Speaker Locations, Sizes, Types?

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Does anyone have a list of all of the speakers and their locations? I’ve read there are 15 speakers total. It’d be nice to know their sizes, locations and speaker types. This is what I’ve come up with so far.. if anyone has pictures of any of these speakers and or locations please share.

3x 4 inch midrange in the dash near the windshield
2x 1 inch tweeter in A Pillars.
2x 8 inch coaxial? in front doors.
2x 4 inch midrange in rear doors.
2x 4 inch midrange in the headliner above rear seat.
2x 8 inch subwoofers below rear seat.
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Unfortunately not all of the speakers are listed in the service manual yet.
 

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If your plan is to replace them, be careful. Typical speakers likely won’t be plug and play like most other vehicles for several reasons. The only speaker manufacturer of which I am aware that is tackling the cybertruck for speaker upgrades is Light Harmonic. They are the only company (I think) that ever came out with an amp that was Tesla-compatible (for the Model S, certain model years only if i remember correctly), they have made speaker kits for the S3XY models, and they are working on a kit that will replace most if not all of the CT/CB speakers along with the option to convert the subwoofers from ported to sealed with a compatible amp. This likely won’t be cheap since they will probably be the only gig in town for at least a while but who knows as more and more are sold. Crutchfield has some low ohm speakers that are compatible with other Tesla models but with the 48v architecture on the CT/CB no guarantee those would work at all. If you choose to experiment be sure to let others know what you did and how it went.

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Does anyone have a list of all of the speakers and their locations? I’ve read there are 15 speakers total. It’d be nice to know their sizes, locations and speaker types. This is what I’ve come up with so far.. if anyone has pictures of any of these speakers and or locations please share.

3x 4 inch midrange in the dash near the windshield
2x 1 inch tweeter in A Pillars.
2x 8 inch coaxial? in front doors.
2x 4 inch midrange in rear doors.
2x 4 inch midrange in the headliner above rear seat.
2x 8 inch subwoofers below rear seat.
I heard there is a powered subwoofer
 
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JayWebbMD

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I’m in the process of adding subwoofers and it has been very difficult to find the correct equipment. More info to come on that, but things to know about do upgrading the existing speakers:
1) any “upgraded” speaker will almost certainly be quieter without increasing the power. This is the same for any car on the road. Sometimes you can get better high frequency response on a basic 4 speaker vehicle because the aftermarket speaker has additional tweeters on it, but this PROBABLY isn’t the case in a 15 speaker system because crossovers are probably incorporated into the amp and all frequencies don’t go to all speakers. Even if this isn’t the case and you get better highs, the low end will suffer because everything is heavier than a cheap paper cone.
2) upgrading the amplifier is going to be challenging. I don’t know yet where the factory amplifier is and have yet to find anyone showing it in pictures or providing any details. My guess is that the amplifier receives a digital audio signal and the first place you’ll find an analog signal is at the amplifier output, which you would have to step down with a line out converter to serve as the input for the amp. So noise will be amplified twice. Also, I’ve spent hours searching for 48 volt amplifiers. There were supposed to be some coming from SoundStream I believe, but they are pretty low power. Potentially enough power to drive door speakers, but not really for subs. However, if you go the 48 volt route, know that the voltage on those accessory lines is actually 46.8 in mine, the battery in the truck is 41.6, and per Tesla, the voltage on those lines can range from 28-58 volts. The first iteration I tried was using a Wondom amplifier board from China which can handle 25-50 volts precisely. This burned up with a 52 volt supply. Some of the other boards they have may work for door speakers power levels and that power range, but it’s a very narrow application window.
3) the factory 8” subwoofers are passive subs, not active. I haven’t found evidence of a “distributed amplifier system” as was mentioned in one obscure forum post from while back.
4) there is room to build a 2.5 cubic foot subwoofer box under the back seats if you remove the factory subs.
5) the entire system sounds like ass with no factory or aftermarket subs
 

JackCypher

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Does anyone have a list of all of the speakers and their locations? I’ve read there are 15 speakers total. It’d be nice to know their sizes, locations and speaker types. This is what I’ve come up with so far.. if anyone has pictures of any of these speakers and or locations please share.

3x 4 inch midrange in the dash near the windshield
2x 1 inch tweeter in A Pillars.
2x 8 inch coaxial? in front doors.
2x 4 inch midrange in rear doors.
2x 4 inch midrange in the headliner above rear seat.
2x 8 inch subwoofers below rear seat.
Your post compels me to stay how fantastic the sound system is in the Cybertruck. I've had about every Mercedes AMG including G-wagons which feature Burmester sound system which can be up to 760 watts and 18 speakers.

The CT sound system is more immersive - perhaps because of the interior larger volume and the flat interior surfaces - don't break up the sound as much. The base is fantastic including the rumble bass for those low notes.
 


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Two of the speakers are outside the cabin. One for the horn in the front and one for the backup sound and lock sounds in the rear (lower volume than the main front horn speaker).
 
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I’m in the process of adding subwoofers and it has been very difficult to find the correct equipment. More info to come on that, but things to know about do upgrading the existing speakers:
1) any “upgraded” speaker will almost certainly be quieter without increasing the power. This is the same for any car on the road. Sometimes you can get better high frequency response on a basic 4 speaker vehicle because the aftermarket speaker has additional tweeters on it, but this PROBABLY isn’t the case in a 15 speaker system because crossovers are probably incorporated into the amp and all frequencies don’t go to all speakers. Even if this isn’t the case and you get better highs, the low end will suffer because everything is heavier than a cheap paper cone.
2) upgrading the amplifier is going to be challenging. I don’t know yet where the factory amplifier is and have yet to find anyone showing it in pictures or providing any details. My guess is that the amplifier receives a digital audio signal and the first place you’ll find an analog signal is at the amplifier output, which you would have to step down with a line out converter to serve as the input for the amp. So noise will be amplified twice. Also, I’ve spent hours searching for 48 volt amplifiers. There were supposed to be some coming from SoundStream I believe, but they are pretty low power. Potentially enough power to drive door speakers, but not really for subs. However, if you go the 48 volt route, know that the voltage on those accessory lines is actually 46.8 in mine, the battery in the truck is 41.6, and per Tesla, the voltage on those lines can range from 28-58 volts. The first iteration I tried was using a Wondom amplifier board from China which can handle 25-50 volts precisely. This burned up with a 52 volt supply. Some of the other boards they have may work for door speakers power levels and that power range, but it’s a very narrow application window.
3) the factory 8” subwoofers are passive subs, not active. I haven’t found evidence of a “distributed amplifier system” as was mentioned in one obscure forum post from while back.
4) there is room to build a 2.5 cubic foot subwoofer box under the back seats if you remove the factory subs.
5) the entire system sounds like ass with no factory or aftermarket subs
I want to add a sub in the front of the center console seems like 2-2 1/2 cf available.

My plan is to ignore any CT specifics and throw in a 12v battery or two under the rear seat with all the amps/dsps required to run 10+ speakers/subs.

From there there are plenty of 48v buck converters to be able to keep the 12v battery charged.
 

mongo

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3) the factory 8” subwoofers are passive subs, not active. I haven’t found evidence of a “distributed amplifier system” as was mentioned in one obscure forum post from while back.
It's distributed into the body modules, not the speakers themselves.
Amps are in the left, right, and rear backbone controller nodes with no analog wiring other than the amplified feeds to the speakers.

Sometimes you can get better high frequency response on a basic 4 speaker vehicle because the aftermarket speaker has additional tweeters on it, but this PROBABLY isn’t the case in a 15 speaker system because crossovers are probably incorporated into the amp and all frequencies don’t go to all speakers.
The crossovers are digital.
 

mongo

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From there there are plenty of 48v buck converters to be able to keep the 12v battery charged.
You might also use the 12V (13.5V) aux feed from the trailer 7 pin connector, though a dedicated converter would provide current limiting.
 
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It's distributed into the body modules, not the speakers themselves.
Amps are in the left, right, and rear backbone controller nodes with no analog wiring other than the amplified feeds to the speakers.


The crossovers are digital.
Do you have pinouts of these modules? Any analog signal closer to the rear will save a lot of headache.
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