I agree that should not touch the glass. This version was designed for tailgate pull-up bars. I will modify it to not touch the glass in the front 4 positions in the next version.
Ok, so the special version is over the glass that can crack especially since the glass is known to not always be mounted at the same height from vehicle to vehicle from the factory. Somebody not paying attention will torque that bracket down and crack the glass. Or heat/cold expansion/contraction.
I have the same issue, with Yakima racks (bike, kayak, trays, roof pods). My strategy was to abandon the mounts and bars, install Tesla OEM bars, and transfer over the Yakima devices for the toys and pods, all of which will fit on any crossbar. I do miss the Yakima Overhead system that was on my last two Ford pickup trucks, but no way to make the connection on a CT. I had both of these trucks as recently as March, miss them both, but the CT is a game-changer. I still have a F-350 diesel and a F-250 diesel at the farm in Virginia, but don’t touch them - they are farm trucks for staff use. Honestly, there will always be a place for basic cheap work trucks and the CT isn’t that.
VERY COOL!!The roof hardpoints are not easy to multi-purpose. I designed these to allow a roof rack to be used with other accessories like light bars, grab handles, flat-spots, Starlink mounts, etc. I have several designs now, and here are two, printed in stainless, and not yet powder coated:
This one was designed to mount an aftermarket light bar that attaches to the rooftop hardpoints. It requires an additional mounting bar for the specific light.
This one is a generic mounting point. I am using this for a Starlink mini mount (Savage UTV's), and a rear grab handle:
My roof rack uses TickTock's quick-remove roof rack brackets (slightly modified). This is what it looks like with the bracket installed. I had to trim the ends of his brackets slightly:
Here is the roof rack on with the bracket:
These have been tested and also work with the OEM roof rack. This example is non-production plastic for testing:
I am not selling anything here. If there is interest I can setup a printables account to allow download and modification. Caviat: don't put anything on your roof that is printed in plastic. Spend a few bucks and have it printed in metal. This is especially true with light bars. The upward force/moment from the aftermarket light-bars is significant.
I am not suggesting these are suitable for any purpose. Do your own engineering before using these or any other mounting product. These will break, and when they do they will damage your truck and possibly injure you or others. You are solely responsible for any use of, adaptation, or modification of these parts.
This is awesome. Nice work. If you don't mind a minor suggestion, Google "stress riser" and consider adding fillets or chamfers. The practice will increase strength and reduce chance of failure by a factor of 2 or more.The roof hardpoints are not easy to multi-purpose. I designed these to allow a roof rack to be used with other accessories like light bars, grab handles, flat-spots, Starlink mounts, etc. I have several designs now, and here are two, printed in stainless, and not yet powder coated:
This one was designed to mount an aftermarket light bar that attaches to the rooftop hardpoints. It requires an additional mounting bar for the specific light.
This one is a generic mounting point. I am using this for a Starlink mini mount (Savage UTV's), and a rear grab handle:
My roof rack uses TickTock's quick-remove roof rack brackets (slightly modified). This is what it looks like with the bracket installed. I had to trim the ends of his brackets slightly:
Here is the roof rack on with the bracket:
These have been tested and also work with the OEM roof rack. This example is non-production plastic for testing:
I am not selling anything here. If there is interest I can setup a printables account to allow download and modification. Caviat: don't put anything on your roof that is printed in plastic. Spend a few bucks and have it printed in metal. This is especially true with light bars. The upward force/moment from the aftermarket light-bars is significant.
I am not suggesting these are suitable for any purpose. Do your own engineering before using these or any other mounting product. These will break, and when they do they will damage your truck and possibly injure you or others. You are solely responsible for any use of, adaptation, or modification of these parts.
Thank you. I looked at the lateral forces, but was most concerned about the lifting forces from a lightbar, hence the side silhouettes to reduce vertical deflection. For an application with a significant lateral load I would definitely add chamfer or ribs.
Speaking of looking at the numbers, the roof bolts are the likely failure points. Someone posted pics of a bolt that broke while being tightened. It looked like cast, which doesn't make sense if the bolt is welded in. If they are welded cast bolts (just guessing), they will be the point of failure of any lifting or lateral forces.
I do not yet have, but will develop these things. Appreciate the reply.
