Ontario to California Road Trip: Hauling BMW R1300 GSA in Cybertruck Bed - Need Your Advice!

[Trident]

Hey Cybertruck Community!

I’m a Foundation Series owner from Ontario, Canada planning an epic road trip from Ontario to California and back, and I need your collective wisdom. I’ll be hauling my 2025 BMW R1300 GSA (89.8” long, 593 lbs) in the Cybertruck bed with the tailgate open, and I have some questions for those who’ve done similar trips or have experience with motorcycle transport.

THE SETUP:
• Bike: BMW R1300 GSA - 89.8” long (2,280mm)
• CT Bed: 72.75” floor length (tailgate up)
• Configuration: Rear wheel will rest on/near open tailgate edge
• Distance: Ontario → California → Ontario (approx. 5,000+ km round trip)

MY QUESTIONS FOR THE COMMUNITY:
1. Has anyone driven through multiple US states with tailgate down and cargo extending past the bed? Any specific state regulations I should know about? My understanding is that Flag/load marker must be attached if the bike projects beyond 1 meter of the bed, as per most regulations. But in this instance the complete height of the tailgate (projecting behind the CT rear) is 21 inches which is less than 1 meter.
2. I am assuming that the License plate will remain visible and will not be required to be moved elsewhere for legal reasons of any USA State?
3. What kind of range hit should I expect with a 593 lb motorcycle in the bed and the aerodynamic impact of of tailgate-down hauling? Anyone done long-distance trips with similar cargo? How did it affect your charging strategy?
4. Any recommendations for Motorcycle Ratchet Tie downs? How many tie-down points do you use (thinking 4 total: 2 front, 2 rear)? Is a Bar Harness recommended for the front attachment? I will be using Mac’s Custom Tie-Downs (2” x 6’, 10,000 lbs breaking strength) with integrated soft loops.
5. Which foldable ramp is recommended by the forum for safely riding the bike up to the CT Bed? I am considering the BlackWidow 10’ Big Boy EZ Rizer 2-piece Arched Folding Ramp (https://www.blackwidowpro.com/motorcycle/ramps/full-width/p/mf2-12038-ez/). It’s folded length for storage in CT Bed will be 5’.
6. What would be the preferred or safe “Approach Angle” for riding my BMW R1300 GSA on to the CT Bed whose height from ground in “Entry Mode” is ≈32”? I would prefer to have a climb angle of 12º-15º.
7. Any recommendations for CT Bed Extenders that are made for CT?

Many thanks, in advance, to all who help and guide me.

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[TyPope]

1. No flag required unless your load is 2' past the rear bumper. The tailgate length is fine.
2. License plate is fine where it is.
3. I don't know. It'll be considerable though but mostly because of the bike.
4. I'd go with 4 really good tiedowns. Unlike tying down a vehicle where you let the vehicle's suspension do it's own thing and you typically go over a tire or to an axle, you'll want to sinch down the straps to compress the suspension enough that it can't bounce loose. Make sure you tie down each corner individually. Don't use one strap across the bike (it can fall over).
5. Whatever ramp you get, make darn sure it is secured to the truck BEFORE you try to ride up it. There are way too many videos of people scooting the ramps out beneath their drive tires.
6. I have a KTM 950 Adventure so I can't speak about your BMW 1300's breakover angle, but I'd suspect a 6' ramp would be plenty (2 meter)
7. I'm planning a trip from Washington D.C. to Nebraska and am going to mount my motorcycle chock to a 2x12x10. That'll support the bike's weight for better tailgate health.

I was wondering today about building a way to end up with my KTMs rear tire above the tailgate so I could retain FSD capability during the trip. Without being too ridiculous, of course.

 

[PungoteagueDave]

I have the same bike, a 2026 GSA. I have carried many bikes in the back of pickup trucks, including my recently traded 2021 GSA in the CT. I use a Condor front wheel chock and four soft ties similar to the brand you have. I use standard ratchet straps between the soft ties and the front and rear strap attachment points on the bed. I do not fasten the Condor chock, as the bike weight and tie downs are sufficient to keep it in place. I’ve thought about drilling holes and installing captive nuts but decided it isn’t necessary.

I use a triple-wide loading ramp so I can put my feet down if necessary while ride-on loading. I don’t remember the brand, but it is only 5.5 feet long, fits into the bed. I put the truck suspension in entry mode and back up to a slight rise on my lawn that minimizes the break over angle. Loading is easy but unloading is a bit dicier as there’s no power for that direction. I always have an assistant/spotter when unloading.

The rear wheel sits squarely on the tailgate, ensuring it will not move. The soft ties are installed on the front fork tubes above the lower triple clamp, allowing some suspension compression. Don’t use a lot of compression, just enough to keep tension forward and down, maybe an inch of suspension travel. The rear soft ties (or just the ratchet straps) go between the rear pillion foot pegs and the rear bed attachment points. This is also sprung, and I ratchet about an inch of rear travel, ensuring there is constant pressure on the rear wheel and tailgate.

You don’t need flagging or any other warning, as the bike doesn’t extend beyond the tailgate when down. Same for license plate visibility - I’ve never had an issue with police objecting to a lowered tailgate. However it may have gotten my out of a couple video tolls over the years.

I recently sold my Rampage motorcycle loading system that made for extremely easy loading and unloading bikes single-handed. I found that installing and removing the heavy steel track and girder system was just not worth the hassle and time, even though I designed a pulley system to install and remove it using the lift’s winch. However, it is the ultimate way to do it if you put bike in you bed frequently. I installed captive nuts in the beds of my last five non-Tesla pickups, decided to go with the naked bed this time.

you didn’t ask, but in spite of using the bed often for motorcycle transport, my preferred method is to use a utility trailer. They are low and easy to load, more versatile, and likely have little difference in range impact.

https://www.rampagelift.com/?gad_so...4yRaUgqgz6O5Vs0n4P9ewouQ5Sc4_QXBoCvNUQAvD_BwE

 

[Trident]

1. No flag required unless your load is 2' past the rear bumper. The tailgate length is fine.
2. License plate is fine where it is.
3. I don't know. It'll be considerable though but mostly because of the bike.
4. I'd go with 4 really good tiedowns. Unlike tying down a vehicle where you let the vehicle's suspension do it's own thing and you typically go over a tire or to an axle, you'll want to sinch down the straps to compress the suspension enough that it can't bounce loose. Make sure you tie down each corner individually. Don't use one strap across the bike (it can fall over).
5. Whatever ramp you get, make darn sure it is secured to the truck BEFORE you try to ride up it. There are way too many videos of people scooting the ramps out beneath their drive tires.
6. I have a KTM 950 Adventure so I can't speak about your BMW 1300's breakover angle, but I'd suspect a 6' ramp would be plenty (2 meter)
7. I'm planning a trip from Washington D.C. to Nebraska and am going to mount my motorcycle chock to a 2x12x10. That'll support the bike's weight for better tailgate health.

I was wondering today about building a way to end up with my KTMs rear tire above the tailgate so I could retain FSD capability during the trip. Without being too ridiculous, of course.

Ty Thanks for highlighting the FSD non-availability when the tailgate is open. I had overlooked that aspect. On long drives I always use FSD and its non -availability will be a disappointment. What would you recommend for securing the ramp to the truck?

I have the same bike, a 2026 GSA. I have carried many bikes in the back of pickup trucks, including my recently traded 2021 GSA in the CT. I use a Condor front wheel chock and four soft ties similar to the brand you have. I use standard ratchet straps between the soft ties and the front and rear strap attachment points on the bed. I do not fasten the Condor chock, as the bike weight and tie downs are sufficient to keep it in place. I’ve thought about drilling holes and installing captive nuts but decided it isn’t necessary.

I use a triple-wide loading ramp so I can put my feet down if necessary while ride-on loading. I don’t remember the brand, but it is only 5.5 feet long, fits into the bed. I put the truck suspension in entry mode and back up to a slight rise on my lawn that minimizes the break over angle. Loading is easy but unloading is a bit dicier as there’s no power for that direction. I always have an assistant/spotter when unloading.

The rear wheel sits squarely on the tailgate, ensuring it will not move. The soft ties are installed on the front fork tubes above the lower triple clamp, allowing some suspension compression. Don’t use a lot of compression, just enough to keep tension forward and down, maybe an inch of suspension travel. The rear soft ties (or just the ratchet straps) go between the rear pillion foot pegs and the rear bed attachment points. This is also sprung, and I ratchet about an inch of rear travel, ensuring there is constant pressure on the rear wheel and tailgate.

You don’t need flagging or any other warning, as the bike doesn’t extend beyond the tailgate when down. Same for license plate visibility - I’ve never had an issue with police objecting to a lowered tailgate. However it may have gotten my out of a couple video tolls over the years.

I recently sold my Rampage motorcycle loading system that made for extremely easy loading and unloading bikes single-handed. I found that installing and removing the heavy steel track and girder system was just not worth the hassle and time, even though I designed a pulley system to install and remove it using the lift’s winch. However, it is the ultimate way to do it if you put bike in you bed frequently. I installed captive nuts in the beds of my last five non-Tesla pickups, decided to go with the naked bed this time.

you didn’t ask, but in spite of using the bed often for motorcycle transport, my preferred method is to use a utility trailer. They are low and easy to load, more versatile, and likely have little difference in range impact.

https://www.rampagelift.com/?gad_so...4yRaUgqgz6O5Vs0n4P9ewouQ5Sc4_QXBoCvNUQAvD_BwE

Thanks David. As Ty mentioned in his comments that the FSD isn’t available in CT if the tailgate I open. In that case a trailer might be more appropriate since I tend to use FSD a lot on long range drives. Have you used the FSD with a trailer?

 

[PungoteagueDave]

Ty Thanks for highlighting the FSD non-availability when the tailgate is open. I had overlooked that aspect. On long drives I always use FSD and its non -availability will be a disappointment. What would you recommend for securing the ramp to the truck?

Thanks David. As Ty mentioned in his comments that the FSD isn’t available in CT if the tailgate I open. In that case a trailer might be more appropriate since I tend to use FSD a lot on long range drives. Have you used the FSD with a trailer?

It is true that FSD is inoperable with the tailgate down. One forum member reported over-riding that limitation by tricking the switch into thinking the tailgate is closed. I forget how, but IIRC it involved using tape. Not a great idea IMO.

I tow multiple trailers behind the CT - yes, FSD is also locked out when towing. This is because the truck's blind spot system uses cameras and not radar or ultrasonic sensors, so isn't able to "watch" the trailer's length for lane change purposes.

Most modern pickup trucks have individual trailer profiles that you set up for things like length, width, weight, height, type of brakes, electric brake gain settings, lighting, cameras, etc. The CT has profiles for each trailer (I have nine individually named trailers), but does not currently track trailer lengths. Without that information it would not be safe for FSD to operate, as it would assume the rig is only as long as the truck's rear bumper. This may be something that Tesla eventually adds to the trailer profile, and could maybe allow adding trailering with supervised FSD. However, unsupervised FSD is unlikely in my opinion, as the liability transfer would be huge, and Tesla would be relying heavily on owner-reported unique trailer characteristics. That's unlikely to pass legal review, and is probably impossible to pull off - every trailer is different, is loaded uniquely, and can change over time depending on what's on/in it. For example, my car carrier box trailer can (1) be empty, (2) have a lightweight antique car that's 2,500 pounds, or (3) 6,000 pounds of oyster cage wire. How could Tesla ever build FSD for these kinds of contingencies, and then rely on owner reporting competence to make driving decisions? Anyone with experience watching the antics at a busy boat ramp understands that incompetence reigns supreme when it comes to trailering. No amount of neural network learning can likely overcome that human interface hurdle well enough to make self-driving work for consumer trailering. I am super-diligent about trailering, but even I find that I sometimes forget to change a parameter, such as brake gain settings, when switching from fully loaded to empty. I have a pilot-style checklist, but there's often a lot of pressure to move quickly at loading/offloading spots, with folks waiting in line.

Some forum members have reported defeating the auto-sensing of a trailer's presence by turning off trailer mode, thereby enabling FSD. I personally wouldn't try that for several reasons, but chiefly the fact that most of my trailers use electric braking. However, small utility trailers do not have brakes, and a motorcycle (or two) is light enough to belay the need for trailer brakes. I doubt that this over-ride would work reliably anyway, as the CT is continually monitoring the trailer electronics loop, and not only recognizes that there is a trailer, but which one (with a profile) is attached. Perhaps the work-around to use FSD with a non-braked trailer is to forgo hooking up the trailer lights, but that's another set of legal issues that aren't worth it IMO.

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