Do you know if the "Keep Acccessories On" Switch makes a difference? I turned it on to be safe, but wasn't sure if it affected the frunk power.
I’ve done the same but I don’t think so. I think that affects the usb ports and the wireless charging pad only.
This was so much easier:The Cybergearco fridge comes with a built-in AC-DC converter as its power source. This converter is in a separate plastic housing that mates with the fridge in the installed position in the center console forward floor. There are a few issues: (1) the Cybertruck shuts off its AC power outlets whenever an AC charging cable is plugged in to the truck; and (2) there are conversion losses when converting DC from the 123kw hour main battery to AC, and then there are additional conversion losses when then converting that AC back to DC.
Forum member (and buddy) Hemiarch and I both had the idea to power the Cybergearco fridge from a solar generator stored in the frunk. He wired his yesterday and his solar generator is providing AC to his Cybergearco fridge in the truck cabin. It’s a great setup and avoids the problem with the Cybertruck shutting off its AC outlets whenever an AC power cable is plugged into the Cybertruck. So the fridge can keep running even when Level 2 charging, for example.
I also wanted to run my fridge from a solar generator stored in the frunk. Hemiarch and I texted about trying to find a male-to-male 12 volt extender cable that would make it easy to run DC from a solar generator located in the frunk to the fridge’s DC input. We couldn’t locate that specific cable anywhere on Amazon or elsewhere. Hemiarch decided to go ahead and install to the solar generator in his frunk, and to just use an AC output on his solar generator.
I then went and took the Cybergearco ac-dc converter apart. Low and behold! It’s innards are just an AC-DC converter brick, and the output of that brick is just a common DC fridge plug.
Below is a group of photos showing my straight DC install.
You unscrew 4 screws in the ac-dc converter. Unplug (I unplugged and removed) the internal AC-DC converter brick. Run your DC cable from the frunk to the center console. I had to etch a few of the vent slats out to allow for my DC cable head plug to fit in the plastic housing. Plug your DC fridge cable into the DC plug internal to the Cybergearco power supply housing.
This allows for the fridge to be run either from the 48 volt accessory feed in the frunk using a Buck converter or from a 12 volt output from a solar generator in the frunk.
It also avoids the conversion loss of DC to AC back to DC.
Happy Cybertrucking!
Love the solutions everyone is coming up with for this fridge. I picked up a Anker C300x for a decent price during prime days. I went with the frunk placement since I needed the under seat storage and I already had the buck converter installed for my underglow and DRL mods.
I wanted a clean look so purchased lighter and xt60 plugs. Also put connectors so the frunk liner can be removed easily. The XT60 plug is the input that charges the Anker and the lighter plug is the output thatfeeds the 12v to the fridge.
Easy fix to have the refrigerator stay on and not shut down when the truck charges or outlets turn off:Love the solutions everyone is coming up with for this fridge. I picked up a Anker C300x for a decent price during prime days. I went with the frunk placement since I needed the under seat storage and I already had the buck converter installed for my underglow and DRL mods.
I wanted a clean look so purchased lighter and xt60 plugs. Also put connectors so the frunk liner can be removed easily. The XT60 plug is the input that charges the Anker and the lighter plug is the output thatfeeds the 12v to the fridge.
Fantastic alternative!This was so much easier:
Easy fix to have the refrigerator stay on and not shut down when the truck charges or outlets turn off:
Buy this Ecoflow power station.
Fits under rear seat. Run refrigerator plug to it. Run USB from this to the rear truck port.
This power station is one of few that can charge via USB.
Keep your accessory power on.
The USB port charges the power station at 50w.
The refrigerator use 40-50w when the compressor runs. The compressor does not run much unless the lid is open.
Pumping 50w in pumping 50w out. Refrigerator stays on.
$200 fix. No cutting wires. No running through the firewall to get continuous power. Don’t need a big or high capacity power station because it really doesn’t use much battery energy due to putting in the same amount the refrigerator outputs.
Absolutely the 2. The 3 can’t charge off usb and can’t take the full 48v input. It’s a downgrade in my opinion.
