CTX Bumper / Wheels+Spacers / Black Matte PPF / Tint

[CyberNickOH]

Got the CTX bumper installed with 8 pod lights, all HXB, super winch SX12R, 22” CT7 wheels with wild peaks. Satin PPF wrap. Painted and decaled brakes. 1.5” wheel spacers as well. All from @T Sportline

Overall the CTX bumper system install is pretty straightforward. Videos for each step, with took me about 12 hours total. The kit comes with literally everything you need and tons of extras. The only thing I wouldn’t mind having were new push tabs as those break easily. I happen to have extras lying around, but some might not. You can install everything but 2 steps by yourself. The winch plate and bumper. Let me know what you think. I will be definitely adding the rear bumper and side step plates. Unsure on the bull bar, but we’ll see. Big thanks to Brian at @T Sportline for all the help getting the CT to look like this.

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[Mettalicron]

Nice! I have mine on its way, was hoping it would get here before we head to moab tonight but unfortunately it seems to have been delayed twice already :/.

looks SICK though!

 

[personage]

Looks great! Mine arrived yesterday.

Would you recommend mounting the lights before taking off the stock bumper, or do I need to swap the harness for the front camera first?

 

[MICyber]

Looks good but my OCD would not live with the wire management for the top lights.

 

[personage]

Looks good but my OCD would not live with the wire management for the top lights.

Any tips on how to improve? I'll be installing mine soon.

 

[CyberNickOH]

Looks great! Mine arrived yesterday.

Would you recommend mounting the lights before taking off the stock bumper, or do I need to swap the harness for the front camera first?

Definitely mount the lights to the bumper before installing. I mounted my outside 4bangers with the brackets included in the 4banger box, rather than the extra included 4banger mounts and now I need to switch them and it’s going to be a pain, if I even can. But as far as wire management goes, you won’t have any issues.

 

[CyberNickOH]

Any tips on how to improve? I'll be installing mine soon.

I don’t disagree with this, but you can’t see them head-on, just from the side. 2 drilled holes right behind the lights would be a nice addition for cleaner routing. Just need to rust-proof those.

 

[personage]

Definitely mount the lights to the bumper before installing. I mounted my outside 4bangers with the brackets included in the 4banger box, rather than the extra included 4banger mounts and now I need to switch them and it’s going to be a pain, if I even can. But as far as wire management goes, you won’t have any issues.

Thank you. Just looking for ways to minimize downtime, as I won't have 12 hours without interruptions, and would prefer to prep what I can before taking off the stock bumper.

 

[CyberNickOH]

Thank you. Just looking for ways to minimize downtime, as I won't have 12 hours without interruptions, and would prefer to prep what I can before taking off the stock bumper.

Mounting the lights is really only gonna save you an hour or so. Watch the videos before you start and that will help. There are 2 mounting plates to install, those are the 2 trickiest steps. The one with 2 bolts up in a hole is near impossible, but obviously can be done. That little B fell into the frame like 3 times and had to get out with a magnet. Helps if you have longer skinny fingers, I do not.

 

[MICyber]

Any tips on how to improve? I'll be installing mine soon.

Looking at T-Sportlines pictures they appear to be mounting the 2 banger Morimoto's lights with one bolt each. I circled one in the picture. Morimoto does sell a link kit so you can make a lightbar (bangerbar) out of them and have mounting points only on the ends.

https://www.morimotohid.com/Links-Mounting-Accessories-BangerBar-Single-Row-2Banger?quantity=1

You'd have to buy 3 link kits $105. If you went that route the two middle holes could be used to route the wires under the lights rather than the back of the bumper. Each light comes with a mounting bracket which 2 could be modified by cutting one end off. A file and some black spray paint and who would know. I put a red line on one of the pictures. That way the slot on both sides will allow for positioning. Morimoto does sell an end kit at the same link but the holes would not work for mounting.

Morimoto uses a standard DT connector so you can combine two lights into one harness.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T3GMXLQ

 

[cyberguy123]

temu bumper

 

[cyberville]

Nice work CyberNickOH...pure awesome!

 

[CyberNickOH]

Looking at T-Sportlines pictures they appear to be mounting the 2 banger Morimoto's lights with one bolt each. I circled one in the picture. Morimoto does sell a link kit so you can make a lightbar (bangerbar) out of them and have mounting points only on the ends.

https://www.morimotohid.com/Links-Mounting-Accessories-BangerBar-Single-Row-2Banger?quantity=1

You'd have to buy 3 link kits $105. If you went that route the two middle holes could be used to route the wires under the lights rather than the back of the bumper. Each light comes with a mounting bracket which 2 could be modified by cutting one end off. A file and some black spray paint and who would know. I put a red line on one of the pictures. That way the slot on both sides will allow for positioning. Morimoto does sell an end kit at the same link but the holes would not work for mounting.

Morimoto uses a standard DT connector so you can combine two lights into one harness.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T3GMXLQ

I don’t think the DT connector is fitting thru those slots. Have to cut and splice. Not worth the minor appearance change. You see wires on light kits often, it’s normal. I did change out the outside fog brackets today, I had to unbolt the main bumper to get room. And remove the skid plates. More time, but I have it and looks much better.

I really want to lift the truck off the ground like TS did, but I don’t know. I got a huge tree right by the driveway. Probably 5000 or so pounds on the winch…and tree for that matter.

 

[MICyber]

I don’t think the DT connector is fitting thru those slots. Have to cut and splice. Not worth the minor appearance change. You see wires on light kits often, it’s normal. I did change out the outside fog brackets today, I had to unbolt the main bumper to get room. And remove the skid plates. More time, but I have it and looks much better.

I really want to lift the truck off the ground like TS did, but I don’t know. I got a huge tree right by the driveway. Probably 5000 or so pounds on the winch…and tree for that matter.

I'm not sure lifting like that will be good for the gigacast structure.

How do the lights get powered? The frunk power outlet via a step down 48v to 12v transformer? That has a limitation of 400 watts and those HBX lights draw a lot of power.

Four banger HBX 42w x 4 = 168w
Two Banger HBX 24w x 4 = 96w
Total = 264w

Should be good...

 

[CyberNickOH]

I'm not sure lifting like that will be good for the gigacast structure.

How do the lights get powered? The frunk power outlet via a step down 48v to 12v transformer? That has a limitation of 400 watts and those HBX lights draw a lot of power.

Four banger HBX 42w x 4 = 168w
Two Banger HBX 24w x 4 = 96w
Total = 264w

Should be good...

The 48v frunk supply can handle 400 watts, so if lights is all you have, even 8 HXB, you just need the 48v to 12v inverter. Or converter, not an electrical engineer. If you get a winch, you need a 12v battery to power that and then a 48v to 12v charger, which is what I did. All my lights and winch run off the 12v AGM. Then randomly I’ll just flip on the frunk outlet to charge the battery. Let’s be honest, my CT is a grocery getter. When I randomly hit a dune, I’ll make sure it’s charged.

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