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flamaest

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We need to find a 12-volt rear view mirror solution that can pigtail to this 12 volt connector in the PRNDL box.

Someone that makes these digital mirrors has to be watching this thread. Hanshow, I'm looking at you.... ??

It would connect wirelessly to a camera in the back, preferably feeding off the camera signal that is already there, or at least pigtail power. . NO WIRES PLEASE.
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FuryEV

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I sure someone will, probally cost $500 when they do. this soultion cost less then $200 or you can pickback off your mirror for $150.00 they are cheaper camera which i tried but i wanted 4K and 2.5K camera.. the issue is when u plug the Camera is it draws to much power
 

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When you pulled that a pillar trim back I thought I saw the curtain air bag do any of these wires go in front of the airbags? Could be an issue in a crash if so.
 
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When you pulled that a pillar trim back I thought I saw the curtain air bag do any of these wires go in front of the airbags? Could be an issue in a crash if so.
There are No issues. I have Cleaned up everything since that Video. This was just a more how to route the wire Video to help anyone thinking about doing it.
 

Cyberschmoops

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I ordered the things, I will figure out the mirror mount as I don't 3d print. Copycating you @MadCyber! Will report back. Appreciate the idea.
 


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I sure someone will, probally cost $500 when they do. this soultion cost less then $200 or you can pickback off your mirror for $150.00 they are cheaper camera which i tried but i wanted 4K and 2.5K camera.. the issue is when u plug the Camera is it draws to much power
Having installed head units and cameras in other cars, with fuse taps or directly to battery, I believe your statement needs clarification on power draw. Based on several 4k/2.5k rear view products on Amazon, they utilize USB-C connectors and come with the cigarette lighter adapter for power, which is 12V and has an integrated fuse. But the USB-C products require 5V @ 2A, so if you tap directly into the 12V at the mirror socket, your rear view camera unit would / should shut-off due to over voltage (or fry if faulty). To get this to work, you'll need a buck converter, step down from 12V to 5V. AliExpress sells them for $3 or Amazon for $8; some come with the USB connector already built-in. The issue then is space for the buck converter (it's about 1x1.5" in size) for placement inside the mirror base (or just mount it somewhere else). Radar detectors have a higher power draw and 12V is the typical input required which is why the video referenced in a previous post works with the socket.
 
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Having installed head units and cameras in other cars, with fuse taps or directly to battery, I believe your statement needs clarification on power draw. Based on several 4k/2.5k rear view products on Amazon, they utilize USB-C connectors and come with the cigarette lighter adapter for power, which is 12V and has an integrated fuse. But the USB-C products require 5V @ 2A, so if you tap directly into the 12V at the mirror socket, your rear view camera unit would / should shut-off due to over voltage (or fry if faulty). To get this to work, you'll need a buck converter, step down from 12V to 5V. AliExpress sells them for $3 or Amazon for $8; some come with the USB connector already built-in. The issue then is space for the buck converter (it's about 1x1.5" in size) for placement inside the mirror base (or just mount it somewhere else). Radar detectors have a higher power draw and 12V is the typical input required which is why the video referenced in a previous post works with the socket.
I tried to keep this very simple. using the ODB Port to get power is quick and easy. I am sure there are other ways. I try to keep things simple
 

GiKi

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I tried to keep this very simple. using the ODB Port to get power is quick and easy. I am sure there are other ways. I try to keep things simple
Indeed, but price is an important factor. The product you mentioned from Amazon is cheap and will work perfectly with a DC-DC step down buck converter, direct interface to the mirror port and no wacky wire routing. Companies like Hansshow are selling their units for +$400 to be purpose-built for the CT (its a markup beyond 10X), but still won't hold up to your setup.

I didn't know you tapped into the ODB port...TBH, I didn't know such port was available given the RJ communication interface, but FWW, I wouldn't use this port for power given the sensitivity and criticality of this port. Just my two cents...and thanks for the video.
 
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they make adapter you plug in ODB port to give us power USB-C or Cig Light adapter. I am running 2 devices off my ODB Port Zero issues. I did the same on a Rivian R1S I had also
 


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they make adapter you plug in ODB port to give us power USB-C or Cig Light adapter. I am running 2 devices off my ODB Port Zero issues. I did the same on a Rivian R1S I had also
Do you have a splitter for the ODB port? I currently have that in use for the Tsportline phone charger. Would love a link so I can split it of this option works for the mirror.
 
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There are No issues. I have Cleaned up everything since that Video. This was just a more how to route the wire Video to help anyone thinking about doing it.
Hey, few questions if you don't mind:

1) How did you mount the camera to the top of the bed? Double Tape? screws? Is it "Car-wash" proof?
2) Is the camera that comes with the kit the one you used? or did you switch to a less-wide model?
3) Does the OBD port power method allow the mirror to turn off and on with the operation of the CT? I heard that if we use the USB-C port, it will basically stay on all the time unless you turn Sentry off or turn the mirror on/off manually.
4) Where is the OBD port? haha
5) Any thoughts on the new Wolfbox 900Pro? Says it has a 4MP rear camera which seems to be the same as 2.5K.
 

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For those without a 3D printer...

Remove the stock mirror. Take a putty knife and carefully cut the double sided tape holding the glass to the mirror mount plastic. Do not pry, the idea is to cut it by pushing the blade between the glass and plastic backing. This will take multiple stabs working from one side to the other. Rub off the excess sticky stuff, glue on your back up monitor camera.

Notes:
My Type S screen back was not flat enough to glue so I filed off the Type S mounting point.
Make sure you have your screen right side up, most will not flip up and down.
Be sure power and switches are not blocked.
Passengers so far have commented how smart Elon was to have a camera instead of a mirror!
 
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GiKi

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For those without a 3D printer...

Remove the stock mirror. Take a putty knife and carefully cut the double sided tape holding the glass to the mirror mount plastic. Do not pry, the idea is to cut it by pushing the blade between the glass and plastic backing. This will take multiple stabs working from one side to the other. Rub off the excess sticky stuff, glue on your back up monitor camera.

Notes:
My Type S screen back was not flat enough to glue so I filed off the Type S mounting point.
Make sure you have your screen right side up, most will not flip up and down.
Be sure power and switches are not blocked.
Passengers so far have commented how smart Elon was to have a camera instead of a mirror!
I didn't have a 3D printer and I certainly didn't want to spend 2X for an "OEM" designed mirror which typically are smaller. Noticing that the mirror stalk and housing was plastic, and that the wire that is capped by the torx screw is slotted through a very narrow opening, I decided to widen the hole with shears (I didn't have my Dremmel with me to make it look clean) so that I could pull out the two wires needed for my model of the digital mirror. One wire was for the USB-C cable, the other wire was for the rear camera.

I mentioned earlier that one could use a buck converter to reduce the 15V supplied from the CT to a 5V or 12V. Using one that I bought from Amazon, it was tiny enough to actually fit in the central housing where the cooling fan is located in the compartment. I spliced the 15V wires using T-Taps (red), connected the buck converter, and routed the USB-C cable to the digital mirror and the rear camera cable from the compartment and up through the hazard button housing. I believe the OP and others have had issues routing the cables through this area but I didn't have any problems. This was a huge plus because there was no ugly wires being exposed.

The rear camera cable went through the wire channel towards the passenger side. And continuing down this channel (using fiberglass fish sticks), I pulled back some of the rubber sealing at the passenger door and continued to route the wiring to the rear passenger door. I was disappointed discovering that the egress point where the wires could have gone through the tonneau / cab was near-impossible without further disassembly. Perhaps there is another behind the passenger seat (again, not wanting to remove the seat). Instead, I managed to route the cable at the top of the mirror, underneath the rubber seal, and pull the cable downward to the housing adjacent to the wheel wells.

Removing the plastic arch was easy and pulling the last of the cable to the now-exposed tow bar worked in my favor. I opted to mount the camera at this location because its more protected from the elements and not exposed to the public. However, one drawback to this approach (aside from exposing the tow bar) is that the camera gets a lot of glare at night time. Nearly unusable at night and I'll need to figure out the best way to angle the camera and/or apply anti-glare film to the camera lens housing.
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