CybertruckCo Solar Frunk, Urander Rack 2.0, Unplugged Performanece Side Molle Sail Panels, and TSportLine CTX Front Bumper

[CT_AZ_4x4]

Took me 3 days but I like the look and the additional functionality these upgrades will provide.

Just for everyone on th forum: you might want to do aftermarket bumpers because the stock bumpers are almost aluminum-can like. I was very surprised at the anemic structural support provided by the OEM bumpers. Very much just a few steps above an aluminum can for a bumper.

Very surprised.

But I added the Sportline CTX front bumper with a 12,000 pound capable Warn winch and 100 amp hour lithium ion battery to power the winch. I added the CybertruckCo frunk solar panels to recharge the lithium ion battery.

I’ve wired a 12 volt run from the lithium ion battery to the vault and another to my fridge at the front of the center console. My fridge will now never, ever shut off.

The 12 volt run to the vault is going to run my air compressor, my water heater, recharge my Bluetti Apex 300s / B300Ks, and provide camp/roof top tent lighting & phone & tablet charging, all controlled from a single Auxbeam control unit.

My lightbar is being held on by physical brackets that were meant for my Urander lightbar, but I’ve temporarily re-purposed them until I can metal-smith some better-fitting ones

I also metal-smithed my Unplugged Performance Molle side sail panels to work with my Urander rack 2.0, to provide more area for Molle-paneling stuff to the truck.

The TSportLine CTX front bumper includes front skid plates, then I have the Rival center plate & the Tesla Terrestrial Armor and rock sliders.

Next I am going to do the rear bumper. I think I might go with Unplugged Peformances’ as that has a swing-away rear tire holder. Does anyone know if the Unplugged Performance swing-away tire carrier covers up the rear camera?

My 3-day weeekend was full of 16 hour days getting these systems to intregrate. But I’m happy with the result!

Happy to answer any questions or make suggestions!

Sponsored

 

[Tom Dillon]

Took me 3 days but I like the look and the additional functionality these upgrades will provide.

Just for everyone on th forum: you might want to do aftermarket bumpers because the stock bumpers are almost aluminum-can like. I was very surprised at the anemic structural support provided by the OEM bumpers. Very much just a few steps above an aluminum can for a bumper.

Very surprised.

But I added the Sportline CTX front bumper with a 12,000 pound capable Warn winch and 100 amp hour lithium ion battery to power the winch. I added the CybertruckCo frunk solar panels to recharge the lithium ion battery.

I’ve wired a 12 volt run from the lithium ion battery to the vault and another to my fridge at the front of the center console. My fridge will now never, ever shut off.

The 12 volt run to the vault is going to run my air compressor, my water heater, recharge my Bluetti Apex 300s / B300Ks, and provide camp/roof top tent lighting & phone & tablet charging, all controlled from a single Auxbeam control unit.

My lightbar is being held on by physical brackets that were meant for my Urander lightbar, but I’ve temporarily re-purposed them until I can metal-smith some better-fitting ones

I also metal-smithed my Unplugged Performance Molle side sail panels to work with my Urander rack 2.0, to provide more area for Molle-paneling stuff to the truck.

The TSportLine CTX front bumper includes front skid plates, then I have the Rival center plate & the Tesla Terrestrial Armor and rock sliders.

Next I am going to do the rear bumper. I think I might go with Unplugged Peformances’ as that has a swing-away rear tire holder. Does anyone know if the Unplugged Performance swing-away tire carrier covers up the rear camera?

My 3-day weeekend was full of 16 hour days getting these systems to intregrate. But I’m happy with the result!

Happy to answer any questions or make suggestions!

Hi, I have similar setup. I have the CTX front bumper with a WARN XEON XD 12S winch and Rival front skid plates. I also have the UP rear bumper with the passenger side swing arm that has the spare tire mount. It does block the rear camera view. There is some adjustment with placement of the tire mount, but it will always block some of the camera view. Lowering the mounting position provides the least amount of occlusion, but then you are effecting your departure angle. Prior to FSD 13.2.9, FSD only complained about the occlusion and said it was degraded. Around version 13.2.7 the degraded messages turned to unavailable, which means no FSD. I did attempt to relocate the rear camera to my Urander rack and it worked for about 2,000 miles. Then DAS finally failed giving errors messages that the rear camera failed to self calibrate. I have since removed the swing arm and went back to carrying the spare in the vault. There is someone on the forum that has moved his rear camera down to the trailer hitch and I think it is still working.
Here’s a couple of thoughts for you about the UP rear bumper. It looks awesome, but it is heavy (+300lbs). The swing arm works great and it is well built. However, to drop your tailgate, you need enough space to completely swing out the arm. Not a big deal, but at superchargers or parking lots, you may not have enough space. I also needed to relocate my rear license plate due to the tire blocking most of the plate. I am thinking I may replace the UP bumper with the plastic OEM bumper to loose the weight for more armor. I have the CybertruckCo rock sliders and I really like them. They have taken some hits preventing damage to the stock battery cover.

 

[hemiarch]

Took me 3 days but I like the look and the additional functionality these upgrades will provide.

Just for everyone on th forum: you might want to do aftermarket bumpers because the stock bumpers are almost aluminum-can like. I was very surprised at the anemic structural support provided by the OEM bumpers. Very much just a few steps above an aluminum can for a bumper.

Very surprised.

But I added the Sportline CTX front bumper with a 12,000 pound capable Warn winch and 100 amp hour lithium ion battery to power the winch. I added the CybertruckCo frunk solar panels to recharge the lithium ion battery.

I’ve wired a 12 volt run from the lithium ion battery to the vault and another to my fridge at the front of the center console. My fridge will now never, ever shut off.

The 12 volt run to the vault is going to run my air compressor, my water heater, recharge my Bluetti Apex 300s / B300Ks, and provide camp/roof top tent lighting & phone & tablet charging, all controlled from a single Auxbeam control unit.

My lightbar is being held on by physical brackets that were meant for my Urander lightbar, but I’ve temporarily re-purposed them until I can metal-smith some better-fitting ones

I also metal-smithed my Unplugged Performance Molle side sail panels to work with my Urander rack 2.0, to provide more area for Molle-paneling stuff to the truck.

The TSportLine CTX front bumper includes front skid plates, then I have the Rival center plate & the Tesla Terrestrial Armor and rock sliders.

Next I am going to do the rear bumper. I think I might go with Unplugged Peformances’ as that has a swing-away rear tire holder. Does anyone know if the Unplugged Performance swing-away tire carrier covers up the rear camera?

My 3-day weeekend was full of 16 hour days getting these systems to intregrate. But I’m happy with the result!

Happy to answer any questions or make suggestions!

That is absolutely AWESOME J.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

Hi, I have similar setup. I have the CTX front bumper with a WARN XEON XD 12S winch and Rival front skid plates. I also have the UP rear bumper with the passenger side swing arm that has the spare tire mount. It does block the rear camera view. There is some adjustment with placement of the tire mount, but it will always block some of the camera view. Lowering the mounting position provides the least amount of occlusion, but then you are effecting your departure angle. Prior to FSD 13.2.9, FSD only complained about the occlusion and said it was degraded. Around version 13.2.7 the degraded messages turned to unavailable, which means no FSD. I did attempt to relocate the rear camera to my Urander rack and it worked for about 2,000 miles. Then DAS finally failed giving errors messages that the rear camera failed to self calibrate. I have since removed the swing arm and went back to carrying the spare in the vault. There is someone on the forum that has moved his rear camera down to the trailer hitch and I think it is still working.
Here’s a couple of thoughts for you about the UP rear bumper. It looks awesome, but it is heavy (+300lbs). The swing arm works great and it is well built. However, to drop your tailgate, you need enough space to completely swing out the arm. Not a big deal, but at superchargers or parking lots, you may not have enough space. I also needed to relocate my rear license plate due to the tire blocking most of the plate. I am thinking I may replace the UP bumper with the plastic OEM bumper to loose the weight for more armor. I have the CybertruckCo rock sliders and I really like them. They have taken some hits preventing damage to the stock battery cover.

Man thanks for all that info! I appreciate you! I think I’ll mount my spare tire under the Urander rack for now and see how that fairs. I really enjoy FSD especially road tripping so I think I’ll hold out for the TSportline rear bumper that is in pre-production right now…. Again, thanks Tom Dillon! That’s an awesome truck you have!

 

[Bridgeboy69]

My lightbar is being held on by physical brackets that were meant for my Urander lightbar, but I’ve temporarily re-purposed them until I can metal-smith some better-fitting ones

Can you elaborate on this? Yours looks like the OEM light bar which is glued onto the windshield:

BTW, I have both the OEM and Urander light bar on mine:

They put out the equivalent light of a small sun :

 

[hemiarch]

Can you elaborate on this? Yours looks like the OEM light bar which is glued onto the windshield:

BTW, I have both the OEM and Urandr light bar on mine:

They put out the light equivalent light of a small sun :

Very cool. How do you have the urander lightbar powered/wired? Same 48v roof feed as the oem bar?

 

[JUSTICEQD]

Took me 3 days but I like the look and the additional functionality these upgrades will provide.

Just for everyone on th forum: you might want to do aftermarket bumpers because the stock bumpers are almost aluminum-can like. I was very surprised at the anemic structural support provided by the OEM bumpers. Very much just a few steps above an aluminum can for a bumper.

Very surprised.

But I added the Sportline CTX front bumper with a 12,000 pound capable Warn winch and 100 amp hour lithium ion battery to power the winch. I added the CybertruckCo frunk solar panels to recharge the lithium ion battery.

I’ve wired a 12 volt run from the lithium ion battery to the vault and another to my fridge at the front of the center console. My fridge will now never, ever shut off.

The 12 volt run to the vault is going to run my air compressor, my water heater, recharge my Bluetti Apex 300s / B300Ks, and provide camp/roof top tent lighting & phone & tablet charging, all controlled from a single Auxbeam control unit.

My lightbar is being held on by physical brackets that were meant for my Urander lightbar, but I’ve temporarily re-purposed them until I can metal-smith some better-fitting ones

I also metal-smithed my Unplugged Performance Molle side sail panels to work with my Urander rack 2.0, to provide more area for Molle-paneling stuff to the truck.

The TSportLine CTX front bumper includes front skid plates, then I have the Rival center plate & the Tesla Terrestrial Armor and rock sliders.

Next I am going to do the rear bumper. I think I might go with Unplugged Peformances’ as that has a swing-away rear tire holder. Does anyone know if the Unplugged Performance swing-away tire carrier covers up the rear camera?

My 3-day weeekend was full of 16 hour days getting these systems to intregrate. But I’m happy with the result!

Happy to answer any questions or make suggestions!

Good stuff - I usually have to peruse the JL forums for this kind of stuff

I see you had the UP rear and CTX front. Curious what the deciding factor was with the CTX over the UP front bumper. Also weight?? I really wish the CTX didn't protrude as far. I like that the UP front is more true to fit of stock.

 

[Bridgeboy69]

Very cool. How do you have the urander lightbar powered/wired? Same 48v roof feed as the oem bar?

Yes. They both add up to less than the 48V @ 400W roof feed capacity so they work fine together. @mongo helped me with the electrical wizardry part .

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

Can you elaborate on this? Yours looks like the OEM light bar which is glued onto the windshield:

BTW, I have both the OEM and Urandr light bar on mine:

They put out the light equivelant light of a small sun :

Wow,that is BRILLIANTLY BRIGHT with both light bars. Clean install!

My OEM Lightbar started to peel off at the ends. So as a temporary fix I took the brackets for the Urander lightbar and laid them flat on their side and bolted them down at the front bolt closest to the windshield, so that 2 prongs of the Urander bracket hold the OEM Lightbar down. I’ve got some brackets that might work better but I need to reshape them using my anvil and heavy metal hammer, and I haven’thad the opportunity, yet.

If you zoom in on this photo you can see it a little better:

 

[hemiarch]

Yes. They both add up to less than the 400W roof feed capacity so they work fine. @mongo helped me with the electrical wizardry part .

Been thinking about doing the very same thing with a curved lightbar on the front bumper. Glad to know it works. So if you turn off the roof feed under outlets and mods, does the lightbar menu under “lights” remain? Can you run just the urander by turning the lightbar to 0% or how does it work?

 

[hemiarch]

Wow,that is BRILLIANTLY BRIGHT with both light bars. Clean install!

My OEM Lightbar started to peel off at the ends. So as a temporary fix I took the brackets for the Urander lightbar and laid them flat on their side and bolted them down at the front bolt closest to the windshield, so that 2 prongs of the Urander bracket hold the OEM Lightbar down. I’ve got some brackets that might work better but I need to reshape them using my anvil and heavy metal hammer, and I haven’thad the opportunity, yet.

If you zoom in on this photo you can see it a little better:

Wow. That is brilliant J. So what are the fittings you’re going to use to press down on the bar?

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

Wow. That is brilliant J. So what are the fittings you’re going to use to press down on the bar?

The brackets that need to be reshaped are kinda already in the general shape/attitude for possible use but need lengthened/extended. They were originally meant for use on a Ford Bronco for KC Lites.

But I need to blacksmith them to extend them.

https://www.kchilites.com/bronco-fo...objectID=1011&indexName=PROD_default_products

 

[hemiarch]

The brackets that need to be reshaped are kinda already in the general shape/attitude for possible use but need lengthened/extended. They were originally meant for use on a Ford Bronco for KC Lites.

But I need to blacksmith them to extend them.

https://www.kchilites.com/bronco-fo...objectID=1011&indexName=PROD_default_products

That makes sense

 

[Bridgeboy69]

So if you turn off the roof feed under outlets and mods, does the lightbar menu under “lights” remain?

I just checked, and the light bar menu is always there. You should be able to check this yourself as well. I think once the OEM light bar is installed the system knows it is there and changes the menus accordingly. Both the Outlets and Mods screen shows the roof feed as a "Light Bar" as well as the Lights screen. They are effectively just two ways to turn it on now:

Can you run just the urander by turning the lightbar to 0% or how does it work?

That is exactly how you do it, although I haven't tried it. I don't really see why I would turn off the OEM bar which uses way less power than the Urander light....the minimal frequency that I will ever need an off-road mini-sun is far and few between so I won't be worried about saving a few watts here or there....just let them both burn for a little while!

Per @mongo the Cybertruck does't even know the Urander light bar is there. So if the roof feed is on it will burn at 100%. But turning the OEM bar to 0% effectively will turn it off but the feed is still on. Logically thinking, I guess that means the controls for the OEM light bar are "on board" the light bar itself.

 

[jasonclu]

Took me 3 days but I like the look and the additional functionality these upgrades will provide.

Just for everyone on th forum: you might want to do aftermarket bumpers because the stock bumpers are almost aluminum-can like. I was very surprised at the anemic structural support provided by the OEM bumpers. Very much just a few steps above an aluminum can for a bumper.

Very surprised.

But I added the Sportline CTX front bumper with a 12,000 pound capable Warn winch and 100 amp hour lithium ion battery to power the winch. I added the CybertruckCo frunk solar panels to recharge the lithium ion battery.

I’ve wired a 12 volt run from the lithium ion battery to the vault and another to my fridge at the front of the center console. My fridge will now never, ever shut off.

The 12 volt run to the vault is going to run my air compressor, my water heater, recharge my Bluetti Apex 300s / B300Ks, and provide camp/roof top tent lighting & phone & tablet charging, all controlled from a single Auxbeam control unit.

My lightbar is being held on by physical brackets that were meant for my Urander lightbar, but I’ve temporarily re-purposed them until I can metal-smith some better-fitting ones

I also metal-smithed my Unplugged Performance Molle side sail panels to work with my Urander rack 2.0, to provide more area for Molle-paneling stuff to the truck.

The TSportLine CTX front bumper includes front skid plates, then I have the Rival center plate & the Tesla Terrestrial Armor and rock sliders.

Next I am going to do the rear bumper. I think I might go with Unplugged Peformances’ as that has a swing-away rear tire holder. Does anyone know if the Unplugged Performance swing-away tire carrier covers up the rear camera?

My 3-day weeekend was full of 16 hour days getting these systems to intregrate. But I’m happy with the result!

Happy to answer any questions or make suggestions!

Took me 3 days but I like the look and the additional functionality these upgrades will provide.

Just for everyone on th forum: you might want to do aftermarket bumpers because the stock bumpers are almost aluminum-can like. I was very surprised at the anemic structural support provided by the OEM bumpers. Very much just a few steps above an aluminum can for a bumper.

Very surprised.

But I added the Sportline CTX front bumper with a 12,000 pound capable Warn winch and 100 amp hour lithium ion battery to power the winch. I added the CybertruckCo frunk solar panels to recharge the lithium ion battery.

I’ve wired a 12 volt run from the lithium ion battery to the vault and another to my fridge at the front of the center console. My fridge will now never, ever shut off.

The 12 volt run to the vault is going to run my air compressor, my water heater, recharge my Bluetti Apex 300s / B300Ks, and provide camp/roof top tent lighting & phone & tablet charging, all controlled from a single Auxbeam control unit.

My lightbar is being held on by physical brackets that were meant for my Urander lightbar, but I’ve temporarily re-purposed them until I can metal-smith some better-fitting ones

I also metal-smithed my Unplugged Performance Molle side sail panels to work with my Urander rack 2.0, to provide more area for Molle-paneling stuff to the truck.

The TSportLine CTX front bumper includes front skid plates, then I have the Rival center plate & the Tesla Terrestrial Armor and rock sliders.

Next I am going to do the rear bumper. I think I might go with Unplugged Peformances’ as that has a swing-away rear tire holder. Does anyone know if the Unplugged Performance swing-away tire carrier covers up the rear camera?

My 3-day weeekend was full of 16 hour days getting these systems to intregrate. But I’m happy with the result!

Happy to answer any questions or make suggestions!

Looks like you're trying to charge your CT? Is that working with the Bluetti?

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