Installing Built-in Radar Detector and Laser Jammers ?

[Thejm]

Hey guys,

I took delivery of my beast (pictured below) about a month ago. Man I can't tell you how much I love it. So much fun, so practical, so well engineered.

This question isn't a lighting question but more of an electrical question so I thought I'd post it here. Mods, feel free to move it if needed.

For the past 10 or so years now, I have run built in radar detectors and laser jammers on all of my cars. They're pretty simple 12V components that usually live under the front dash and are ignition controlled. They also don't really draw a lot of power. I have a few questions on how best to do this in my Beast. I will probably have a shop do the actual install but don't trust most audio shops to know how to work on a Cybertruck (see my concerns below).

1. Where to get ignition controlled power?

In the past, tapping some circuits on previous cars that I've owned confuse the cars computer and cause weird errors to pop up because they're seeing an unusual power draw. This is my first Tesla and not sure if this is the case with their cars. Just want to make sure I (or a shop) doesn't cause me other issues by tapping a bad circuit. Any thoughts?​

I am aware of the front light bar hookup thats behind the frunk liner and also am aware that it's 48V. I don't plan to have a lower front light bar because I'm getting the light bar thats above the windshield. As a result, this seems like an ideal circuit to hook onto because it is expecting loads and won't cause those issues. My first question is whether I can set this to be ignition controlled (or whatever the equivalent is on a Tesla)? I want my equipment to come on when I drive and turn off when I leave without me having to act manually. The other advantage to using this circuit is that I can turn it off or on manually via the touch screen if the need arose. Are there any downsides to using this circuit? If there is some other issue with this circuit do you have a recommendation for another that you have used and works reliably? Where do most people power their 12V toys off of?​

​

2. One of the other aspects that I want to make sure and get right is the wiring passthrough from the outside to inside the cabin. Usually this is through the 'firewall'. Any tricks here? The reason that I'll need to do this is to put the radar detector controller in a place where I can see it and interact with it. Have any of you ever done this with your Cybertrucks? Any tricks or possible paths? My concern is making sure it's very clean and preferably higher-up in case of any water. Obviously I will silicone any small holes that I create.

In short, this is a very expensive, very nice dream car for me. I want to take my time on this and ensure that I am diligent in getting all the details right. Thanks in advance for your advice. If you have any other general tips, please post them below!

BTW for those who are curious. the specs on the wrap are:
3M Matte Deep Black
15% Stratos tint all around; 70% on front windshield; no tint on roof glass
Ceramic Coating

Sponsored

 

[tmeyer3]

My first question is whether I can set this to be ignition controlled (or whatever the equivalent is on a Tesla)?

From experience wiring my radios multiple times, I'd recommend using the 120vac sources for "ignition" controlled power. I wanted that on my ham and I ended up wiring 48vdc, then swapped it back to 120vac because it turns on/off very reliably when I get in and out of the truck. I don't really care about the little losses from running the inverter if it works! On the 48v system I had to manually turn it on each drive and it would stay on for a long time after exiting unless I manually turned it back off.

Where do most people power their 12V toys off of?

For me, it depends. Like I said earlier, I prefer the 120vac sources for radios and things that I want to turn on automatically. You can access the center console switch wiring relatively easily too!
For accessory lights, 12v fridge, etc I've been very content with the 48vdc source in the frunk!

 

[MrTilbur]

Hey guys,

I took delivery of my beast (pictured below) about a month ago. Man I can't tell you how much I love it. So much fun, so practical, so well engineered.

This question isn't a lighting question but more of an electrical question so I thought I'd post it here. Mods, feel free to move it if needed.

For the past 10 or so years now, I have run built in radar detectors and laser jammers on all of my cars. They're pretty simple 12V components that usually live under the front dash and are ignition controlled. They also don't really draw a lot of power. I have a few questions on how best to do this in my Beast. I will probably have a shop do the actual install but don't trust most audio shops to know how to work on a Cybertruck (see my concerns below).

1. Where to get ignition controlled power?

In the past, tapping some circuits on previous cars that I've owned confuse the cars computer and cause weird errors to pop up because they're seeing an unusual power draw. This is my first Tesla and not sure if this is the case with their cars. Just want to make sure I (or a shop) doesn't cause me other issues by tapping a bad circuit. Any thoughts?​

I am aware of the front light bar hookup thats behind the frunk liner and also am aware that it's 48V. I don't plan to have a lower front light bar because I'm getting the light bar thats above the windshield. As a result, this seems like an ideal circuit to hook onto because it is expecting loads and won't cause those issues. My first question is whether I can set this to be ignition controlled (or whatever the equivalent is on a Tesla)? I want my equipment to come on when I drive and turn off when I leave without me having to act manually. The other advantage to using this circuit is that I can turn it off or on manually via the touch screen if the need arose. Are there any downsides to using this circuit? If there is some other issue with this circuit do you have a recommendation for another that you have used and works reliably? Where do most people power their 12V toys off of?​

​

2. One of the other aspects that I want to make sure and get right is the wiring passthrough from the outside to inside the cabin. Usually this is through the 'firewall'. Any tricks here? The reason that I'll need to do this is to put the radar detector controller in a place where I can see it and interact with it. Have any of you ever done this with your Cybertrucks? Any tricks or possible paths? My concern is making sure it's very clean and preferably higher-up in case of any water. Obviously I will silicone any small holes that I create.

In short, this is a very expensive, very nice dream car for me. I want to take my time on this and ensure that I am diligent in getting all the details right. Thanks in advance for your advice. If you have any other general tips, please post them below!

BTW for those who are curious. the specs on the wrap are:
3M Matte Deep Black
15% Stratos tint all around; 70% on front windshield; no tint on roof glass
Ceramic Coating

What system are you using/looking at having installed? I have the Radenso Ultimate jammer/detector defense in my Suburban and it’s beautifully integrated and so far undefeated, so I need to add one to my CT! I didn’t even realize it wasn’t fully stock equipment until I got home from the dealer buying the ‘burb, and dug around the vehicle more, finding the directional detectors and jammer and figuring out what the small display panel was for. Love it, and looking to add one to CT that looks naturally integrated as well. Following this!

Great looking wrap btw!

 

[HelfFL]

Hey guys,

I took delivery of my beast (pictured below) about a month ago. Man I can't tell you how much I love it. So much fun, so practical, so well engineered.

This question isn't a lighting question but more of an electrical question so I thought I'd post it here. Mods, feel free to move it if needed.

For the past 10 or so years now, I have run built in radar detectors and laser jammers on all of my cars. They're pretty simple 12V components that usually live under the front dash and are ignition controlled. They also don't really draw a lot of power. I have a few questions on how best to do this in my Beast. I will probably have a shop do the actual install but don't trust most audio shops to know how to work on a Cybertruck (see my concerns below).

1. Where to get ignition controlled power?

In the past, tapping some circuits on previous cars that I've owned confuse the cars computer and cause weird errors to pop up because they're seeing an unusual power draw. This is my first Tesla and not sure if this is the case with their cars. Just want to make sure I (or a shop) doesn't cause me other issues by tapping a bad circuit. Any thoughts?​

I am aware of the front light bar hookup thats behind the frunk liner and also am aware that it's 48V. I don't plan to have a lower front light bar because I'm getting the light bar thats above the windshield. As a result, this seems like an ideal circuit to hook onto because it is expecting loads and won't cause those issues. My first question is whether I can set this to be ignition controlled (or whatever the equivalent is on a Tesla)? I want my equipment to come on when I drive and turn off when I leave without me having to act manually. The other advantage to using this circuit is that I can turn it off or on manually via the touch screen if the need arose. Are there any downsides to using this circuit? If there is some other issue with this circuit do you have a recommendation for another that you have used and works reliably? Where do most people power their 12V toys off of?​

​

2. One of the other aspects that I want to make sure and get right is the wiring passthrough from the outside to inside the cabin. Usually this is through the 'firewall'. Any tricks here? The reason that I'll need to do this is to put the radar detector controller in a place where I can see it and interact with it. Have any of you ever done this with your Cybertrucks? Any tricks or possible paths? My concern is making sure it's very clean and preferably higher-up in case of any water. Obviously I will silicone any small holes that I create.

In short, this is a very expensive, very nice dream car for me. I want to take my time on this and ensure that I am diligent in getting all the details right. Thanks in advance for your advice. If you have any other general tips, please post them below!

BTW for those who are curious. the specs on the wrap are:
3M Matte Deep Black
15% Stratos tint all around; 70% on front windshield; no tint on roof glass
Ceramic Coating

If you are on the west coast of Florida and don't have to DIY, contact Auto Mods in Sarasota. I never got to use them as I am too far away, but they came highly recommended for anything radar/laser related.

 

[dartfork]

Since the cybertruck is so angular, I wonder how naturally stealthy it is to radar. Testing that idea would be a good idea for a video.

 

[Thejm]

I'm in the process of designing a 24v system for lighting and a 12v system for misc items. I plan to have two plates laser cut, powder coated and mounted in the frunk on the left and right panels. I'll be putting small holes and using standoffs then covering with a smoked (tinted) laser cut plexiglass.

The 24v is for two light bars and ditch lights. Hella Black magic 50" (roof) and 40" (below frunk). The cube lights also hella will be mounted topside of the frunk. The Hella can operate from 10v to 30v. The 8 gang ( https://t.ly/y2SgV ) operates via a remote panel so no wires through the "firewall". The CB is wireless also.

The whole world except the cybertruck uses 12v. Provisions could have been made to accomodate adding such things rather than having to resort to being sudo engineers. From what I've heard and will find out is the frunk 48v remains energized (switched on) and the roof 48v does not.

The CT schematics can be found at this link:
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...e/prog-242/interactive/html/index.html?page=0

This is very helpful. thank you and good luck with your install. I think its going to look very clean (and hidden)

 

[Thejm]

From experience wiring my radios multiple times, I'd recommend using the 120vac sources for "ignition" controlled power. I wanted that on my ham and I ended up wiring 48vdc, then swapped it back to 120vac because it turns on/off very reliably when I get in and out of the truck. I don't really care about the little losses from running the inverter if it works! On the 48v system I had to manually turn it on each drive and it would stay on for a long time after exiting unless I manually turned it back off.

This is exactly what I was afraid of. Glad you pointed that out. So, to make sure that I am understanding you correctly, you used the 48V hookup thats behind the Frunk to power your radio and had those results?

Once you switched to the 120V AC, did you just manually plug an inverter into, say the glovebox outlet to power your radio?

 

[Thejm]

What system are you using/looking at having installed? I have the Radenso Ultimate jammer/detector defense in my Suburban and it’s beautifully integrated and so far undefeated, so I need to add one to my CT! I didn’t even realize it wasn’t fully stock equipment until I got home from the dealer buying the ‘burb, and dug around the vehicle more, finding the directional detectors and jammer and figuring out what the small display panel was for. Love it, and looking to add one to CT that looks naturally integrated as well. Following this!

Great looking wrap btw!

I was heavily involved in understanding how each LIDAR gun works and how best to combat it. That knowledge led me to the Antilaser Priority System. Last that I checked, it's the only one that can reliably defeat the Dragon if installed correctly.

 

[Thejm]

Since the cybertruck is so angular, I wonder how naturally stealthy it is to radar. Testing that idea would be a good idea for a video.

With most modern RADAR and LIDAR systems, the angularity of the truck won't affect the performance of the equipment the LEOs are using.

 

[tmeyer3]

This is exactly what I was afraid of. Glad you pointed that out. So, to make sure that I am understanding you correctly, you used the 48V hookup thats behind the Frunk to power your radio and had those results?

Once you switched to the 120V AC, did you just manually plug an inverter into, say the glovebox outlet to power your radio?

Correct! For the case of powering on/off based on presence in the vehicle, the 110/120vac system was much more convenient.

I used this little 100W rectifier that I could mount right next to the radio. It has two 12v connections available and I only needed around 50W/70W peak, so it was just right for my ham equipment.

 

[Thejm]

Correct! For the case of powering on/off based on presence in the vehicle, the 110/120vac system was much more convenient.

I used this little 100W rectifier that I could mount right next to the radio. It has two 12v connections available and I only needed around 50W/70W peak, so it was just right for my ham equipment.

Did you have to pass any wires through the front firewall? If so, what route did you take?

 

[tmeyer3]

Did you have to pass any wires through the front firewall? If so, what route did you take?

No, I haven't done this yes. My radio (you do need a license to use this one) is headless and lives under the frunk tray. It uses Bluetooth to connect to the "head" control module--my phone. I can also connect it to the trucks bt audio if I want, but I prefer the HT. I'm a cable cutter ?

 

[MICyber]

Hey guys,

I took delivery of my beast (pictured below) about a month ago. Man I can't tell you how much I love it. So much fun, so practical, so well engineered.

This question isn't a lighting question but more of an electrical question so I thought I'd post it here. Mods, feel free to move it if needed.

For the past 10 or so years now, I have run built in radar detectors and laser jammers on all of my cars. They're pretty simple 12V components that usually live under the front dash and are ignition controlled. They also don't really draw a lot of power. I have a few questions on how best to do this in my Beast. I will probably have a shop do the actual install but don't trust most audio shops to know how to work on a Cybertruck (see my concerns below).

1. Where to get ignition controlled power?

In the past, tapping some circuits on previous cars that I've owned confuse the cars computer and cause weird errors to pop up because they're seeing an unusual power draw. This is my first Tesla and not sure if this is the case with their cars. Just want to make sure I (or a shop) doesn't cause me other issues by tapping a bad circuit. Any thoughts?​

I am aware of the front light bar hookup thats behind the frunk liner and also am aware that it's 48V. I don't plan to have a lower front light bar because I'm getting the light bar thats above the windshield. As a result, this seems like an ideal circuit to hook onto because it is expecting loads and won't cause those issues. My first question is whether I can set this to be ignition controlled (or whatever the equivalent is on a Tesla)? I want my equipment to come on when I drive and turn off when I leave without me having to act manually. The other advantage to using this circuit is that I can turn it off or on manually via the touch screen if the need arose. Are there any downsides to using this circuit? If there is some other issue with this circuit do you have a recommendation for another that you have used and works reliably? Where do most people power their 12V toys off of?​

​

2. One of the other aspects that I want to make sure and get right is the wiring passthrough from the outside to inside the cabin. Usually this is through the 'firewall'. Any tricks here? The reason that I'll need to do this is to put the radar detector controller in a place where I can see it and interact with it. Have any of you ever done this with your Cybertrucks? Any tricks or possible paths? My concern is making sure it's very clean and preferably higher-up in case of any water. Obviously I will silicone any small holes that I create.

In short, this is a very expensive, very nice dream car for me. I want to take my time on this and ensure that I am diligent in getting all the details right. Thanks in advance for your advice. If you have any other general tips, please post them below!

BTW for those who are curious. the specs on the wrap are:
3M Matte Deep Black
15% Stratos tint all around; 70% on front windshield; no tint on roof glass
Ceramic Coating

Here is a mount for an antenna:

https://marsag.co/products/tesla-cybertruck-mars™-expedition-accessory-mount-2

 

[JUSTICEQD]

Did you end up going with the RUE 2 or similar setup here? Any learnings/takeaways?

 

[Thejm]

Did you end up going with the RUE 2 or similar setup here? Any learnings/takeaways?

Yea, my set up is complete and looks great. Give me a day or 2 and I'll post the details.

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