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Electric Metal

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So as I wait for the first coat of Sharkhide to dry overnight for my second in the morning (Review is Coming), I tackled the inside of my doors. They looked piss poor from delivery and I have been putting it off because no one can see it when the doors are shut. But enough was enough, so I bit the bullet knowing it was going to be a tedious job from the start. But actually after a couple of products I said screw it and grabbed the Nevr-Dull. Wow! What a time saver.

Step 1: Tape off the rubber seals. (Figured out after the first door that it leaves a white residue on the rubber and you have to clean it off)
Step 2: Take a small piece of the wadding out, repeat SMALL PIECE! It goes a long way.
Step 3: Rub the product in a vertical motion. Overlapping slightly with each pass.
Step 4: Use Micro-Fiber towel to remove product. Turn your towel every so often not to reapply the product residue back to the area.
Step 5: Use a New, Clean, Micro-Fiber towel to finish off the “ Final Buff”.

Top half of door in video is before and bottom half is with Nevr-Dull.

Note: Enjoy the background music.

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Electric Metal

Electric Metal

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So my testing happens on a tailgate that I got from a dealer. It was blemished and replaced and I got a hold of it with a little shmooozing. So the results are from an actual Cybertruck, not a piece of stainless steel. So far I did the first coat. As with any coating, prep work is key. That is the tedious part. Whatever your “sealing over” is trapped below the surface, so a good cleaning is the first step. Application is pretty simple. Saturate a diaper ( which is the recommended application) and apply. The first thing I noticed is that you definitely have to use it in a well ventilated area. Stuff is pretty potent. Which leads to my next observation. Keep away from the plastic. Trying to get a hold of a fender flare to test what certain products do to the plastic. It goes on easy and is alot easier than Protectaclear. Not a knock to Protectaclear but that is my observation. They recommend at least two coats so I really can’t give a thorough evaluation till tomorrow. First coat dried to the touch in a couple minutes but I am following instructions as with every product I use to ensure a true and accurate assessment. Note: I am not a big fan of anything that needs Lacquer Thinner to remove for obvious reasons but my review will be on application, finish, and projected ease of cleaning. Will post tomorrow after second coat.
 

GFleck

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So my testing happens on a tailgate that I got from a dealer. It was blemished and replaced and I got a hold of it with a little shmooozing. So the results are from an actual Cybertruck, not a piece of stainless steel. So far I did the first coat. As with any coating, prep work is key. That is the tedious part. Whatever your “sealing over” is trapped below the surface, so a good cleaning is the first step. Application is pretty simple. Saturate a diaper ( which is the recommended application) and apply. The first thing I noticed is that you definitely have to use it in a well ventilated area. Stuff is pretty potent. Which leads to my next observation. Keep away from the plastic. Trying to get a hold of a fender flare to test what certain products do to the plastic. It goes on easy and is alot easier than Protectaclear. Not a knock to Protectaclear but that is my observation. They recommend at least two coats so I really can’t give a thorough evaluation till tomorrow. First coat dried to the touch in a couple minutes but I am following instructions as with every product I use to ensure a true and accurate assessment. Note: I am not a big fan of anything that needs Lacquer Thinner to remove for obvious reasons but my review will be on application, finish, and projected ease of cleaning. Will post tomorrow after second coat.
Also looking forward to hearing you thoughts and impressions after you finish the application.
 


HaulingAss

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They recommend at least two coats so I really can’t give a thorough evaluation till tomorrow. First coat dried to the touch in a couple minutes but I am following instructions as with every product I use to ensure a true and accurate assessment. Note: I am not a big fan of anything that needs Lacquer Thinner to remove for obvious reasons but my review will be on application, finish, and projected ease of cleaning. Will post tomorrow after second coat.
I'm afraid any type of plastic coating over the hard metal of the Cybertruck would be a diasaster for anyone who uses their trucks like I do. It lives a hard life, which is what attracted me to the hard frickin' steel to begin with. When your truck gets dirty, and then brushes up against vegetation, even at slow speeds, it grinds the abrasives in the dirt into the plastic.

This is after only 2 months use:
Tesla Cybertruck NEVR-DULL metal polish cleaner results…….. 20240613_074409adsm


Mirrors are known to take a lot of abuse, so they are molded out of relatively hard plastic. I'm glad they are not painted or coated with anything, or the scratches would look worse. Coating the hard frickin' steel with softer plastic coating is very unwise, IMO, unless your truck is just a garage queen that rarely gets dirty. Even then, the coating will fail due to UV exposure (even with UV inhibitors) and the results will not be pretty and the solution will not be easy.

I encourage people to think real hard before making a mistake they will regret. My truck has very fine scratches in the stainless panels, the reason they are so fine is because the steel is so hard. They will polish out very easily when I want to bring the truck back to a "new" look again, the same cannot be said for plastic coatings (and the scratches will be deeper and more numerous because these coatings are not as hard and durable as the hard frickin' steel.

Still, I'm interested to see your results, particularly longer term, so I'm not trying to shit on your experiment, I just want to warn people that all coatings eventually fail and then you have an even bigger job than the initial application to restore it.
 

CyberGus

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plastic coating over the hard metal of the Cybertruck would be a diasaster for anyone who uses their trucks like I do
I postulate a minmal overlap between “those that use coatings/wraps” and “those that venture off-road”
 

tmeyer3

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I postulate a minmal overlap between “those that use coatings/wraps” and “those that venture off-road”
I'll sub to this hypothesis. My CT is a regular creosote muncher, HFS is doing well, mirrors not so much. Tbh, I'm really tempted to just toss the mirrors and get the delete kit because I don't use them hardly ever, just finger clean your cameras on your morning walk around and I can see more than the mirrors can. Using the cameras takes practice, but the angle is so much wider
 

mhaze

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I'll sub to this hypothesis. My CT is a regular creosote muncher, HFS is doing well, mirrors not so much. Tbh, I'm really tempted to just toss the mirrors and get the delete kit because I don't use them hardly ever, just finger clean your cameras on your morning walk around and I can see more than the mirrors can. Using the cameras takes practice, but the angle is so much wider
It wouldn't be hard to make up a practice area, where there were spray lines on the ground say every five feet. Or use a vacant parking lot to practice.

I'm not talking about using such a method to get okay with the cameras only, but to get very, very precise with them...
 

scottyah

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I'm afraid any type of plastic coating over the hard metal of the Cybertruck would be a diasaster for anyone who uses their trucks like I do. It lives a hard life, which is what attracted me to the hard frickin' steel to begin with. When your truck gets dirty, and then brushes up against vegetation, even at slow speeds, it grinds the abrasives in the dirt into the plastic.

This is after only 2 months use:
20240613_074409adsm.jpg


Mirrors are known to take a lot of abuse, so they are molded out of relatively hard plastic. I'm glad they are not painted or coated with anything, or the scratches would look worse. Coating the hard frickin' steel with softer plastic coating is very unwise, IMO, unless your truck is just a garage queen that rarely gets dirty. Even then, the coating will fail due to UV exposure (even with UV inhibitors) and the results will not be pretty and the solution will not be easy.

I encourage people to think real hard before making a mistake they will regret. My truck has very fine scratches in the stainless panels, the reason they are so fine is because the steel is so hard. They will polish out very easily when I want to bring the truck back to a "new" look again, the same cannot be said for plastic coatings (and the scratches will be deeper and more numerous because these coatings are not as hard and durable as the hard frickin' steel.

Still, I'm interested to see your results, particularly longer term, so I'm not trying to shit on your experiment, I just want to warn people that all coatings eventually fail and then you have an even bigger job than the initial application to restore it.
Do you use the mirrors often? Sounds like you'd be a perfect use case for removing them. I'm very hesitant to fully trust cameras
 


tmeyer3

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Do you use the mirrors often? Sounds like you'd be a perfect use case for removing them. I'm very hesitant to fully trust cameras
I'm super nervous about removing them too, but I probably will once I get tired of the mangled look or they get broken.

I've been practicing just using the cameras and I've made a few interesting personal observations:
1. It's a big trade off, you get a significantly wider angle on camera but also significantly less visible distance.
2. The visible distance on camera is more than sufficient for what's immediately around you but it's disorienting at first and feels unsafe. In other words it more than sufficiently covers your sphere of influence.
3. If someone doesn't have their lights on at night, you have no hope of seeing them on the cameras. But with the way the mirrors darken at night this is also true on the mirrors.
4. The cameras cover your rear and side blind spots perfectly. You know, that spot where a car is right next to you and can't be seen in the mirrors, but not level enough with you to see them out of the side windows either. On more than one occasion I have turned on my signal to be surprised to find a low profile car or motorcycle right next to me. The red blind spot indicators are also very effective at warning you. This has boosted my confidence in the cameras a lot. It also encourages me to use my blinkers more often to check my surroundings if nothing else.
 

HaulingAss

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Do you use the mirrors often? Sounds like you'd be a perfect use case for removing them. I'm very hesitant to fully trust cameras
I use the side mirrors quite a bit, I can see more and make better sense of what I'm seeing when backing down a narrow trail. The hazards and dropoffs are more visible. The cameras are great to check for traffic during lane changes and stuff.
 

mdcoleman

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Back on track-I vouch for the Nevr-Dull. The real deal getting the door steel into top notch shape. Much appreciated, OP
 

HaulingAss

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I postulate a minmal overlap between “those that use coatings/wraps” and “those that venture off-road”
Perhaps true, but off-road is not the only manner in which plastic wrap is damaged or starts to look aged. Simple UV exposure will do that. The bare metal is impervious to UV exposure. Insect guts, sand and gravel abrasion, tree drippings and wet organics can all degrade plastic wraps and shorten the lifespan. You don't have to venture off-road to find that wraps are not as durable as the metal. To state the obvious, the sun shines everywhere. :cool: And that's why some liked wraps, it protected the paint from UV rays (and scratches and dings). On the Cybertruck those reasons are no longer valid.

I wouldn't take a wrap if it were free, but they cost $5-$8K and only last a few years! ? Still, some people like full wraps on their gleaming metal truck. I guess it's just another case of "whatever floats your boat". The more people who wrap their Cybertrucks, the more the gleaming bare metal of those who don't wrap will look special. :)
 

Mattkalin

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Thanks for this guys! My door jambs are filthy as well and I have been looking for a good product for this!
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