Rear driver side mounting posts missing

[loki]

Is there any reason why the rear driver side mounting points should be missing? I did get the recall done for the trim replacement. Are the bolts readily removable and not more securely attached to the frame?

Just discovered this getting ready to install the Urander rack.

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[aeroguy]

That looks like a quick service fix since you’re missing the part. That’s amazing they didn’t notice the missing posts when doing the trim recall, but then again we all miss the gorilla the first time.

The posts are one piece, not removable, inserted from below (with adhesive most likely). Here’s a picture of the underside:

 

[loki]

Wow adhesive? Thats meant to help stabilize the declared weight on the mounts which I believe is 200 each? Even if welded etc seems a bit flimsy but I’m not the CT engineer.

 

[wtibbit]

Wow adhesive? Thats meant to help stabilize the declared weight on the mounts which I believe is 200 each? Even if welded etc seems a bit flimsy but I’m not the CT engineer.

The "post" discussed by the OP is actually an adhesive-mounted flanged stud, inserted from the underside of the mounting point when the truck was assembled. A mating nut was also installed after the adhesive cured.

The adhesive's purpose is to hold the stud in place when there is no nut present to retain the stud, and to prevent the stud from turning when tightening a nut on it. The adhesive doesn't bear weight at any time other than the weight of the stud itself, and that only happens when there is no nut on it. The stud is under tension when any device (or only the nut) is attached to the mounting point.

The most likely failure mode for the stud would occur if the nut is over-tightened, shearing the adhesive so that the stud turns freely, making the removal of the nut very difficult. This is why Tesla's crossbar kit is delivered with a torque-limited tool for tightening the nuts on the mounting studs.

 

[loki]

Just my luck. Apparently a part not installed from factory and cannot be ordered by service. Repair instructions for this are also not created. The rack will have to wait

 

[mongo]

The most likely failure mode for the stud would occur if the nut is over-tightened, shearing the adhesive so that the stud turns freely, making the removal of the nut very difficult. This is why Tesla's crossbar kit is delivered with a torque-limited tool for tightening the nuts on the mounting studs.

Isn't that unit two studs with a cross plate? If so, it's not the adhesive that would let go if over torqued, but the press fit/ rivet.

 

[loki]

Advisor mentioned it’s the cantrail stud plate and is welded on.

 

[loki]

Wonder if I’ll need a new part 11? Zoom in on part 12 seems like that area will be impossible to get to? Would new panels have completely different shades of gray?

 

[wtibbit]

Isn't that unit two studs with a cross plate? If so, it's not the adhesive that would let go if over torqued, but the press fit/ rivet.

Could be. Either way, it would be bad to over-torque those studs so their attachments fail.

 

[mongo]

Wonder if I’ll need a new part 11? Zoom in on part 12 seems like that area will be impossible to get to? Would new panels have completely different shades of gray?

It looks accessible, with long jawed pliers. Question I have is what Tesla would allow in terms of attachment method given the assembly wants to be flush.

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