This is a great idea, but how would it be controlled? Baja has one that has limited tilting. Not sure how that one is controlled either, might need one of their fancy switching solutions like the one with the LCD.
I also saw Atomic's custom wheel offer and decided to go with them in downsizing to 18's. Going to go pretty close to stock offset and width and asked them to develop an aero design inspired by the OEM wheel covers. Not sure if I will go with beadlocks or not, will probably depend on what they...
I bought the mirror, screen swivel, and front under seat storage bins without issue. If anything, got TOO many emails and confirmations about shipping. Received an immediate reply with tracking when I asked about one of the three items that lagged behind the others by a couple days. No...
I finally installed the mirror and used the 12V direct wiring mod, bypassing the supplied harness to avoid any audio issues. Instead of the fuse box (I don't really have or need other accessories that require 12V power) I used some DC barrel plugs, male and female, with screw down cable terminal...
Yes, that's what Teslaken describes. It turns on and off with the vehicle. That being said, I am in the middle of wiring it at this very minute, but that is the intended functionality.
This is an easily accessible switched 12V (actually closer to 15V) power feed that won't mess up the audio to...
The harness simply taps power from the OEM connector. Direct wiring eliminates the harness completely, and the speaker issue along with it. You still need the power convertor, though, it converts 12-24V DC to the 5V needed for the USB-C power. The mirror runs off USB-C power, not 12V. But you...
Run 12v power from under the front of the center console. This can directly lower the mirror without the harness. Look up Teslaken here on the forums. He has videos also
The solution is to direct power it by tapping center console power eliminating Hansshow's adapter. TeslaKen has the process on YouTube and on his website. I don't have the mirror yet but it has been ordered and plan to use that method to wire it.
I don't think that's how it works. A poorly insulated lid will severely affect efficiency. If you plan on running this continuously, like I do, then it could be a battery drain problem compared to the other one, which I own, and already consumes a decent amount of power.
I'm also concerned that the lid does not look well insulated at all. That will hit this refrigerator's efficiency. The V1 center console fridge lid is pretty well insulated.
Thanks. I would like to get some lights with the front bumper but would prefer a more integrated design, like you did for the reverse lights on the rear bumper. Is it possible to put two S2's on each side recessed in the grille area without the tow hitch? I'm not really liking the four pod light...
Do you have any better pictures of the production front bumper? both without and with the hitch? I'm loving the rear bumper design but the front looks unfinished in the pictures, just a big gaping hole without the hitch mount there. Is there a planned grille or something.
Love the choice of...
I may be in the minority, but I prefer the super stealth aesthetic and integration of the OE light bar MUCH more than other options, even if it's not as powerful. Hopefully mine doesn't blow off 😔