Bridgeboy69
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I have had this issue since I bought the truck almost a year ago. I have brought it to the service center twice for a fix. The first time they simply stuck double sided tape on it, which did not work at all, and it literally fell back down as soon as I picked my truck up from them. I have just been dealing with it hanging down until I got fed up and recently brought it back in again. This time, they updated my service ticket to bring it back in a third time after they ordered a new windshield replacement since that assembly is permanently attached to the windshield and that was all they could come up with to fix it. Well, both me and the service advisor thought that was stupid as hell to fix a 1-cent plastic clip's failure to hold, but they didn't know what else to do. So, I put some thought into it, especially since my windshield is also tinted with high-quality cermic tint, and Tesla does not reimburse for that.
And I figured it out. I simply heated the female receptical where the clip connects with a heat gun, squeezed it with some pliers, and now the connection is solid as a rock. I notified the service team to cancel the new windshield. See below pics.
The problem:
The service center's 1st attempted "OEM" double sided tape fix
:
What the white plastic male clips look like with console removed:
What the overhead female recptacles looked like on the overhead console:
Heating the bottom receptacle with heatgun:
Squeeze with pliers (I used channel-locks) and allowed to cool:
New, tighter, receptacle
(EDIT 2: don't squeeze too hard and don't make it quite as concaved as I did here on my first try. My console is now stuck on there really, really well, and would not pop back off with me squeezing on it with my fingers and pulling is hard as I can. If I ever need to get this thing off again it may taking prying it with a tool to get back off (and possibly breaking some plastic if not careful). But I'm leaving it alone for now since there is no need for it to come off at the moment.
If you look at them, they are convex the way they are stock. Perhaps making it straight, with no curve, could be the sweet spot of not too loose, and not too tight. That should be enough to solve the issue without creating a new issue of having a tough time to get it back off.)
I left the top receptacle alone since that was not causing the problem:
It is now snapped back into place and solid as a rock.
Windshield repacement diverted.
EDIT: For anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
And I figured it out. I simply heated the female receptical where the clip connects with a heat gun, squeezed it with some pliers, and now the connection is solid as a rock. I notified the service team to cancel the new windshield. See below pics.
The problem:
The service center's 1st attempted "OEM" double sided tape fix
:
What the white plastic male clips look like with console removed:
What the overhead female recptacles looked like on the overhead console:
Heating the bottom receptacle with heatgun:
Squeeze with pliers (I used channel-locks) and allowed to cool:
New, tighter, receptacle
(EDIT 2: don't squeeze too hard and don't make it quite as concaved as I did here on my first try. My console is now stuck on there really, really well, and would not pop back off with me squeezing on it with my fingers and pulling is hard as I can. If I ever need to get this thing off again it may taking prying it with a tool to get back off (and possibly breaking some plastic if not careful). But I'm leaving it alone for now since there is no need for it to come off at the moment.
If you look at them, they are convex the way they are stock. Perhaps making it straight, with no curve, could be the sweet spot of not too loose, and not too tight. That should be enough to solve the issue without creating a new issue of having a tough time to get it back off.)
I left the top receptacle alone since that was not causing the problem:
It is now snapped back into place and solid as a rock.
Windshield repacement diverted.
EDIT: For anyone doing this, you don't have to heat that plastic too much. Don't go melting things with all those wires and electronics nearby. I set my heat gun to a moderate temperature that I could feel on my hand without scorching me, and I used that narrow attachment to blow the air mostly inside the female component. It's the inside walls of the receptacle that you want to be mallable so they "stretch" when you squeeze with the pliers.
And for anyone who doesn't have a heat gun, this one on Amazon is cheap and is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S5QMFG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
I originally bought it to fix a ding in my bumper where the approved Tesla Collision Center wanted to replace the whole bumper for like $2K. You can't even tell it was dinged anymore.
Sponsored
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