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12V accessories wish list?

mongo

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48V to 12V converters are really popular. They are commonly used in golf carts.
Select one that self limits to 400W or ensure 12V devices side doesn't overload it. This can be an issue if dealing with a 12V surge battery (high load if depleted) .

The bigger question is probably devices that won't run on 18V, or specifically USB-C.
USB-C isn't 18V, Power Delivery (PD) negotiates voltage level with the device. Can be from 5V to 20V depending on source options. Of course, 20V gets the most power out (Tesla ports are only 65W though).

But then there's always the 120V plugs.
Yah, that's the highest power connection.
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Woodrick

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Select one that self limits to 400W or ensure 12V devices side doesn't overload it. This can be an issue if dealing with a 12V surge battery (high load if depleted) .


USB-C isn't 18V, Power Delivery (PD) negotiates voltage level with the device. Can be from 5V to 20V depending on source options. Of course, 20V gets the most power out (Tesla ports are only 65W though).


Yah, that's the highest power connection.
And there's current a thread on a blender overwhelming the 120V port. But charging a 12V problem is always a problem, even with a cigarette lighter.

Yes, 5, 9, 15, 20V, my point being that this is the primary way to run most accessories inside the vehicle.
 

mongo

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And there's current a thread on a blender overwhelming the 120V port.
For those not on that thread: The blender (Vitamix chopping ice) didn't overwhelm the port. The blender on an extension cord caused the port to disable after running for a minute.
Direct connection worked fine.

Yes, 5, 9, 15, 20V, my point being that this is the primary way to run most accessories inside the vehicle.
Oh, were you meaning 18V as the Y low voltage system and USB-C as separate things when you said
The bigger question is probably devices that won't run on 18V, or specifically USB-C.
?
 

Woodrick

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For those not on that thread: The blender (Vitamix chopping ice) didn't overwhelm the port. The blender on an extension cord caused the port to disable after running for a minute.
Direct connection worked fine.


Oh, were you meaning 18V as the Y low voltage system and USB-C as separate things when you said

?
What's the title of this thread?
What did the first post say?

I was basically saying that the biggest desire isn't for 12V devices that run on 48V (which is easily done) it's 12V devices that run on USB-C.
You know, USB-C, the standard that Tesla decided would be the 12V replacement.
 

mongo

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What's the title of this thread?
What did the first post say?

I was basically saying that the biggest desire isn't for 12V devices that run on 48V (which is easily done) it's 12V devices that run on USB-C.
You know, USB-C, the standard that Tesla decided would be the 12V replacement.
So did you typo 48V as 18V? I'm confused on what you were trying to convey in that post.

As to USB-C, there are 12V lighter type converter cables (though power limited)
https://www.amazon.com/QIUCABLE-USB-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B0CCCFMPH8
 


FlyinAndy

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Fodderof4

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12V is sub-optimal for high draw accessories like tire inflators. Get this 120V inflator, the Morrflate inflation hose system and don't look back. It positively kicks ass and puts those overly expensive 12V ViaAir inflators to shame! Fast and efficient.

20240709_194329sm.jpg
what size morrflate do you have? This is your normal air up process? From the truck bed?

thanks,
Bob
 

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HaulingAss

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what size morrflate do you have? This is your normal air up process? From the truck bed?

thanks,
Bob
I have the Quad+ for up to 155" wheelbase vehicles. I don't know if their next smaller size would work or not, I suspect it would be close.

Yes, this is the only way I air back up, from the tailgate. You could also use it air down. I haven't done that yet because I have a set of Staun deflators like these:

Amazon.com: Staun Tyre Deflators

They are adjustable from 15 to 55 psi but I have found them to be difficult to set accurately and somewhat inconsistent (probably has to do with variations in temperature, altitude and humidity) so I end up setting them to around 40 psi and, if I need lower pressures than that I bleed it out manually. I might start using the MorrFlate hose for deflation too, because it's more controllable and will ensure the pressure of every tire is the same.
 

Fodderof4

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thanks! I was confusing wheelbase and length in my mind. Duh. CT is 143” wheelbase not 223”….

yeah. Getting the hoses out for air down seems like a drag when you are itching to get on the trail.

Happy Trails!
 


Woodrick

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