24 hour outlets on for refrigerator?

[MCraft99]

Thank you! That looks terrifying to me

You can also try a USB to barrel plug like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0989P9XM5
I'm going to be looking into this mod to keep my fridge on 24x7 too. I don't see any reason to run wiring to the frunk 48V power feed + step down inverter like the video & thread I linked.

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[Acitty]

Keep me posted on how you do it?

 

[k2c]

If you just want the refrigerator to be ON all the time and don’t want to make any wiring changes on the truck, here is what I’m using that’s working very well so far.

I have the anker c300 that trickle charges using usb-C and sits under the rear screen. The Anker has 110v output that powers the refrigerator (yes even after loosing efficiency converting ac to dc the system is able to self sustain). Only change I have is that I also use the 110v output under the rear infotainment screen to charge the Anker when I’m driving - this is because I use the usb-c from the refrigerator output to also charge my phone. So far the Anker is charged 100% and I have cold drinks from the fridge all the time. Makes a huge difference!

the settings that makes this work are
- keep accessory power ON (under outlets and mods)
-automatically turn on outlets
(no need to keep outlets on for 12 hrs)

 

[mongo]

Asterisk, I will say i have cabin overheat protection on as well to ensure the cabin doesn't get soo hot it shuts down the solix. Just be aware, tesla didn't put in the best usb-c ports and they can only supply about 60 watts, so if the fridge uses more than about 50wh per hour, the solix will eventually run out of power because it is only a 288 wh and loses in charging/conversion efficiency.

1 or 2 connected: 65W max each
5V@3A, 9V@3A, 15V@3A, [email protected]

3 connected: 42W max each
5V@3A, 9V@3A, [email protected], [email protected]

Not the greatest implementation of USB-PD ever...

 

[AlphaG]

https://www.cybertruckownersclub.co...console-usb-pd-charging-specifications.45967/

I've actually measured over 80w from the rear USB-C.

 

[mongo]

https://www.cybertruckownersclub.co...console-usb-pd-charging-specifications.45967/

I've actually measured over 80w from the rear USB-C.

The overcurrent trip limit gives it some margin, but a cable can only negotiate up to a 65W profile.

 

[AlphaG]

Yes but the device can negotiate more if available. Not guaranteed. I did measure it and the charge power was listed on my battery.

 

[mongo]

Yes but the device can negotiate more if available. Not guaranteed. I did measure it and the charge power was listed on my battery.

Interesting.
The device can't directly request a higher power profile than what the source advertises; However, it can set the mismatch flag and alert the source to its requirements.
Any idea if the truck published a 20V4A profile versus the battery just pulling 4A from the 65W profile?

 

[hemiarch]

If you just want the refrigerator to be ON all the time and don’t want to make any wiring changes on the truck, here is what I’m using that’s working very well so far.

I have the anker c300 that trickle charges using usb-C and sits under the rear screen. The Anker has 110v output that powers the refrigerator (yes even after loosing efficiency converting ac to dc the system is able to self sustain). Only change I have is that I also use the 110v output under the rear infotainment screen to charge the Anker when I’m driving - this is because I use the usb-c from the refrigerator output to also charge my phone. So far the Anker is charged 100% and I have cold drinks from the fridge all the time. Makes a huge difference!

the settings that makes this work are
- keep accessory power ON (under outlets and mods)
-automatically turn on outlets
(no need to keep outlets on for 12 hrs)

That’s exactly how i run the fridge in our model x. Also with a c300dc. The beauty of this thing is that it can charge off TWO usb-c ports.
I originally ran my CT fridge off a battery like this too but in another thread some other members raised fire risk concerns and I wanted to eliminate the battery.

 

[mongo]

That’s exactly how i run the fridge in our model x. Also with a c300dc. The beauty of this thing is that it can charge off TWO usb-c ports.
I originally ran my CT fridge off a battery like this too but in another thread some other members raised fire risk concerns and I wanted to eliminate the battery.

Note: the C300DC has dual USB-C charging ports, the C300 (with AC outlets) only has one. @k2c is using the AC version.

 

[hemiarch]

Note: the C300DC has dual USB-C charging ports, the C300 (with AC outlets) only has one. @k2c is using the AC version.

Got it. Good point. The dual input is a real advantage in this setting at least in the x where there isn’t an ac charging port.
you could also use the lighter socket but two usb-c’s run fairly cool and are reliably connected and ensure there is always more in than out.

 

[REM]

I use an anker solix c300 to keep my fridge on 24/7. The solix power station charges off of usb-c, solar/12vdc input, or a 120vac connection. So my c300 sits under my passenger seat, is plugged into one of the rear usb-c ports for charging, and runs the center console fridge that I have.

Absolutely this! A cooler with its own battery that can take power inputs from multiple sources.

I really wanted the Tesla branded frunk cooler, but was baffled to see that it didn't take v48 accessory power. I think they will eventually release one though, so I've held off from buying anything.

 

[hemiarch]

I dont have the technical chops or patience to do that mod myself!

It honestly requires zero technical chops. But patience, yes.
less so now that there are several tutorials on here.

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