Can we talk Skid Plates?

S.H.Peterson

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FWIW...having had beaten a lot of vehicles half to death:

I would have 3 levels of protective plates:
For city-interstate-light country use = UHMW Polyethylene about 1/4 thick to protect from FOD damage.
For Overland and light offroad use = Rhino liner coated aluminum about 1/4 inch thick
For the zombie apocalypse, rock crawing and heavy woods = 1/4 inch thick high nickel Stainless Steel with stamped in reinforcing ribs and it would include a set of full lentgh rock slider bars in stainless as well.

Pushbar... gotta have a pushbar...yeah
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Two items of concern. Rocks flipping up while driving on dirt/gravel roads potential damage to battery and the frunk being impacted by a deer or other large creature. I could see some beef on such as a skid plate and a brush bar (if that is what they are called) to protect the frunk from such an impact.
 

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FWIW...having had beaten a lot of vehicles half to death:

I would have 3 levels of protective plates:
For city-interstate-light country use = UHMW Polyethylene about 1/4 thick to protect from FOD damage.
For Overland and light offroad use = Rhino liner coated aluminum about 1/4 inch thick
For the zombie apocalypse, rock crawing and heavy woods = 1/4 inch thick high nickel Stainless Steel with stamped in reinforcing ribs and it would include a set of full lentgh rock slider bars in stainless as well.

Pushbar... gotta have a pushbar...yeah
That would be a lot of weight, I am running 3/16 steel plate in strategic locations and it rarely gets bent.

Edit: a 5x8x.25 steel plate weighs over 400 lbs.
 

S.H.Peterson

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That would be a lot of weight, I am running 3/16 steel plate in strategic locations and it rarely gets bent.

Edit: a 5x8x.25 steel plate weighs over 400 lbs.

On the stainless plates, yes, that would be additional weight. However, real range affectation come more for aerodynamics more than weight. Especially at steady- state cruise. If you are where you REALLY need plates, the weight takes a back seat to protection levels. Also, admittedly, I overbuild. I am rarely disappointed by doing that. A sharp rock through the battery pack will HUGELY diminish mileage. Not being a smarty...just saying
 
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On the stainless plates, yes, that would be additional weight. However, real range affectation come more for aerodynamics more than weight. Especially at steady- state cruise. If you are where you REALLY need plates, the weight takes a back seat to protection levels. Also, admittedly, I overbuild. I am rarely disappointed by doing that. A sharp rock through the battery pack will HUGELY diminish mileage. Not being a smarty...just saying
You have definitely given me something and some stuff to think about. Much appreciated for sure.

I was thinking stamped/perforated like those big quarter size holes….. then I thought of how much mud and crap would get stuck in between. LighteR weight but a B**** to clean.

Definitely getting the idea juices flowing tho
 


S.H.Peterson

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You have definitely given me something and some stuff to think about. Much appreciated for sure.

I was thinking stamped/perforated like those big quarter size holes….. then I thought of how much mud and crap would get stuck in between. LighteR weight but a B**** to clean.

Definitely getting the idea juices flowing tho
I appreceiate that and I LOVE to design and buld stuff..
An Idea would be to use small stand-off mounts to give about a 1/2 gap between the plate and battery pack so it could be hosed out and it would give more crush gap in the event of an impact . That or make quick release front mounts and a hinge at the back so it could swing down like a trapdoor effect for easy cleaning.
 
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I appreceiate that and I LOVE to design and buld stuff..
An Idea would be to use small stand-off mounts to give about a 1/2 gap between the plate and battery pack so it could be hosed out and it would give more crush gap in the event of an impact . That or make quick release front mounts and a hinge at the back so it could swing down like a trapdoor effect for easy cleaning.
I love to design and build too!!!

did we just become best friends?
 

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I appreceiate that and I LOVE to design and buld stuff..
An Idea would be to use small stand-off mounts to give about a 1/2 gap between the plate and battery pack so it could be hosed out and it would give more crush gap in the event of an impact . That or make quick release front mounts and a hinge at the back so it could swing down like a trapdoor effect for easy cleaning.
I would make it swing the other way... if something were to happen and it came loose, then it could act as a polevault or leverarm to do very bad things... if it was hinged at the front, it would just scrape on the ground if it came loose.
 


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Lives2TruckAround

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Please post when you find a solution.

If you go with a simple two gear design and need to run the motor backwards the only problem is the oil pump impellers will need to be swapped out to be able to pump in the other direction. Contact Electric classic Cars for the supplier.

whatever you just said…. This is what i heard
 

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There are two types of extreme off-roading:

The "I want to be able to get to the most remote scenic vistas in the back country and sometimes there's not an easy route in." type.

And the "I want to try to get my rig over the most difficult obstacles possible" type.

Group 1 often drives their 4x4's cross country to the mountains for vacation, so need something comfortable and efficient enough for a long road trip, but group 2s either choose to live in 4x4 country so it's a short hop to the trail, or they trailer their purpose built, non-street legal rock-crawler to the trail head, bring extra axles, tie rods and drag links and expect something to break. They'll divert off the main trail to spend a half an hour working their way over a tough obstacle, while the rest of their caravan jumps up ahead and waits until they join the main trail again.

If you're group 1, the factory protection is probably adequate, you'll just have to be careful. I fall into this group and fantasize only about renting some huge knobby bead lock tires in Moab just so I don't get stuck in mud or sand somewhere.

If you're group 2, you can accept adding an extra ton of tires, plates, reinforcing sleeves, etc. Range and highway comfort is not your concern. I considered getting in this group one night and started to reserve a second CYBERTRUCK that I could kit out and tow with my road CYBERTRUCK to the trailhead. I sobered up before punching the "reserve" button. I am looking forward to seeing the first person who tows a CYBERCRAWLER with a CYBERTRUCK!!! 🤩
 
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Rivian offers an optional steel skid plate that must be installed at assembly. I hope Tesla does better with a high quality standard synthetic solution.

I also hope that Tesla has considered how third party rock rails could be installed. And the front winch.

Rivian markets offroad but didn't design for standard offroad needs. Hopefully Tesla has taken the extra time since CT announcement to get some of these details right.
 

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whatever you just said…. This is what i heard


There are two possible configurations;
One that maintains the rotation of the axles to drive the wheels forwards (see above) the other requires the drive shafts to be geared in what would normally be reverse.(see Bollinger B1 portals below).

Tesla Cybertruck Can we talk Skid Plates? 9E5F1CB2-F0B3-437D-B1FD-0BF4CF690637


To run the Tesla motor in reverse (if using a two gear portal hub gear set) for extended periods the impeller that lubricates the motor and gearbox would need to be replaced to to adequately pump oil through the system.

Tesla Cybertruck Can we talk Skid Plates? D7A88AFC-6865-4E54-AACF-877995FD8EFB
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