Sound Deadening - Part 1

[misdemeanor]

For next level sound deadening you can spray this in the nooks and crannies of the door after applying the sheets of deadner.

I’ve thought about doing this, but what I have now is pretty dang good. But I may try this method out if I even disassemble the door again.

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[misdemeanor]

Did you also adjust the flushness of your windows while you’re at it?

I didn’t, but the rear windows could use some adjustment. That’s next on my to do list.

 

[hyperpunx]

I can’t recall anything. Could it be the panel right below the squircle?

Hmm possibly! Does that come off easily?

 

[misdemeanor]

Hmm possibly! Does that come off easily?

Shouldn’t need to remove the shroud completely. Just try to add some closed cell foam to it since they tend to creak and make sounds especially over bumps

 

[hyperpunx]

Shouldn’t need to remove the shroud completely. Just try to add some closed cell foam to it since they tend to creak and make sounds especially over bumps

Thank you!

 

[misdemeanor]

Thank you!

More specifically on this clip. I recommend adding some felt where the upper and lower shrouds meet.

 

[braveanthony]

Check this. This guy strips the entire car and applies the sound deadening and anti vibration stuff.

 

[misdemeanor]

Check this. This guy strips the entire car and applies the sound deadening and anti vibration stuff.

I'll check that out.

Thank you!

 

[Gundo]

I feel like that back wall separating the rear seats from truck bed allows a lot of noise infiltration. Especially with K02s. I sat in back the other day and was really pretty horrified by just how loud it is.

 

[misdemeanor]

that back wall separating the rear seats from truck bed allows a lot of noise infiltration

That's next on my list!

 

[Bridgeboy69]

I can't but think the best bang for the buck of reducing road noise would be more perimeter sound blocking, and not the whole surface area of the door like you are doing. Most of the road noise leaks through the perimiter of the door through air gaps....not through the surfaces of the door panels themselves...

 

[WILLK]

Shoutout to @ReidT22440 and @TeslaPatriot for the inspiration. I used some cheap butyl mats as the base, then went over that with Second Skin Damplifier Pro. The @Cybertruck door is SOLID! More pics below. I’ll finish up the rest of the doors tomorrow. ‍

I only did the driver-side door today, but I’ll be finishing the others tomorrow. I used two layers of butyl mats (first layer was a generic brand, followed by a second layer of Second Skin Damplifier Pro which is good stuff!) plus foam on the door and beltline panels.

I can already tell it makes the door feel much more solid. No rattling at all! It does require removing the window and closeout panel to reach the empty cavity, though.

The clips on the door panel were being difficult, I’m surprised I didn’t break any in the process. Other than that it was pretty straightforward.

How long did it take to do the whole job?

 

[MICyber]

Is the base layer the Kukwuyby then the Second Skin over the top? Did you remove the lame three pieces that Tesla put on from the factory?

 

[misdemeanor]

How long did it take to do the whole job?

Around 2 hours per door. I’ve still got a Part 2 and 3 of this project to do.

 

[misdemeanor]

Is the base layer the Kukwuyby then the Second Skin over the top? Did you remove the lame three pieces that Tesla put on from the factory?

Correct, base layer should cover 90% of the surface. Then you can add an additional layer on top of that. About 60% coverage should suffice.

I did leave the factory butyl pieces. The more the merrier

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