mhaze

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.... Someone get that 48V subwoofer system started!!!
There are a ton of 48v to 12v dc converters available, seems they were developed to allow use of 12v accessories in golf carts.
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"Don't touch it if it is not yours" Think most of us learned that as todlers.
The door kicking thing on tiktok is a little concerning and hopefully all of that fades pretty quickly.
I know two people who had their cars stolen in the last month. I'm pretty sure there's a lot of toddlers out there who weren't taught the same way we were.

If people are touching my truck, I won't be thrilled, but it won't hurt it. I'm much more concerned with people who are more ill intentioned.
 
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RollingRefrigerator

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There are a ton of 48v to 12v dc converters available, seems they were developed to allow use of 12v accessories in golf carts.
Yes, but not for a thousand watt+ sub amp. I'm also anticipating massive ground loop noise problems with these things. And ideally you wouldn't step the voltage down only to step it back up for the output side. They typically run around 60V or so. But I would think you could just directly modulate the 48v and ditch all of the most expensive and heat generating parts of traditional amps.
 

Cybertruck 1974

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Put on "Hotel California" from the Eagles "Hell Freezes Over" album (live).

Crank the volume.

You're welcome.
Those hit. One of the best bass songs ever where it's clean bass. I had 2 12 inchers in my trunk and a variety of 15 other speakers in my 1980 Honda Accord back in 1993 and loved that track along with NWA. Thanks for the reminder. Have to make a play list for the CT. Picking up this week. Can't wait.
 

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Yes, but not for a thousand watt+ sub amp. I'm also anticipating massive ground loop noise problems with these things. And ideally you wouldn't step the voltage down only to step it back up for the output side. They typically run around 60V or so. But I would think you could just directly modulate the 48v and ditch all of the most expensive and heat generating parts of traditional amps.
A Quick Look and I found a couple 60A and one 100A unit. For ground issues a serious braided busbar would be in order. I'm not a serious audiophile, but have tinkered around and built dozens of electronic projects, most way beyond this in complexity. Creating / deriving 12V in required amounts should not be a showstopper - EVER. Having ways to test is essential, of course.
 


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If folks aren't tired of these threads yet, here are my initial impressions 21 miles into to this adventure:

The Good:
- Driving feel is outstanding. I don't agree with all these comments about SbW taking some getting used to. For me it was intuitive and smooth, and I never felt uncertain about what the truck would with a given steering input. Tesla nailed this.
- It drives like a tesla. I didn't notice the size until i accelerated through a corner. And even then it felt predictable and sure footed, just with more body roll than a sportscar, obviously. Normal driving felt like my model 3P which is def a good thing. Not as fast as my M3P, but to me it feels equivalent to my wife's MYP, even though it's not. I don't regret passing on the Beast, and (see above) I've never before bought a car that wasn't the fastest of the product line (Audi S6, M3, etc)
- Luxurious feel. The pics look sparse and clean, but once inside it feels plush and polished
- Too early on range, but I'm very encouraged. I averaged about 380 w/mi in my first 21 miles, mostly stop and go traffic on 101, but with several spirited starts from lights and a lot of button pressing in the parking lots of course
- So roomy and open! The steering wheel is tiny, but it's all you need and feels like an indy car. That means so much space for everything else. No stalks, etc, it's just wide open. Plus the high ceiling and panoramic glass make it feel like you're in a ballroom. But again I am more of a m3 or MY daily driver, although I have a silverado and this is much more open feeling. In the driving pic here, the steering wheel is near its lowest setting, but look at the lap clearance.
- Everyone has raved about the sound system, but I haven't heard a single detail, just "it rocks" or whatever. I'm a 40 something life long bass addict/ car audio nut, since back in my high school booming days. One of my biggest concerns with CT is the lack of 48V car audio solutions. With that context, yes, it's very very good. Bass wise, obviously it will not hold a candle to a decent aftermarket system. But it's the best stock sub I've ever heard by far. I still think i will need more though.... yeah, I know, it's a problem. Mid and high detail is good but not exceptional. Again some decent component 8s or even 6.5s with a quality amp would probably do better and definitely louder. In my opinion equivalent in clarity to my M3P. BUT THE SOUNDSTAGE! I think in coming days we will hear about how they worked to use multiple speakers in the dash against that giant windscreen to project the front stage out and wide. I've never heard so clearly the spatial separation between the singer and drummer, etc, or heard it so perfectly at stage level instead of clearly coming from the doors with a tinny fill speaker in the a pillar. Really good work, JUST SOMEONE DEVELOP A 48V SUB AMP! Should be MUCH cheaper to make and more efficient since the first thing 12V amps do is step up the voltage bigly.

The bad (maybe):
- Very little, I'm thrilled. But...
- Had some spots that looked suspect (like maybe scuffs or stains i couldn't just clean) and they offered to clean it. They said they had to buff it to clean it. Took 30 min, and it was clean, but... there is a spot where it is noticeably shinier/ smoother on that panel now. I think they advising refinished it and didn't use just the right texture. I'm sure they will fix it and only I noticed it so far, but FYI be aware that even at what is probably one of the busiest delivery centers in the country (Sunnyvale), they are figured this out as they go. He also said don't use any chemicals on it, but use alcohol only (which I would say is a chemical but whatever). I'm ignoring all of that and will test out Sheila Shine tomorrow.
- The vertical alignment difference
between the frunk and the quarter panel is sizable. So there is a knife like edge from the quarter that sticks past the frunk edge. I compared with another CT on the lot and they were the same. Not a big deal to me, but not ideal. Anyone else notice this or maybe just this batch? Will try to take a pic tomorrow.
- In person that frunk is pretty silly. Might fit a few bags of groceries I guess, but you'll be using the bed a lot, even for smallish luggage, which is annoying unless you have a bed divider
- service advisor said they would mail me the wall charger and power share hardware. That's totally not true, and whatever, but it was annoying she was more in the dark than me despite handing these over all day every day (according to her)
- yeah, I'll be OK when I no longer walk out to the parking lot to find a hoard of nerds ogling (and fingerprinting) my car... I thought it was interesting the almost equal split between "omg a CT! Lemme see!", "What is that?!", and absolutely zero notice or reaction or give a crap. 3 way split.

20240215_122622.jpg


20240215_121545.jpg
@RollingRefrigerator, thank you for this write-up. I just picked up my Cybertruck today (late 1600's VIN) and saw exactly what you were saying about the Frunk/hood alignment. It's like the hood sits lower than the fenders, albeit slightly. Only noticeable at certain angles when you're close to the truck. Really helped that you said yours had it too, so it's either a design choice, or all of us early builds are in it together. The rest of the build was excellent, BTW. Thanks again!
 

JBee

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If folks aren't tired of these threads yet, here are my initial impressions 21 miles into to this adventure:

The Good:
- Driving feel is outstanding. I don't agree with all these comments about SbW taking some getting used to. For me it was intuitive and smooth, and I never felt uncertain about what the truck would with a given steering input. Tesla nailed this.
- It drives like a tesla. I didn't notice the size until i accelerated through a corner. And even then it felt predictable and sure footed, just with more body roll than a sportscar, obviously. Normal driving felt like my model 3P which is def a good thing. Not as fast as my M3P, but to me it feels equivalent to my wife's MYP, even though it's not. I don't regret passing on the Beast, and (see above) I've never before bought a car that wasn't the fastest of the product line (Audi S6, M3, etc)
- Luxurious feel. The pics look sparse and clean, but once inside it feels plush and polished
- Too early on range, but I'm very encouraged. I averaged about 380 w/mi in my first 21 miles, mostly stop and go traffic on 101, but with several spirited starts from lights and a lot of button pressing in the parking lots of course
- So roomy and open! The steering wheel is tiny, but it's all you need and feels like an indy car. That means so much space for everything else. No stalks, etc, it's just wide open. Plus the high ceiling and panoramic glass make it feel like you're in a ballroom. But again I am more of a m3 or MY daily driver, although I have a silverado and this is much more open feeling. In the driving pic here, the steering wheel is near its lowest setting, but look at the lap clearance.
- Everyone has raved about the sound system, but I haven't heard a single detail, just "it rocks" or whatever. I'm a 40 something life long bass addict/ car audio nut, since back in my high school booming days. One of my biggest concerns with CT is the lack of 48V car audio solutions. With that context, yes, it's very very good. Bass wise, obviously it will not hold a candle to a decent aftermarket system. But it's the best stock sub I've ever heard by far. I still think i will need more though.... yeah, I know, it's a problem. Mid and high detail is good but not exceptional. Again some decent component 8s or even 6.5s with a quality amp would probably do better and definitely louder. In my opinion equivalent in clarity to my M3P. BUT THE SOUNDSTAGE! I think in coming days we will hear about how they worked to use multiple speakers in the dash against that giant windscreen to project the front stage out and wide. I've never heard so clearly the spatial separation between the singer and drummer, etc, or heard it so perfectly at stage level instead of clearly coming from the doors with a tinny fill speaker in the a pillar. Really good work, JUST SOMEONE DEVELOP A 48V SUB AMP! Should be MUCH cheaper to make and more efficient since the first thing 12V amps do is step up the voltage bigly.

The bad (maybe):
- Very little, I'm thrilled. But...
- Had some spots that looked suspect (like maybe scuffs or stains i couldn't just clean) and they offered to clean it. They said they had to buff it to clean it. Took 30 min, and it was clean, but... there is a spot where it is noticeably shinier/ smoother on that panel now. I think they advising refinished it and didn't use just the right texture. I'm sure they will fix it and only I noticed it so far, but FYI be aware that even at what is probably one of the busiest delivery centers in the country (Sunnyvale), they are figured this out as they go. He also said don't use any chemicals on it, but use alcohol only (which I would say is a chemical but whatever). I'm ignoring all of that and will test out Sheila Shine tomorrow.
- The vertical alignment difference
between the frunk and the quarter panel is sizable. So there is a knife like edge from the quarter that sticks past the frunk edge. I compared with another CT on the lot and they were the same. Not a big deal to me, but not ideal. Anyone else notice this or maybe just this batch? Will try to take a pic tomorrow.
- In person that frunk is pretty silly. Might fit a few bags of groceries I guess, but you'll be using the bed a lot, even for smallish luggage, which is annoying unless you have a bed divider
- service advisor said they would mail me the wall charger and power share hardware. That's totally not true, and whatever, but it was annoying she was more in the dark than me despite handing these over all day every day (according to her)
- yeah, I'll be OK when I no longer walk out to the parking lot to find a hoard of nerds ogling (and fingerprinting) my car... I thought it was interesting the almost equal split between "omg a CT! Lemme see!", "What is that?!", and absolutely zero notice or reaction or give a crap. 3 way split.

20240215_122622.jpg


20240215_121545.jpg
Just get a 120V amp and plug it into the outlet and sub, no need to go 48V.
You could go all out with a tube amp, but probably won't last long in a moving vehicle from all the good (and bad) vibes.

Not sure how you will get the audio out of the CT setup at a line level though, that seems a bigger problem. You'd have to tap the Ethernet bus and figure out which packets are the audio channels. From what I understand the audio amps are distributed amongst the speakers and synced and tuned via ethernet timing. You could potentially tap the speaker coils directly and level shift them, but you'd then have to demod all the speaker equalisation to get a staright signal, and that would be different on each speaker they use as thay would be a part of the tuning they did to get the best out of the speakers.

But with bass, its important to keep the levels within range of the rest of the system for something that represents the studio recording. More bass isn't always more good, unless of course you want to impress the neighbours and give yourself a acoustic lobotomy. But for that maybe external subs would save your rep and some nasel bleeds? :cool:
 
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RollingRefrigerator

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Just get a 120V amp and plug it into the outlet and sub, no need to go 48V.
You could go all out with a tube amp, but probably won't last long in a moving vehicle from all the good (and bad) vibes.

Not sure how you will get the audio out of the CT setup at a line level though, that seems a bigger problem. You'd have to tap the Ethernet bus and figure out which packets are the audio channels. From what I understand the audio amps are distributed amongst the speakers and synced and tuned via ethernet timing. You could potentially tap the speaker coils directly and level shift them, but you'd then have to demod all the speaker equalisation to get a staright signal, and that would be different on each speaker they use as thay would be a part of the tuning they did to get the best out of the speakers.

But with bass, its important to keep the levels within range of the rest of the system for something that represents the studio recording. More bass isn't always more good, unless of course you want to impress the neighbours and give yourself a acoustic lobotomy. But for that maybe external subs would save your rep and some nasel bleeds? :cool:
Totally with you on the 120v home audio sub thought. I even looked into some options that might fit under the rear seats. I haven't pulled the trigger, but something like this might work: https://a.co/d/8SPHvrn
That one is probably a bit thick, and honestly most of these slim line subs look weak on power, cone area/displacement and frankly, name recognition... If anyone has a reco, let me know!

As far as inputs, I'm less worried, as most have some sort of line level inputs, which will never win you the car audio comp, but I've found are suitable in situations like this where a full system replacement is not feasible and you are looking to add some low end support in a daily driver. It there's a phase issue, easily fixed. If it still seems off with the factory sub there is always the wire cutters!

I'm also hoping someone with more time and courage than me tears down the audio system and we can look at straight driver replacements, enclosure+sub swaps using stock amps.

On levels, and parity with mids/ highs, I'm mostly just missing that 80 Hz and below response. Pretty sure the factory system hits a wall around there. I 100% appreciate that they designed a system that is difficult to clip or distort regardless of volume and eq settings. But personally I'd prefer to be fully in charge of that knob!

Meanwhile I'll keep rocking the finest stock audio system I've heard to date!
 
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JBee

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Totally with you on the 120v home audio sub thought. I even looked into some options that might fit under the rear seats. I haven't pulled the trigger, but something like this might work: https://a.co/d/8SPHvrn
That one is probably a bit thick, and honestly most of these slim line subs look weak on power, cone area/displacement and frankly, name recognition... If anyone has a reco, let me know!

As far as inputs, I'm less worried, as most have some sort of line level inputs, which will never win you the car audio comp, but I've found are suitable in situations like this where a full system replacement is not feasible and you are looking to add some low end support in a daily driver. It there's a phase issue, easily fixed. If it still seems off with the factory sub there is always the wire cutters!

I'm also hoping someone with more time and courage than me tears down the audio system and we can look at straight driver replacements, enclosure+sub swaps using stock amps.

On levels, and parity with mids/ highs, I'm mostly just missing that 80 Hz and below response. Pretty sure the factory system hits a wall around there. I 100% appreciate that they designed a system that is difficult to clip or distort regardless of volume and eq settings. But personally I'd prefer to be fully in charge of that knob!

Meanwhile I'll keep rocking the finest stock audio system I've heard to date!
I think you missed my point because I didn't explain it fully.

I don’t think there are any "analog" audio outputs from the CT head unit and no inputs either except bluetooth, which I doubt supports lossless (or at least Aptx). I'm not sure what the Spotify etc can use on the head unit, but BT is ugly to start with.

The way the head unit connects is via digital ethernet to the individual digital controller nodes where a local MCU which hands on the right ethernet packets to the actual digital amps (Probably Class D amps with I2S inputs). Then each speaker is tuned to the cabin environment for frequency response and time synchronisation. Hence the sound stage.

But this is all done in the digital domain, the only time it is analog is just before the speakers where it comes out that local amplifier. This local amp however is "tuned" digitally, so using that as a source will be problematic because of all the digital filters on it to make it suit the speaker response at that particular location and the timing.

So unless you have a seperate dedicated head unit with analog outputs to drive your amps and subs, you will probably have a hard time getting a decent setup together with the existing system.
 

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I've been using my Frunk almost daily - not sure if because its powered or just that it's more usable than my M3P frunk, but its's definitely housing takeout food/leftovers and small-medium grocery runs (A Costco visit is definitely seeing bed being used)
 


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Totally with you on the 120v home audio sub thought. I even looked into some options that might fit under the rear seats. I haven't pulled the trigger, but something like this might work: https://a.co/d/8SPHvrn
That one is probably a bit thick, and honestly most of these slim line subs look weak on power, cone area/displacement and frankly, name recognition... If anyone has a reco, let me know!

As far as inputs, I'm less worried, as most have some sort of line level inputs, which will never win you the car audio comp, but I've found are suitable in situations like this where a full system replacement is not feasible and you are looking to add some low end support in a daily driver. It there's a phase issue, easily fixed. If it still seems off with the factory sub there is always the wire cutters!

I'm also hoping someone with more time and courage than me tears down the audio system and we can look at straight driver replacements, enclosure+sub swaps using stock amps.

On levels, and parity with mids/ highs, I'm mostly just missing that 80 Hz and below response. Pretty sure the factory system hits a wall around there. I 100% appreciate that they designed a system that is difficult to clip or distort regardless of volume and eq settings. But personally I'd prefer to be fully in charge of that knob!

Meanwhile I'll keep rocking the finest stock audio system I've heard to date!
Possible to get a measurement from the tailgate to the ground in the lowest entry mode setting? Have not been able to find the height measurement
Tesla Cybertruck First impressions after my Cybertruck delivery: The Good & Bad (Maybe) zimage7543
 

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I've been using my Frunk almost daily - not sure if because its powered or just that it's more usable than my M3P frunk, but its's definitely housing takeout food/leftovers and small-medium grocery runs (A Costco visit is definitely seeing bed being used)
Frunk is key for keeping the food smell from your interior (in any Tesla)!
 

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Also, on the subs: I played with them more on the drive this morning. They do very well for kick drums, etc. They start to struggle with EDM and hip-hop with deeper bass notes. My ear test says they start to drop off pretty quickly around 70-80 Hz or so, which isn't bad for a stock system, but it happens steeply. And personally I love me some 40 Hz booming tracks!
Run a Stereophile CD and plot it. Wait .... do they still sell them ?
 
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RollingRefrigerator

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Possible to get a measurement from the tailgate to the ground in the lowest entry mode setting? Have not been able to find the height measurement
zimage7543.png
31.25"
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