Door Puddle Lights and Interior Lights by Abstract Ocean

[CyberJay]

Hi all. Pete from AO here...to answer a few of the questions....

1. Cybertruck is incredibly fussy about what's plugged into it. For this reason, the internal bulbs are (for now) static colors. We might try an RGB version in the future, but not any time soon (RGB bulbs are always less bright, that's the downside of selectable color).
2. The puddle (door) locations continue to be extremely problematic. In our VIN (1000), nothing will work for long, other than the factory lights (which are the same p/n as Highland). For most customers, the ultra-bright lights will work in the door locations. These are dumb, 16v endpoints (no control wire), so I'm not sure why they're so fussy.
3. Projection lights in the doors, so far, have been a complete failure. This includes Tesla's own "TESLA" projection light they sell in China. The Cybertruck projection shown up thread was taken in a Highland, on the basis they use the same factory bulbs, but turns out that assumption wasn't a good one. Version 14 is due in the mail tomorrow to try {sigh}
4. Yes, you can find cheaper lights, but having sold these things for a decade, I am extremely confident our ultra-brights are the best quality available. They're made in Tiawan (in the world of LED's, Tiawan is very different to China) by a manufacturer that supplies millions of bulbs to a major German OEM. We offer a lifetime warranty, and I'm not worried doing that, the 2014 Model S loaner that I have from Tesla right now arrived with them installed - this is often the case, having sold close on half a million of them.

Appreciate the explanation!!

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[Travis64]

Looks good!

Looks like a pain to install idk if i would want to take it all apart

 

[Neo]

Hi all. Pete from AO here...to answer a few of the questions....

1. Cybertruck is incredibly fussy about what's plugged into it.

I spit out my coffee reading this, try lights for a 2004 Porsche Cayenne... I have around 40different purchases for lights that were guaranteed to work waiting for me to start a light bulb store now...

 

[TwiztOG43]

Hi all. Pete from AO here...to answer a few of the questions....

1. Cybertruck is incredibly fussy about what's plugged into it. For this reason, the internal bulbs are (for now) static colors. We might try an RGB version in the future, but not any time soon (RGB bulbs are always less bright, that's the downside of selectable color).
2. The puddle (door) locations continue to be extremely problematic. In our VIN (1000), nothing will work for long, other than the factory lights (which are the same p/n as Highland). For most customers, the ultra-bright lights will work in the door locations. These are dumb, 16v endpoints (no control wire), so I'm not sure why they're so fussy.
3. Projection lights in the doors, so far, have been a complete failure. This includes Tesla's own "TESLA" projection light they sell in China. The Cybertruck projection shown up thread was taken in a Highland, on the basis they use the same factory bulbs, but turns out that assumption wasn't a good one. Version 14 is due in the mail tomorrow to try {sigh}
4. Yes, you can find cheaper lights, but having sold these things for a decade, I am extremely confident our ultra-brights are the best quality available. They're made in Tiawan (in the world of LED's, Tiawan is very different to China) by a manufacturer that supplies millions of bulbs to a major German OEM. We offer a lifetime warranty, and I'm not worried doing that, the 2014 Model S loaner that I have from Tesla right now arrived with them installed - this is often the case, having sold close on half a million of them.

so just to be clear, the footwell lights are no issue but the puddle lights do?

the oem footwell lights are so dim

 

[WHIZZARD OF OZ]

Just got done installing these by @AO-Pete (Abstract Ocean). Love the look!

I have to say that some of the locations are a bit of a bear, but it wasn’t hard overall.

Your photos are Drop Bear Gorgeous!
I mean, how much can a KOALA BEAR?!?!

 

[WHIZZARD OF OZ]

Hi all. Pete from AO here...to answer a few of the questions....

1. Cybertruck is incredibly fussy about what's plugged into it. For this reason, the internal bulbs are (for now) static colors. We might try an RGB version in the future, but not any time soon (RGB bulbs are always less bright, that's the downside of selectable color).
2. The puddle (door) locations continue to be extremely problematic. In our VIN (1000), nothing will work for long, other than the factory lights (which are the same p/n as Highland). For most customers, the ultra-bright lights will work in the door locations. These are dumb, 16v endpoints (no control wire), so I'm not sure why they're so fussy.
3. Projection lights in the doors, so far, have been a complete failure. This includes Tesla's own "TESLA" projection light they sell in China. The Cybertruck projection shown up thread was taken in a Highland, on the basis they use the same factory bulbs, but turns out that assumption wasn't a good one. Version 14 is due in the mail tomorrow to try {sigh}
4. Yes, you can find cheaper lights, but having sold these things for a decade, I am extremely confident our ultra-brights are the best quality available. They're made in Tiawan (in the world of LED's, Tiawan is very different to China) by a manufacturer that supplies millions of bulbs to a major German OEM. We offer a lifetime warranty, and I'm not worried doing that, the 2014 Model S loaner that I have from Tesla right now arrived with them installed - this is often the case, having sold close on half a million of them.

This is all good! Looks like a great product!
To be Frunk, l can jump puddle lights!

 

[AO-Pete]

so just to be clear, the footwell lights are no issue but the puddle lights do?

the oem footwell lights are so dim

Correct. Our regular ultrabright lights work in all internal locations, and seem to work for most people in the doors as well (just not in ours, but I'm starting to think ours is jinxed). We've not been able to get any projection puddle lights working yet.

 

[cgladue]

Hi all. Pete from AO here...to answer a few of the questions....

1. Cybertruck is incredibly fussy about what's plugged into it. For this reason, the internal bulbs are (for now) static colors. We might try an RGB version in the future, but not any time soon (RGB bulbs are always less bright, that's the downside of selectable color).
2. The puddle (door) locations continue to be extremely problematic. In our VIN (1000), nothing will work for long, other than the factory lights (which are the same p/n as Highland). For most customers, the ultra-bright lights will work in the door locations. These are dumb, 16v endpoints (no control wire), so I'm not sure why they're so fussy.
3. Projection lights in the doors, so far, have been a complete failure. This includes Tesla's own "TESLA" projection light they sell in China. The Cybertruck projection shown up thread was taken in a Highland, on the basis they use the same factory bulbs, but turns out that assumption wasn't a good one. Version 14 is due in the mail tomorrow to try {sigh}
4. Yes, you can find cheaper lights, but having sold these things for a decade, I am extremely confident our ultra-brights are the best quality available. They're made in Tiawan (in the world of LED's, Tiawan is very different to China) by a manufacturer that supplies millions of bulbs to a major German OEM. We offer a lifetime warranty, and I'm not worried doing that, the 2014 Model S loaner that I have from Tesla right now arrived with them installed - this is often the case, having sold close on half a million of them.

when you say fussy does that mean can cause other issues with other systems in the truck if it decides it does not like the bulb or just that the bulb wont work ? just trying to gauge the risk of trying to install some lights and what the potential side effects would be.

 

[cgladue]

I spit out my coffee reading this, try lights for a 2004 Porsche Cayenne... I have around 40different purchases for lights that were guaranteed to work waiting for me to start a light bulb store now...

if they were guarenteed to work, and didnt work then why would you still keep them ? send them back

 

[L3it3R]

so just to be clear, the footwell lights are no issue but the puddle lights do?

the oem footwell lights are so dim

I haven’t experienced anything wrong with mine yet (crosses toes) ??

 

[AO-Pete]

when you say fussy does that mean can cause other issues with other systems in the truck if it decides it does not like the bulb or just that the bulb wont work ? just trying to gauge the risk of trying to install some lights and what the potential side effects would be.

No. I'm pretty confident the risk is zero.

The worst that could happen is you install a bulb in the door, it doesn't work. At this point, you should let the truck go through a sleep cycle, as that re-baselines all the virtual fuses and the related circuit load (this is true for any Tesla, and any light location). If it's still not working, then remove it, replace with the factory bulb. 50/50 if that lights immediately, but if it doesn't, it will after another sleep cycle. Thus far, that's been 100% true, across many years of doing this (not just my cars, but many, many support tickets too!).

Worth noting, a user-initiated reset (i.e. any of: scroll wheels, scroll wheels + brake, power-down and 16v disconnect) does not reset the virtual fuses. Overnight seems to be the only reliable way (this is assuming home location with sentry off). I'd love to know if it can be done from the service UI, but not found a way so far.

 

[Neo]

if they were guarenteed to work, and didnt work then why would you still keep them ? send them back

Honestly, laziness… I ordered them all mostly in a few orders , and then I wasn’t keeping them organized.
I feel the pain of a picky vehicle!

 

[TwiztOG43]

No. I'm pretty confident the risk is zero.

The worst that could happen is you install a bulb in the door, it doesn't work. At this point, you should let the truck go through a sleep cycle, as that re-baselines all the virtual fuses and the related circuit load (this is true for any Tesla, and any light location). If it's still not working, then remove it, replace with the factory bulb. 50/50 if that lights immediately, but if it doesn't, it will after another sleep cycle. Thus far, that's been 100% true, across many years of doing this (not just my cars, but many, many support tickets too!).

Worth noting, a user-initiated reset (i.e. any of: scroll wheels, scroll wheels + brake, power-down and 16v disconnect) does not reset the virtual fuses. Overnight seems to be the only reliable way (this is assuming home location with sentry off). I'd love to know if it can be done from the service UI, but not found a way so far.

This doesn’t have the same issues with the 3/Y where it can lead to cracked side windows due to the windows not rolling down and making contact with the window trim?

 

[AO-Pete]

This doesn’t have the same issues with the 3/Y where it can lead to cracked side windows due to the windows not rolling down and making contact with the window trim?

No. Also worth noting that the issue with 3/Y is because the ground for the entire door circuit runs through the bulb (no idea why). A good bulb will fail closed, as ours are designed and tested to do. A not-so-good bulb will fail closed, which, if the 3/Y door is open and the window is up, will cause it to roll all the way up, and then strike the trim on closing. It's a rare set of circumstances, but a good example of why cheapest doesn't equal best.

Regardless, CT doesn't operate that way, the door lights are on a stand-alone 16v spur off the main 48v circuit.

 

[cgladue]

No. I'm pretty confident the risk is zero.

The worst that could happen is you install a bulb in the door, it doesn't work. At this point, you should let the truck go through a sleep cycle, as that re-baselines all the virtual fuses and the related circuit load (this is true for any Tesla, and any light location). If it's still not working, then remove it, replace with the factory bulb. 50/50 if that lights immediately, but if it doesn't, it will after another sleep cycle. Thus far, that's been 100% true, across many years of doing this (not just my cars, but many, many support tickets too!).

Worth noting, a user-initiated reset (i.e. any of: scroll wheels, scroll wheels + brake, power-down and 16v disconnect) does not reset the virtual fuses. Overnight seems to be the only reliable way (this is assuming home location with sentry off). I'd love to know if it can be done from the service UI, but not found a way so far.

Any special discount codes for members of this forum available @AO-Pete ?

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