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That battery is also powering everything else in the vehicle at the same time if the DC/DC and/or main pack fail.

Typically they take apart the battery pack and pry cells out. They won't be putting the pack back together if they do that.

Another video of the same event

I'd much rather see Sandy jump the line than any celeb. The big downside with celebs getting them early is if any of them have problems there will be a crap load of negative press.

If this is correct it's a 4ah battery, times 48V is less than 200Wh/hrs, that won't be able to do much. https://insideevs.com/news/704749/tesla-cybertruck-low-voltage-battery-48v-4ah/

The people reporting no steering would suggest otherwise.

What's the difference between Current and Target Current, and why is only Target Current shown?

Maybe not, steering draws a lot of power and the 48V battery may be too small.

Possibly different types of this treatment leave different surface finishes.

In the Model 3 video he actually says what the rotor coating is: Ferritic Nitrocarburizing, FNC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferritic_nitrocarburizing

Depends on how thick the "surface" coating is. Obviously pads wear faster than rotors by design so there could be a layer on the rotors which lasts many years, and since EV's use the brakes so much less it could last a very long time.

Steering system needs a redundant and isolated power source which still functions if the main pack and 48V system fails since there is no physical connection between the steering wheel and rack. It does not seem to have that which seems like a major fail.

WD doesn't last long, I'd use something thicker if going the oil route. Maybe chain lube, terminal spray, gear oil, etc.

I think windshield installers use a very thin wire with handles to pull and cut the adhesive.

"You're not a bullet, you're a Mexican" :ROFLMAO:

Without power to the motor inverter you won't get regen so the car should still coast somewhat. There will be some drag from the motor magnets.

I think this one takes that title

Tesla likes to keep things simple, especially on vehicles they are struggling to ramp production. I don't think we'll ever see what you describe.

As I mentioned in another thread I'd do a light sanding or wire brush then apply phosphoric acid on the bare metal. It will dissolve the light rust that remains and passivate the surface into iron phosphate and prevent further rusting. Might need to reapply once in a while, or apply some paint...

You don't see it because most vehicles have caps covering the center hub. Most will get surface rust under the caps unless they are painted. If the CT had shipped with caps you'd never notice.