Locking Diff stuck after 24.14.3 update

[HaulingAss]

The damage that can be done using lockers on pavement, especially while turning can be very severe and expensive. Don't do it. If you want to test your lockers find a dirt or gravel road or a dirt parking area to try it out.

True, the lower the traction, the less binding that can happen.

Locking differentials are a serious tool that come with some big advantages and disadvantages. Even on a low-traction surface they will significantly increase your turning radius (assuming the front wheels are also on a low traction surface). That's because a locked rear axle wants to go straight ahead, putting a side load on your front contact patches when trying to steer. If it's slippery, that will result in your front wheels having more of a tendency to plow straight ahead (scrub) even though they are turned. Try to reduce the sharpness of turning required when any lockers are engaged.

Locked differentials will also increase battery consumption/reduce range while increasing tread wear. They should be used very judiciously, and only when beneficial (which is less often than many people think). Even damp dirt can have very high levels of grip, causing strong binding and wear or breakage of drivetrain components. Dry, dusty surfaces, or slick wet surfaces, are safer than damp hard-packed ground which can have almost as much traction as pavement.

The rear locking differential is the most useful of the two, there are limited applications for the front locking differential, primarily slippery, rugged ground on very steep terrain where the rear locking differential is not enough. Because the lockers will lock the left and right wheels on each axle together, they are best used when not turning sharply.

Locking the differential can cause problems when in very slippery conditions like snow and ice when used on off-camber paths (when there is a side slope to the direction of travel). That's because they will cause both tires to break traction, either due to application of power or when the wheels need to turn at different rates due to a steering input or even due to the terrain (a wheel going over obstacles has to travel further than a wheel on a smooth, flat line). This can cause the locked axle to slide sideways downhill more readily than if the differential were left open (but you will have more forward drive to help compensate).

One last tip: They will be harder to engage/disengage if your tire pressures are not equal left to right. Even small pressure differentials will cause your tires to have a different effective circumference, which will load a locked differential when traveling straight ahead on flat ground. Keep your tires at identical pressures on the same axle. If you know one tire is at a lower pressure than the other, the locker will disengage easier if you steer in the direction of the low pressure tire, putting it on the inside of the turn to compensate for it's smaller circumference.

If you don't need your differentials locked, then don't lock them.

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[Outdoors]

If one thinks it is not locked and it is throwing errors try driving in full circles not like crazy, but if possible on dirt about 5 or 6 times. Should make it see that it is unlocked. From experience. I do dirty tesla things, yet someone else has the name.

From above post don't lock if you don't have to save the lock for the get out of shit. Yet everyone can drive one's own drive. They should be able to turn on and off, but lockers are not party tricks to show the neighbors.

 

[akenis]

yea it’s dropped off over at service. They will take a look today and let me know.

Just got my truck back. Air suspension hose wasn't installed in Voss fittings securely.

But I went into service mode and see that I do have the no post engagement calibration alerts. Does everyone have them initially? Does it calibrate under normal driving, or do the diffs need to be locked and unlocked for the calibration to occur?

 

[akenis]

It will calibrate on its own over time. Mine cleared up on its own after about 3000 miles

I have these alerts for no post engagement calibration. Does everyone? Are you saying they calibrate during normal driving, or with several diff unlocking?

 

[Glitterbomb]

Hello- I have had it in service twice for this. The first time they said it’s a calibration issue, they kept a few days and it happened to just stop giving the error after the software update while it was in service. We had it a couple days and it started again (with a new graphic showing how to wiggle to disengage). It has been in service over a week now-it hasn’t moved from its parking spot after they advised it was on hold waiting to get direction of what to do until yesterday they messaged and said they are replacing the drive unit. I am going to ask they give me a call to discuss versus the chat-can you all give some advice on if I should question their decision or if you found resolution that wasn’t mechanical? I assume they have indication that it is a mechanical issue however the truck drives fine during the error, it goes away shortly after we start driving after a stop and we never locked the differential in the first place but have used extract. I am apprehensive about it being worked on at that level, especially since every time it’s in they mention how they aren’t experienced or trained in CT they are learning as they come in. Thanks!

 

[Tony stank]

Hello- I have had it in service twice for this. The first time they said it’s a calibration issue, they kept a few days and it happened to just stop giving the error after the software update while it was in service. We had it a couple days and it started again (with a new graphic showing how to wiggle to disengage). It has been in service over a week now-it hasn’t moved from its parking spot after they advised it was on hold waiting to get direction of what to do until yesterday they messaged and said they are replacing the drive unit. I am going to ask they give me a call to discuss versus the chat-can you all give some advice on if I should question their decision or if you found resolution that wasn’t mechanical? I assume they have indication that it is a mechanical issue however the truck drives fine during the error, it goes away shortly after we start driving after a stop and we never locked the differential in the first place but have used extract. I am apprehensive about it being worked on at that level, especially since every time it’s in they mention how they aren’t experienced or trained in CT they are learning as they come in. Thanks!

Man, I feel you ur pain. Mine was in the shop about 50% of the time for so many issues. The worse is when it just sat outside for days with no one working on it.
I got fed up with it and just sold it for cost a few weeks ago.

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