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Ambient temperatures in the low 50s and frunk had no issues opening and closing multiple times.

Follow up… the frunk worked fine, however we had some serious sun and heat, frunk got stuck again! Had to remove the front panel to trigger the latch to release the frunk. It clearly has issues with the latch and heat.

I used a vinyl plotter to cut out some 3m Pro PPF and applied them to the camera lenses. Optically clear and so far no chipping. I applied them to all exposed camera lenses including the fender ones.

Increase the speed with the maroon pad to see if it will refine the surface.

Then step down to grey to remove the maroon scratches. What kind of polisher are you using?

Go with the maroon a bit more till it looks less scratchy. Then go to grey.

No need to go back to tan, keep using the maroon till the surface is less scratch and then finish off with the grey.

I run it back and forth in that small area @ slow to medium speed. After using the tan pad, step down to maroon and run a couple passes till you see less scratches and then finish off w/ the grey pad. Can you share some pics after using the tan pad?

Yes, make sure you tape up/protect the trim and areas you don't want sanded.

Encountered this issue in July. Driving 15 mph for 2 miles was embarrassing. Found an article that explains how the service center deals with this. Instead of drilling through plastic, used a portable endoscope camera on an iPad to fish a metal tool to release the latch. I’d probably would...

Since the pads are small, they can easily get clogged. Try washing them or use a new one. If the maroon pads aren’t working, may need to step down to a 3m tan pad which has lower grit and then go back to maroon ones to have a consistent finish. Make sure you aren’t putting a lot of force on...

I used medium speed setting on the flex polisher and made slow steady passes. What kind of pads are you using? Did you clean the pads or have spares?

I used the random orbital attachment that came w/ the Flex polisher. Use a clean maroon pad as it's lower grit. If you're not able to take the shine off... it may be a clogged and/or a higher grit pad. Can you post up a picture of the area that you're trying to fix? Thanks!

Similar issue, going from Park to Drive or Park to Reverse... the rear driver side parking brake would make a loud grinding sound. Technician detected low voltage in brake circuit and diagnosed it as bad rear parking brake caliper and replaced both rear calipers last week. Drove it 400+...

You could always lease it and get the $7500 off and then buy out within a month. Depending on fees, you’ll probably save $6k.

Same here, I have an upcoming service appointment and removed the Cant Rail replacement service item as mine are still solidly attached.

Went this route as well, 5% front / 15% rear. Rather not engage, just let them drive by.

Looks like they only did spot sanding vs sanding the entire panel. If you've owned the vehicle for sometime... you may opt to find a detailer who can sand off these scratches using appropriate grit sanding pads or diy.

Avery Dennison Nano Ceramic IR 5% front / 15% back, no windshield tint. Front metered at 4% vlt and rear 2.4% vlt. Would suggest going to 20% in the rear to get closer to front vlt %.

There's a couple approved sellers here that sell DIY Tint Kits. They appear to use Avery Dennison (Nano Ceramic IR or Encore Supreme IR). I installed the Nano Ceramic IR version and it's been good (20% front / 50% rear). Will redo them as I want to go darker as 20% doesn't provide enough...