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Cybertruck 48V standard receptable

TickTock

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Tesla chose not to offer a 48V receptacle. I kinda wished they did so folks would have a standard plug to add to 48V accessories. I am considering adding the 48V golf cart charging receptacle below to my frunk to use for inverters, air compressors, etc. This seems good because it is readily available, reasonably cheap, and terminals are nicely recessed to reduce chance of shorting. The mating plugs are a little bulkier than I'd like, though. Thoughts? Anyone have a better suggestion? I want to give it some thought so we don't end up with something stupid like the 12V cigarette lighter power plug or CCS.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Receptacle-Delta-Q-Battery-602529/dp/B097XPFW1G

Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 1725665843440-xu
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Crissa

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Tesla chose not to offer a 48V receptacle. I kinda wished they did so folks would have a standard plug to add to 48V accessories. I am considering adding the 48V golf cart charging receptacle below to my frunk to use for inverters, air compressors, etc. This seems good because it is readily available, reasonably cheap, and terminals are nicely recessed to reduce chance of shorting. The mating plugs are a little bulkier than I'd like, though. Thoughts? Anyone have a better suggestion? I want to give it some thought so we don't end up with something stupid like the 12V cigarette lighter power plug or CCS.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Receptacle-Delta-Q-Battery-602529/dp/B097XPFW1G
That's uhh, a high-amperage receptacle.

I'd expect you'd want something like an SAE connector or a Powerpole connector. Those are pretty standard for 12-48v uses. I use mostly SAE connectors but I was thinking of switching to Powerpoles.

Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable shopping


And yes, you can find flat receptacles for them.

Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 6160.0021
Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable powerwerx-panelpole1-panel-mount-housing-for-a-single-powerpole-connector-with-a-weather-tigh


-Crissa
 
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That's uhh, a high-amperage receptacle.

I'd expect you'd want something like an SAE connector or a Powerpole connector. Those are pretty standard for 12-48v uses. I use mostly SAE connectors but I was thinking of switching to Powerpoles.

shopping.webp


And yes, you can find flat receptacles for them.

6160.0021.webp
powerwerx-panelpole1-panel-mount-housing-for-a-single-powerpole-connector-with-a-weather-tigh...webp


-Crissa
I do like that last option. They have a "fingerproof" option, too, which looks like th terminals are better protected from accidental shorting.

https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-goal-zero-panel-mount-powerpole

Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 1725666681507-gq


Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 1725666812455-d9
 

Crissa

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I do like that last option. They have a "fingerproof" option, too, which looks like th terminals are better protected from accidental shorting.

https://powerwerx.com/panelpole-goal-zero-panel-mount-powerpole

1725666681507-gq.png


1725666812455-d9.png
Powerpole not only keeps the conductors hidden from fingers, they're an arbitrary number of conductors, too. They clip together.

Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable assorted-color-powerpole-connectors-kit_580


I was just recently introduced to them when I needed to run some 3 conductor solar charging sets.

-Crissa
 
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TickTock

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Hmmm. The roof power feed return is connected directly to chassis. However, the frunk power return actually goes to the controller. Both are 400W. I'd like to stick to 2 conductors, but if the return is not chassis gnd, then maybe a third terminal to chassis would be good. Anyone get confirmation on what the "LIN" wire is? I've seen several videos speculate it is for communication but I'm not so sure since all other communication is over twisted pair.


Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 1725669294310-8k
 


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Hmmm. The roof power feed return is connected directly to chassis. However, the frunk power return actually goes to the controller. Both are 400W. I'd like to stick to 2 conductors, but if the return is not chassis gnd, then maybe a third terminal to chassis would be good. Anyone get confirmation on what the "LIN" wire is? I've seen several videos speculate it is for communication but I'm not so sure since all other communication is over twisted pair.


1725669294310-8k.png
LIN is Local Interconnect Network, a single wire low speed (19.2 kbps max typ) bus.

G0002 is also the ground for the right side door modules and A pillar microphone.
 
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So I did end up ordering the fingerless powerpole receptacle. Looks like a easy install with the circular cutout. There is one aspect of it I don't like and that is these are generic connectors which can be used for any voltage up to 600V. Was hoping for something that is dedicated to 48V so when you see it you know what it is.
 

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Tesla chose not to offer a 48V receptacle. I kinda wished they did so folks would have a standard plug to add to 48V accessories. I am considering adding the 48V golf cart charging receptacle below to my frunk to use for inverters, air compressors, etc. This seems good because it is readily available, reasonably cheap, and terminals are nicely recessed to reduce chance of shorting. The mating plugs are a little bulkier than I'd like, though. Thoughts? Anyone have a better suggestion? I want to give it some thought so we don't end up with something stupid like the 12V cigarette lighter power plug or CCS.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Receptacle-Delta-Q-Battery-602529/dp/B097XPFW1G
That's a charge port, not a power port. The male pins are exposed.

As @Crissa suggests PowePoles are the way to go and are often used.

PowerPoles are unique in that there isn't a source/sink power orientation, like the socket you showed or a 120V AC socket. And no pins are ever exposed.

DO NOT USE the Red and Black ones, as they are universally accepted for 12V power.

Here's some alternative color code.
RIGrunner 4008 - 48V Positive - West Mountain Radio
 

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That's a charge port, not a power port. The male pins are exposed.

As @Crissa suggests PowePoles are the way to go and are often used.

PowerPoles are unique in that there isn't a source/sink power orientation, like the socket you showed or a 120V AC socket. And no pins are ever exposed.

DO NOT USE the Red and Black ones, as they are universally accepted for 12V power.

Here's some alternative color code.
RIGrunner 4008 - 48V Positive - West Mountain Radio
Somewhat tangential to the main topic but relevant for 48V system design, the manual for that fuse panel incorrectly calls out:
"If different fuse values are recommended for the equipment, they may be installed.
Note that the total current cannot exceed 40 Amperes. Any ATC/ATO automotive blade fuse or blade circuit breaker may be used."

While there are 58V rated fuses by Optifuse and others, standard ATC fuses are only good up to 32V.
 
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Powerpole not only keeps the conductors hidden from fingers, they're an arbitrary number of conductors, too. They clip together.

assorted-color-powerpole-connectors-kit_580.webp


I was just recently introduced to them when I needed to run some 3 conductor solar charging sets.

-Crissa
OK. I got it installed this morning. Hardest part was unplugging the first responder cut loop connector per the MV shut-off procedure. It was very tight. Unfortunately, my 48-->12 DC-DC converter was DOA so I was unable to actually use the compressor. Awaiting a replacement but I have 48-ish volts to work with now. [Update: working great now with the new DC-DC converter]

Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 1726255683977-7o

Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 1726255723374-gr
 
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If anyone else wants to do this, I thought I'd mention that the 48V power is only 16 AWG (the return is 14). I had purchase the 12-14 gauge terminals and ended up having to double the conductor over to get it to pass the pull test after crimping.
Tesla Cybertruck Cybertruck 48V standard receptable 1726257531349-6u
 

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did you drill holes through the plastic to install those connectors or what was there before? (I can't visualize my frunk interior...)
 
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did you drill holes through the plastic to install those connectors or what was there before? (I can't visualize my frunk interior...)
Took a deep breath and drilled using a step drill. I chose that location because it had a fair amount of space behind it.
 
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Got my replacement DC-DC converter this morning and happy to say everything works as hoped. I added about 7psi to all four tires without any breakers tripping. My air-compressor (Viair 450P) draw a max 280W.

One note: When I first plugged in the DC-DC converter, it did trip the breaker and I had to reset it from the cabin. I found that if I plug it in first and then turn on the power, the breaker doesn't trip. The DC-DC converter was barely warm (which makes sense - they claim >96% efficiency).
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