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I bet a lot of us have caused crashes. I think I've caused at least one.

Oh, I realize now I could have grabbed my traction boards and shoved them under the rear wheels. Or maybe both traction boards stacked under one rear wheel.

Hmm. Not putting the tires in the ruts seemed impossible at the time because they were so deep and the banks were so steep but maybe. There was already like 700lbs of shit in the back and the only person I had available weighs 105. Extract mode was useless, I think it limits torque too much.

If you're thinking of ordering an AWD or if you wish your Cyberbeast were an AWD, contact me and we can make an arrangement where you get an AWD cheaper than new and I get the Cyberbeast I should have ordered in the first place!

Should I have just sent it with great speed and power? I ended up going around a different way.

Oh ok. I didn't realize there's so much more to the beast than a different rear drive unit. I mean software obviously. I guess in my head if the hardware was swapped to beast than the software would just detect that. But front drive unit I thought was the same. Guess not.

Has anyone asked Tesla service if it is possible to install the Cyberbeast rear drive unit in a dual motor CT? Or would it make more sense to simply sell/trade-in the dual motor and buy the beast?

The best code is no code?

The back corner of the driver door basically suspended half the truck. Body panel not damaged at all, just literally embedded ~1cm into a wooden picnic bench like a hatchet (across the grain though, lol). Hinges bent a bit. Door wouldn't close afterwards at all, with a misalignment of around...

Hey guys, I got a hi-lift jack for my off-road recovery kit, for use as a jack and as a come-along winch. It looks like the jack points on the truck are too far inboard for it to be useful. Should I ditch it and get something else? Or maybe I could get one of these, I think I would need a jack...

2 GPM is a lot for a camp shower

I'm gonna check if the fridge's power consumption is <60W. If so, a USB C PD breakout board should be able to power it. I also ran a 48v power feed to the bed no problem. I am not drilling the bed side wall to add a connector just yet, but I might.

I am taking delivery of the tent on the 30th but my wife wants to cancel it. She thinks it is going to be too narrow for her. Anyone down here have one? I live in Pembroke Pines but I'm willing to drive an hour or two to see one.

Except the power feeds on the roof and in the frunk are meant to power user accessories. I am running a cable from the roof one.

Idk it comes with a 15V/6A AC adapter and I am going by that.

Oh FFS I pulled the upper bed side wall, following the service manual, and the plastic clips are apparently made of cake. And the part that is made of cake is molded in to the side wall.

I'd need to verify that the 48v at the power feeds is always-on, but I guess I could run a wire under the roof applique and attach it to the 48v on the roof.

I need some always-on power in either the bed or the cabin, to power a refrigerator. 48V 2A would do fine. I see in the manual there are power feeds on the roof and in the frunk, presumably for lightbar and future accessories. Very frustrating that they didn't provide some kind of 12V or 48V...

So I really like the idea of internal bead locks. Basically an inner tube that inflates and applies force to the beads. Benefits are supposedly you can air down all the way to sub-10psi with no worries about a bead letting go, there's less volume in your tires so you air up and down faster, and...