The best light for snow, fog and rain for just a few hundred dollars.

[Alexander S.]

As promised, the best light for snow, fog and rain for just a few hundred dollars.

The headlights work for 60 hours on one charge. The electrical circuit of the axillary headlights is not connected to the electrical circuit of the CT and is charged individually.

12V 200Ah LiFePO4 cost $254.65, works GREAT!!!

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[Alexander S.]

I thought about throwing out the factory bumper and installing a police one (Westin), but, unfortunately, this year the police bumper will not be on sale yet. Therefore, I temporarily installed these headlights at the factory. The original light is completely useless in fog, rain, snow.

 

[65SoYoLO]

Those PIA lights will be worthless in the fog also. You are just going to see a super bright white wall. But on a dark road, with critters hiding in the shadow, they are going to be perfect!

 

[mcm4ss]

cool cat! The Tsportsline front bumper uses a similar setup. They might be able to just sell the parts to make your 48v power lead charge that 12 v. Their kit comes with one and it works for my Morrimoto's

 

[Alexander S.]

Those PIA lights will be worthless in the fog also. You are just going to see a super bright white wall. But on a dark road, with critters hiding in the shadow, they are going to be perfect!

This is a Long Range Driving Beam 7-3/16” light , 18-watt every light.
Despite the small power output, they work better than the origina CT light thanks to the large reflectors.
Thanks to low beam, they also work well as fog lights and do not blind oncoming drivers.
The headlights remove and install within 2 minutes.
I bought similar 120-watt headlights for traveling on Vermont night roads in condition of extreme limited visibility.

 

[Alexander S.]

cool cat! The Tsportsline front bumper uses a similar setup. They might be able to just sell the parts to make your 48v power lead charge that 12 v. Their kit comes with one and it works for my Morrimoto's

T-Sportline is a Great Company.
I especially like T-Sportline prices on batteries for CT auxiliary light.
Well, I'm not an electrician, not an engineer, and not a mechanic, but a professor of medicine, and try to do Common Sense on everything.
The 48V battery is responsible for steering of the CT, and in case of front end damage, or any other short circuit, can cause the CT to become uncontrollable.
In my case, these two electrical circuits are not combined, and in case of collision, only the fuse on the light battery will blow out, and the car control will not change.

 

[BrockN]

This has me thinking. The OEM headlights are complete garbage IMHO and I will need to do something to make night driving less of an ordeal.

I was thinking about using the 120 Volt switching supply that gives me 13.8 volts DC, already in use for my VHF radio. Current supply would not be an issue for LED lights.

I've been thinking about trying a mobile antenna lip mount on the bottom edge of the frunk lid to check clearance and strength to support a light. It would be a no-holes solution that could be dismantled. But I should first take a good look around for a bumper lip driving light mount that might work on the frunk lip with a little (or no!) fabrication.

I'd actually like a high/low beam lamp that could be switched from inside. Low beam could be left on without causing incoming drivers any concern. Switch up to high beams when needed.

Your post has me thinking more seriously about this again.

 

[BrockN]

I should also note that there are devices designed for lithium iron phosphate batteries that allow you to pull 13.8 volts exactly while also charging the battery with the appropriate (higher voltage) charger...or solar array, etc. That would allow you to maintain a full charge when driving.

For that matter, a buck converter on the 48 Volt supply would give you the voltage and current you need, without any concerns. And you could switch it from the screen and eliminate the battery entirely.

 

[btcrealm]

Have you guys seen bearded tesla's 48v to 12v mod?

 

[hemiarch]

Have you guys seen bearded tesla's 48v to 12v mod?

I kind of like that wireless controller idea

 

[BrockN]

Have you guys seen bearded tesla's 48v to 12v mod?

I have. I thought that the time delay on the 48 Volt circuit was odd. And potentially annoying.

The Bluetooth switch (I think it's Bluetooth) is a smart way to control things.

I'm not big on the regulator box, assuming it actually is a regulator and not a buck converter. Wasteful, compared to a buck converter. The size of the heat sink tells the story!

I'm quite shocked that Tesla states that the 48 Volt circuit can range anywhere between 28 and 58 Volts though. That's an insanely wide range and could be a problem for some accessories.

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