clean up on s/steel is also much easier compared to paint.

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[TWRAPS]

Since you and Abstract Ocean only have your wraps on fro 6 months or less, my plan is to leave it on there for years...like 2-4 years. Do you anticipate it leaving residue if on for that long (or longer)?

Good question and honestly I have to be making an educated guess as I haven't had mine for more than 6mo. My guess is that there won't be significant difference between 6mo and 6 years in terms of removing the PPF. I base this opinion on the following data:
* I've developed our CT wrap template from scratch. In the process I've wrapped mine countless times and I've removed PPF from it at various stages of curing. There is a definite difference between removing a 1 day old wrap and an older wrap, but in my experience removing the orange one (6 months old) - it was the same as removing a one week old wrap.
* I've had 2 customers who wrapped with us (TWRAPS HQ) and already had small accidents with their CT and needed re-wrapping. We did the change of the affected panel and it was the same behavior as the 6mo old wrap in both cases.
* I see the experience of unwrapping is vastly different depending on temperatures. If you unwrap in cold, it's tricky. I actually heated the panels for 30 min before starting the unwrap as it was really cold that day. But on a warm cured panel it always feels the same way.
* I don't see how the glue can change further post curing. This 6mo old wrap has seen scorching hot temperatures (110F outside, parked in the sun) and freezing cold temperatures (Tahoe trip in mid 20s F). It's seen snow, salt, water and mud in various parts of the body of my CT. The removal felt absolutely the same through all the parts. Just about the only thing tricky to remove was the laser cut acrylic Foundation Series plates that I put on mine.

So while I can't bet my life on it, my guess is that a 5 year old wrap will be the same - as long as it's warm, it should be easy to remove once you peel off the edges.

 

[koolio]

Thanks so much for the detailed reply! Appreciate you sharing your thoughts and experience.

 

[Foundation Series Dude]

Not sure if *most* PPF wraps are done this way but I've seen many install videos where the installer uses a heat gun or even a torch to wrap corners. Any clue if that heat will anodize (change the color) of the stainless steel?

Would suck if you removed your PPF only to find a whack of "blued" corners all over your CT!

 

[Deleted member 17810]

Not sure if *most* PPF wraps are done this way but I've seen many install videos where the installer uses a heat gun or even a torch to wrap corners. Any clue if that heat will anodize (change the color) of the stainless steel?

Would suck if you removed your PPF only to find a whack of "blued" corners all over your CT!

Nah. PPF/vinyls can't take much more than 250 degrees. Corner wrapping and shaping are done in quick fashions and around that temperature.

Steel anodizing gets into the 500 F range and higher. You'd have nothing but black pieces of bubble gum vinyl before any color change happens on the SS.

 

[Foundation Series Dude]

Nah. PPF/vinyls can't take much more than 250 degrees. Corner wrapping and shaping are done in quick fashions and around that temperature.

Steel anodizing gets into the 500 F range and higher. You'd have nothing but black pieces of bubble gum vinyl before any color change happens on the SS.

Fair enough! Thanks!

 

[TWRAPS]

Not sure if *most* PPF wraps are done this way but I've seen many install videos where the installer uses a heat gun or even a torch to wrap corners. Any clue if that heat will anodize (change the color) of the stainless steel?

Would suck if you removed your PPF only to find a whack of "blued" corners all over your CT!

What @Kahpernicus said I didn't use heat gun on mine as I wrapped it in the summer (100F) and didn't need one, but we use heat gun on customer CTs that we wrap and no issues. PPF and vinyl can't tolerate the temps needed to damage the steel.

 

[OldDirtyRobot]

I've removed an XPEL wrap and it was a huge pain in the ass.

 

[TWRAPS]

I've removed an XPEL wrap and it was a huge pain in the ass.

TWRAPS PPF is better. XPEL is overpriced for what you get, just with big marketing budget to gaslight people into thinking it's good, one of the reasons we stopped using them years ago was quality issues. They also use high tack glue which only pros can handle and it's still inefficient in terms of labor (both installing and unwrapping) and extremely unforgiving for DIYers. We use different kind of glue which makes it easy to install and easy to remove while not posing any risk from it unsticking by itself.
Also I don't know if XPEL is color infused, co-extruded or laminated, but if it's laminated like most brands, then removing will be a PITA as the color layer will break and parts of it will remain on the steel, evidence from testing a competitor's brand PPF early in summer 2024 (photo below). We have 2 series of PPF one is color infused the other is co-extruded, so that plus the pressure sensitive adhesive means removing is as easy as I show in the video.

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