Recent content by bwilliam79

As with all things, it really depends on your comfort level with taking things apart. There used to be a service bulletin on this, but I'm not finding it now. I've also seen some people reporting Tesla's answer to this is to just replace the door entirely, so if you aren't wanting to go that...

Yea, I had to remove the glass from the one door I had issues with. Pretty surprising they can't reproduce the issue if it's the same thing I had going on. It was a distinct metal on metal sound every time I shut the door and it was not subtle. I do have some squeak/creak type noise on just...

Yep, the circled part is what you're hearing rattle if it's the same issue I had. Unless things have changed, there was a strip of butyl tape put between that bracket and the outer door skin, but it had failed. If you have butyl tape, you can replace it so the bracket is adhered to the outer...

The ones I bought are M6 x 25mm, but Tesla has since come out with a quick release mechanism for the tonneau applique, as they call it, and you may not even need them. I think this is the part, but you'd want to double check.

Yep. I find it easier than the tool they provide.

You don't need to unfold the tent to remove these screws. I take my tent out and put it back in quite frequently. The screws are definitely a little hidden by the tent cover, but they are still easily accessible. As others have said, less than five minutes to take the tent out or put it back...

Agreed. It’s actually the entire vertical length of the window that isn’t making good contact with the seal and I showed them as much before the drive with the tech where they were able to hear the sound. I also showed them I believe part of the issue is the window bows out when fully rolled...

This also explains why it wasn’t immediately obvious what the service center did to my truck and why I still hear some air. It looks like they put adhesive foam rubber behind the seals.

Thank you! This is helpful to understand how it is being fixed and seems pretty DIY friendly. :)

Do you have pictures of what you did? I just had mine in for service for this yesterday and they did something similar, but I couldn’t tell where they stuffed the foam rubber at first glance. Whatever they did definitely made things better, but I still hear some air coming in.

I'll lead with it's a pain in the butt to get to and not for the faint of heart, but if it is indeed the same issue I had, I simply put a piece of felt tape on the inside of the door where that bracket was hitting and I never heard the rattle again. That doesn't replace whatever function that...

The issue I had at the time was shutting the door made a terrible metal on metal clanging noise. It was just the internal bracket hitting the outer skin and I took the door apart myself and put some felt tape between the bracket and the door until I could get it in for service. Perhaps your...

This is interesting. It sounds like you are describing the problem I had with my driver door early on and it was resolved by simply replacing the butyl tape between the door skin and the internal bracket. There was even a service advisory for how to do this. It was a pain in the ass to get into...

I’m dealing with it as well. Last time I had it in for service, they couldn’t reproduce the issue because it was over 40F. They asked me to just bring it in next time it happens, but that’s not an easy ask given it requires it is both cold enough outside and that I have the availability to “just...

Is it cold outside? It could be the diaphragms letting air out of the battery pack. We had it happen quite frequently with our Model 3 in cold weather. It’s a little unsettling at first, especially when supercharging, but totally normal as the battery is keeping pressure in the pack normal...