Tire and wheel slip?

[ARMANDO PADILLA]

has anyone had this happen to them?
I recently took my cyberbeast offroad and I did the recommended preparations prior to getting offroad.
like remove the wheel covers and mud flaps and i reduced the air pressure in my wheels from 50 to 30psi. while doing this I noticed one of my tires was no longer in alinement with the pattern on the rim. I never noticed because the cover/hubcap had been adjusted to compensate for the misalignment, but it wasn't off by much.
Well after a day in the sun and dirt out on El Mirage dry lakebed including some hill climbing, I made it up a hill everyone thought I would not make it up. In fact, my 2 passengers who were grown men bailed on me for fear of things going wrong. The guys who were at the top of the hill, already and made it up on a Jeep Rubicon. They were waving me down yelling you won't make it, don't try it. But none of them have driven the cyberbeast so they didn't know. Anyway, I made it no problem. Except now all of my wheels have a lot of misalignments from wheel and tire slip. What do i do to fix this? besides having to remount tires.

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[mongo]

has anyone had this happen to them?
I recently took my cyberbeast offroad and I did the recommended preparations prior to getting offroad.
like remove the wheel covers and mud flaps and i reduced the air pressure in my wheels from 50 to 30psi. while doing this I noticed one of my tires was no longer in alinement with the pattern on the rim. I never noticed because the cover/hubcap had been adjusted to compensate for the misalignment, but it wasn't off by much.
Well after a day in the sun and dirt out on El Mirage dry lakebed including some hill climbing, I made it up a hill everyone thought I would not make it up. In fact, my 2 passengers who were grown men bailed on me for fear of things going wrong. The guys who were at the top of the hill, already and made it up on a Jeep Rubicon. They were waving me down yelling you won't make it, don't try it. But none of them have driven the cyberbeast so they didn't know. Anyway, I made it no problem. Except now all of my wheels have a lot of misalignments from wheel and tire slip. What do i do to fix this? besides having to remount tires.

The tires are rim don't need to align, and Tesla's service manual process for mounting results in an indeterminate phasing. Do you think you actually spun them without de-beading?

If you go to rougher terrain, you'll want to remove these also:

Note; you don't need to mess with the front wheel fairing at all to gain sufficient access
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...UID-D0420707-8D36-4266-9B2A-4B636FBA962E.html

 

[65SoYoLO]

I could not imagine any possible scenario that your tire would spin on the rim unless it's flat

 

[ARMANDO PADILLA]

I could not imagine any possible scenario that your tire would spin on the rim unless it's flat

I purposely let air pressure out from 50 down to 30 -25psi. for better grip while offroad on softer ground and I locked the differential for some rock climbing. I said this already but if you need to see evidence Ill take a few pictures in a min. what do you think I'm making this up? all of my wheels have slipped and that's a fact because i know that they were aligned with the rims and now none of them are. and don't forget we are dealing with a new level of torque and instant delivery of that torque.

 

[ARMANDO PADILLA]

I purposely let air pressure out from 50 down to 30 -25psi. for better grip while offroad on softer ground and I locked the differential for some rock climbing. I said this already but if you need to see evidence Ill take a few pictures in a min. what do you think I'm making this up? all of my wheels have slipped and that's a fact because i know that they were aligned with the rims and now none of them are. and don't forget we are dealing with a new level of torque and instant delivery of that torque.

you can already see in the pics i put up already that the driver side front wheel has significant slip on it already at the top of that first hill. the others apear to be aligned still.

 

[mongo]

and I locked the differential for some rock climbing

I can see that spinning a front tire on the rim. Locking the differential is more for loose/ low friction surfaces. Doing it in on rock combined with turning will stress the drivetrain.

Only way to fix it to get them remounted. Do you have vibration at higher speed now?

 

[ARMANDO PADILLA]

you can already see in the pics i put up already that the driver side front wheel has significant slip on it already at the top of that first hill. the others apear to be aligned still.

climb was strait up and had loose sand and some big rocks no bigger than the size of one wheel and I took it slow why would that damage my drive train a drive train that is made up of only 2 gears for reduction , this thread is not about when is the right time to use the differential locks. someone said, " they can't think of a single scenario that would cause that". yet I have proof and the scenario that does indeed cause this whether I used the dif. locks in the correct situation or not is beside the point.

 

[Crissa]

Tires will slip on the rims given the right amount of talc like materials in the dust. It's a real problem for bikes on the dry lakebeds (playa in Nevada) because the valve stems will get cut.

But I'm baffled why it's a problem here?

-Crissa

 

[ARMANDO PADILLA]

If you go to rougher terrain, you'll want to remove these also:

I tried to remove these but there are a few screws that are not accessible. I did not know what was holding them in but after failing to get them off. I gave up and sure enough I had an encounter with a rock so after breaking the dam thing I could see why i could not remove them there is a screw that was installed from the inside of the running board into the mud flap near the top edge and now that its free from that top edge i can look inside and see at least one more screw that's not accessible. I looked through the manual when I was initially trying to remove them and there are instructions for removing only the front mud flap. For the rear mud flap there are only instructions on how to install them but not remove them. Also, the flaps that are shown installing are not the same as the original ones these have 2 screws that are on the outside and driven strait up into the running board.

I've already ordered a new set from the shop and now they've made it, so you have to buy all 4 even if you just need one. $100
not too long ago like last week they were sold in pairs now all 4 cha-ching! $50+$50 =$100
only need 1 thus $100-$25= ($75 lost down the drain)

 

[ARMANDO PADILLA]

[QUOTE


I've already ordered a new set from the shop and now they've made it, so you have to buy all 4 even if you just need one. $100
not too long ago like last week they were sold in pairs now all 4 cha-ching! $50+$50 =$100
only need 1 thus $100-$25= ($75 lost down the drain)



][/QUOTE]
I mean what's up with that? fuck it why not do everything like that. You need a hubcap? make them buy all four I don't care if they are all the same it's a set, they have to take all 4 or no deal.
Imagine that? ohh your driver side door window needs to be replaced well sorry you'll have to buy the whole set that includes the windshield. if you don't need to replace the windshield and you don't want to you can just throw away the glass parts you don't need. ha-ha ridiculous pretty soon we can all become parts dealers.

 

[mongo]

I tried to remove these but there are a few screws that are not accessible. I did not know what was holding them in but after failing to get them off. I gave up and sure enough I had an encounter with a rock so after breaking the dam thing I could see why i could not remove them there is a screw that was installed from the inside of the running board into the mud flap near the top edge and now that its free from that top edge i can look inside and see at least one more screw that's not accessible. I looked through the manual when I was initially trying to remove them and there are instructions for removing only the front mud flap. For the rear mud flap there are only instructions on how to install them but not remove them. Also, the flaps that are shown installing are not the same as the original ones these have 2 screws that are on the outside and driven strait up into the running board.

I've already ordered a new set from the shop and now they've made it, so you have to buy all 4 even if you just need one. $100
not too long ago like last week they were sold in pairs now all 4 cha-ching! $50+$50 =$100
only need 1 thus $100-$25= ($75 lost down the drain)

It's held on by four screws, I posted the link to the procedure in the service manual, that part only costs $15, the $100 mud flap kit is four pieces that go behind the tires (not in front)

Here is the other section (which was linked from the removal process) for pulling the rocker cover.
Again, you don't need to pull the front wheel fairing and the rear only needs the lower edge unclipped to access the final bolt.
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...UID-1A4ECBC0-507B-40E3-8F12-F6FE45B50981.html

 

[mongo]

climb was strait up and had loose sand and some big rocks no bigger than the size of one wheel and I took it slow why would that damage my drive train a drive train that is made up of only 2 gears for reduction , this thread is not about when is the right time to use the differential locks. someone said, " they can't think of a single scenario that would cause that". yet I have proof and the scenario that does indeed cause this whether I used the dif. locks in the correct situation or not is beside the point.

The differential is more than two gears
Locking the differential then turning on a solid high friction surface creates more torque on the tires than normal driving does due to different path lengths
Have you posted the before/after tire alignment images?

 

[Outdoors]

From my experience and experience with engineers from Hummer group. Tire pressure doesn't need to be lowered as much as one thinks like with jeeps and such.

They and we climbed rock walls at stock pressure with ease. That was the way the Hummer was designed. Using weight to advantage for traction. Unlike much lighter competition.

My thoughts are people are just used to hey if I'm doing something that is in this nature I therefore must do something else.

That doesn't always apply in life and in many things.

As far as wheel slip, I don't know. I think if you lower the pressure to a certain point it's not going to stay attached to the rim but I've never had that problem. I ran at stock pressures on just about everything I have off-roaded on and had absolutely no problems and especially in off-road parks and like I said rock walls.

I do some pretty hardcore two-track that is Rock for the most part but again I don't air down. We have big fluctuating temperatures like 75° during the day and 22 at night this time of year. If I'm up and downing my pressures all the time, that's just a giant pain in the butt.

 

[HaulingAss]

I recently took my cyberbeast offroad and I did the recommended preparations prior to getting offroad.
like remove the wheel covers and mud flaps and i reduced the air pressure in my wheels from 50 to 30psi. while doing this I noticed one of my tires was no longer in alinement with the pattern on the rim.

That's NOT the recommendation! Tesla actually recommends NEVER deflating the OEM AT tires below 36 psi. I knew the tires weren't going to be designed for low pressures off-road before they delivered the first one because dedicated off-road tires suck on the road. Tesla would never deliver a vehicle with tires designed to be deflated to very low pressures. Especially on a truck with as much power and performance of the Cybertruck.

I wouldn't listen to most people's advice on deflation pressures. It's actually hilarious how little most off-roaders who give advice on deflation pressures actually know about the subject. I've seen guys deflate to 15 PSI on regular AT tires designed for the street. You can seriously damage the carcass of tires like this because they are not designed to deform that much and it causes repetitive fatigue fractures of the sidewall reinforcements which can lead to dangerous highway blowouts, even after they are properly aired up. It also makes the tires very suceptible to sidewall cuts, especially while deflated. The way the sidewall plies are laid up, it causes them to flex in a manner that they were not designed to. Agricultural and off-road tires have different constructions, and don't suffer from this, but most people would not be pleased with how they drive on the road.

Well after a day in the sun and dirt out on El Mirage dry lakebed including some hill climbing, I made it up a hill everyone thought I would not make it up. In fact, my 2 passengers who were grown men bailed on me for fear of things going wrong. The guys who were at the top of the hill, already and made it up on a Jeep Rubicon. They were waving me down yelling you won't make it, don't try it. But none of them have driven the cyberbeast so they didn't know. Anyway, I made it no problem.

Yeah, and you probably would have made it just as easily at 40 psi too. If there is a route that you literally can't make it up at 40 psi, then street based tires are the wrong tool for the job. I've lowered mine to 30 psi (yes below Tesla's minimum recommendation), but I knew what I was doing. I only drove them that low on spring snowpack for two miles at speeds below 15 miles per hour and very light payload (no passengers). As soon as I was back to rock, dirt and gravel, I aired them back up. The reason this didn't damage the tires is because the compliance of soft spring snowpack limited the sidewalll flex (relative to rock-crawling). I just needed more floatation, and the snowpack contained no point loads to concentrate the flex. That doesn't mean these were the right tires for the job, it means I was able to do it without damaging them.

Once the tires have been structurally damaged, you can't undo it. You cannot see the damage to the tire's structure, it's internal to the rubber.

 

[mongo]

That's NOT the recommendation! Tesla actually recommends NEVER deflating the OEM AT tires below 36 psi. I knew the tires weren't going to be designed for low pressures off-road before they delivered the first one because dedicated off-road tires suck on the road. Tesla would never deliver a vehicle with tires designed to be deflated to very low pressures. Especially on a truck with as much power and performance of the Cybertruck.

I wouldn't listen to most people's advice on deflation pressures. It's actually hilarious how little most off-roaders who give advice on deflation pressures actually know about the subject. I've seen guys deflate to 15 PSI on regular AT tires designed for the street. You can seriously damage the carcass of tires like this because they are not designed to deform that much and it causes repetitive fatigue fractures of the sidewall reinforcements which can lead to dangerous highway blowouts, even after they are properly aired up. It also makes the tires very suceptible to sidewall cuts, especially while deflated. The way the sidewall plies are laid up, it causes them to flex in a manner that they were not designed to. Agricultural and off-road tires have different constructions, and don't suffer from this, but most people would not be pleased with how they drive on the road.



Yeah, and you probably would have made it just as easily at 40 psi too. If there is a route that you literally can't make it up at 40 psi, then street based tires are the wrong tool for the job. I've lowered mine to 30 psi (yes below Tesla's minimum recommendation), but I knew what I was doing. I only drove them that low on spring snowpack for two miles at speeds below 15 miles per hour and very light payload (no passengers). As soon as I was back to rock, dirt and gravel, I aired them back up. The reason this didn't damage the tires is because the compliance of soft spring snowpack limited the sidewalll flex (relative to rock-crawling). I just needed more floatation, and the snowpack contained no point loads to concentrate the flex. That doesn't mean these were the right tires for the job, it means I was able to do it without damaging them.

Once the tires have been structurally damaged, you can't undo it. You cannot see the damage to the tire's structure, it's internal to the rubber.

Tesla recommends not going below 36 (but doesn't say never). Wes unmounted a tire at 25 psi while drifting.

Silver Lake Dunes in Michigan requires 15 psi or lower. Guess we'll see how the hold up after doing that.

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