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Taking my skid loader off to auction in my dump trailer.

Same here. It was a tight parking spot and I used my right hand to shut the door and didn't have time to move it out and it shut completely closed on my 3rd and 4th fingernails. Lost one nail and got a few stitches, but I freaked out and happened to be at a Tesla service center dropping it...

You’re right. You also have to turn the parking brake on. Controls / Safety / Park Brake

You’re lucky that you didn’t get hurt or damage your truck. You need to put it in jack mode so it engages all of the brakes and doesn’t roll off the jack. You do not need to have your son hold the brake. Use the manual and look it up before lifting your truck.

Did you put the truck in Jack mode?

I don’t understand what you’re saying. Are you saying that the wheel moves while you are trying to tighten the spacers on?

Brilliant use of the L tracks! I need to do this for snowboards. Thanks for the idea!

T Sportline replied to me with this: Please use the Tesla recommended torque spec of 205 Nm (151.2 lb. ft.) for the spacer nuts.

There’s definitely a software issue with FSD where it wants to cut the corners early on left turns. Right turns have no issue and parking no issues. With my 1.5” spacers, I don’t see any difference in range or turning radius.

Works great and running similar beta issues like cutting left turn corners too much, but that’s unrelated to wheel spacers.

I was original poster and posted photos in the top of the thread. I used a mount from Amazon and is solid.

I have my front windshield tinted and the shop said they don’t recommend mounting on the windshield because it can separate over time.

Could an iPad mini be mounted on the left-hand side with the mount?

How does the wiring work? Are you tapping into power from the left line spot light? I love the clean look and fit and finish, but I prefer to have my phone mounted top left of the screen. It would be great if I can just get a wiring kit, that is long enough to plug-in from.

There’s 12V power in the windshield /mirror controller area. I followed this video to see how to remove it and tap into it using a 12V radar detector mirror tap I got on Amazon.

Which STL did you use? The one I had with the link before didn’t line the screws up well.

Waze is only useful as people mark. Sometimes they aren’t updated in 30 min or more. Also, if you drive roads outside of main highways, radar detectors are 10x more useful than relying on Waze.

I thought about it but figured it was one more step and waiting few weeks to test which may or may not work well. This was quick and easy and I like that the original mirror is still in tact. I’m going to try a wolfbox with the oem ball mount to replace the existing mirror but use the post and...

I used this print and tried a couple different settings but the filament was not good with hot days. The screw holes didn’t line up 100% either. I don’t think it was worth messing around with 3D prints when I can just keep the mirror and the radar detector...

I tried the 3D printed one and removed the mirror, but it didn’t hold up and the model didn’t have the holes aligned correctly. I didn’t try printing as one suggested by outsourcing the model to an aluminum shop. I tried removing the mirror and using a 20mm mount but I think it hangs too low...