Finding always-on 48v in the cabin or bed

[jschall]

I need some always-on power in either the bed or the cabin, to power a refrigerator. 48V 2A would do fine.

I see in the manual there are power feeds on the roof and in the frunk, presumably for lightbar and future accessories.

Very frustrating that they didn't provide some kind of 12V or 48V connector somewhere, and super, super, SUPER lame that the AC power doesn't work while charging from AC. Maybe there's a way I can get DC charging at home? Would be quite the AC-DC converter. Expensive.

I'm thinking I might pull the upper bed side walls since that is really easy and start probing.

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[jschall]

I'd need to verify that the 48v at the power feeds is always-on, but I guess I could run a wire under the roof applique and attach it to the 48v on the roof.

 

[jschall]

Oh FFS I pulled the upper bed side wall, following the service manual, and the plastic clips are apparently made of cake. And the part that is made of cake is molded in to the side wall.

 

[Woodrick]

I'd need to verify that the 48v at the power feeds is always-on, but I guess I could run a wire under the roof applique and attach it to the 48v on the roof.

The 48V on the roof is for the light bar. 100% positive that it isn't going to always be on.

 

[Woodrick]

I need some always-on power in either the bed or the cabin, to power a refrigerator. 48V 2A would do fine.

I see in the manual there are power feeds on the roof and in the frunk, presumably for lightbar and future accessories.

Very frustrating that they didn't provide some kind of 12V or 48V connector somewhere, and super, super, SUPER lame that the AC power doesn't work while charging from AC. Maybe there's a way I can get DC charging at home? Would be quite the AC-DC converter. Expensive.

I'm thinking I might pull the upper bed side walls since that is really easy and start probing.

Your refrigerator pulls 8A @ 12V? That's a LOT.

That's a lot of power to be pulling from the relatively small 48V battery. If the vehicle doesn't get upset and turn the circuit off, it very possibly may cause other issues.

 

[jschall]

Your refrigerator pulls 8A @ 12V? That's a LOT.

That's a lot of power to be pulling from the relatively small 48V battery. If the vehicle doesn't get upset and turn the circuit off, it very possibly may cause other issues.

Idk it comes with a 15V/6A AC adapter and I am going by that.

 

[UberNoob]

Not something I would do. Tampering with the wiring will lead to a void of your warranty. I’d wait till that has lapsed before assuming responsibility of any electrical repairs needed especial as foundations are the Guinea pigs. Example, display goes out, take it in they see the extra circuit blame it on your install and boom your stuck with the 3k bill an so on. Exact reason why I waited to install amp and subs in my M3P.

 

[jschall]

Not something I would do. Tampering with the wiring will lead to a void of your warranty. I’d wait till that has lapsed before assuming responsibility of any electrical repairs needed especial as foundations are the Guinea pigs. Example, display goes out, take it in they see the extra circuit blame it on your install and boom your stuck with the 3k bill an so on. Exact reason why I waited to install amp and subs in my M3P.

Except the power feeds on the roof and in the frunk are meant to power user accessories. I am running a cable from the roof one.

 

[tmeyer3]

I'm just using a battery powered dual zone fridge in the vault. Works GREAT with the AC charging option, tops up as needed and I can move it around and it keeps on goin. I didn't get this specifically for the CT or anything, but highly recommended. Really nice to not have to worry about being plugged in 99%+ of the time. It also let's me know on my phone when the battery is low, so I just throw it back in the truck for an hour or two.

 

[jschall]

I'm gonna check if the fridge's power consumption is <60W. If so, a USB C PD breakout board should be able to power it.

I also ran a 48v power feed to the bed no problem. I am not drilling the bed side wall to add a connector just yet, but I might.

 

[Eyesore]

I'm gonna check if the fridge's power consumption is <60W. If so, a USB C PD breakout board should be able to power it.

I also ran a 48v power feed to the bed no problem. I am not drilling the bed side wall to add a connector just yet, but I might.

I'm going to run a 48V feed from the roof to my bed for a CPAP. Any tips or pics of how you routed the wire?

 

[jschall]

I'm going to run a 48V feed from the roof to my bed for a CPAP. Any tips or pics of how you routed the wire?

Removing the upper bed sidewall is really difficult without breaking the clips.

I would attempt to remove the rooftop applique and the bed floor, and then try to fish the wire through the sail without removing any sidewall. From there I would probably try to make it come out via the tonneau cover slot without interfering with the tonneau cover if possible. Otherwise need to drill somewhere probably.

Though, I just ran the wire out from behind the upper bed sidewall.

For the fridge I ended up running it in the cabin on USB C by getting a USB C battery that is 12v internally and modifying it to get always-on 12v. The fridge averages like 20W but needs the battery to handle its compressor start current.

 

[Eyesore]

I'm now thinking that I'll fish wire under the rooftop applique and drill a hole in the sidewall for a bulkhead DC power socket. There appears to be plenty of room in the sail panel, if you can avoid hitting the casting.

Screengrab from youtube, @Dblcapcrimpin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7f5fvEahKs&t=196s

 

[jschall]

I'm now thinking that I'll fish wire under the rooftop applique and drill a hole in the sidewall for a bulkhead DC power socket. There appears to be plenty of room in the sail panel, if you can avoid hitting the casting.

Screengrab from youtube, @Dblcapcrimpin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7f5fvEahKs&t=196s

Only problem is removing the whole sidewall like that is a bitch and a half. The upper sidewall is easy, but you are highly likely to break the clips, which are made of some sort of cake.

I'd give it a shot without removing any sidewall at all.

 

[Crissa]

Not something I would do. Tampering with the wiring will lead to a void of your warranty.

No. This is flatly, repeatedly, untrue.

They have to prove, and you have your day in front of a mediator or court, that the use, repair, or modification specifically caused the failure to deny warranty use.

Warranty seals, clauses in the warranty, can not stop your legitimate or advertised use cases.

-Crissa

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