Split the 48v power line to a 12v socket in frunk. It now powers the console fridge INSIDE cabin 😎

[Leo Snow]

Nice! I still don’t get how you routed the wire through the interior (from the fridge and to the grommet). Is it going to the grommet from the inside, then behind the right panel (by the passenger door) and then comes out from there and routes the same way I did to the frunk? I believe there’s more ways to do that, but I spend a couple of hours trying to figure out what I did heh

the screenshot with the fishing tape, is there a passage through the metal part of the door frame to the grommet?

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[hemiarch]

Nice! I still don’t get how you routed the wire through the interior (from the fridge and to the grommet). Is it going to the grommet from the inside, then behind the right panel (by the passenger door) and then comes out from there and routes the same way I did to the frunk? I believe there’s more ways to do that, but I spend a couple of hours trying to figure out what I did heh

the screenshot with the fishing tape, is there a passage through the metal part of the door frame to the grommet?

Yes. There is passage there. That’s where the fish tape is going through.
From the fridge it goes straight forward on the passenger side under the fridge-kit hockey stick trim piece (the one that’s cut in half and replaces the factory part) then under the dash where the footwell lights are and then out near where that fish tape is coming out on the inside of the car. That bottom trim piece in the footwell is attached with magnets so very very easy to tuck
All the trim hides it and it’s entirely invisible that way. The auxbeam switch is nice because it also has a reassuring light that the fridge is getting power visible from outside the car.
And also because it gives you individual control of the accessories.

 

[Leo Snow]

Yeah, that's lovely. Really a good idea, I'll probably improve mine this way as well when it gets a bit warmer here to work outside 🤌

 

[hemiarch]

Yes. There is passage there. That’s where the fish tape is going through.
From the fridge it goes straight forward on the passenger side under the fridge-kit hockey stick trim piece (the one that’s cut in half and replaces the factory part) then under the dash where the footwell lights are and then out near where that fish tape is coming out on the inside of the car. That bottom trim piece in the footwell is attached with magnets so very very easy to tuck
All the trim hides it and it’s entirely invisible that way. The auxbeam switch is nice because it also has a reassuring light that the fridge is getting power visible from outside the car.
And also because it gives you individual control of the accessories.

Something even cooler…the @Leo Snow fridge blocks help make it COMPLETELY invisible. Just noticed that

 

[stebb1174]

Tried your method but still ended up going through the grommet. It’s a good approach but I don’t like how the wires sit on the sharp edge under the rubber door

Nice set up! I have a question how are you getting access to the frunk after bringing the wires out through the grommet? Do you have a picture?

Thanks for all the help and inspiration this forum is really great!

 

[hemiarch]

Nice set up! I have a question how are you getting access to the frunk after bringing the wires out through the grommet? Do you have a picture?

Thanks for all the help and inspiration this forum is really great!

Sorry for the delayed response…had a fun Sunday….

Got you a shot with the grommet pulled out so you can see exactly where everything runs. That little rubber flap thing is the only thing separating the space under the mirror where the grommet is and the inside of the passenger side front fender and that’s continuous with the space behind and to the sides of the frunk tub.

 

[stebb1174]

Sorry for the delayed response…had a fun Sunday….

Got you a shot with the grommet pulled out so you can see exactly where everything runs. That little rubber flap thing is the only thing separating the space under the mirror where the grommet is and the inside of the passenger side front fender and that’s continuous with the space behind and to the sides of the frunk tub.

Perfect!!! I see what you did there thanks again! Glad you were able to have some fun today

 

[shopaholic]

Hi all, didn’t want to make a new thread, as i have some questions on the wiring. I am amazed at the size and weight of the “ Victron DC converter” and wondering where people placed it and how to secure it. Regarding the Auxbeam switch panel, is it necessary to use the circuit breaker and ACC connection or can be left alone.

 

[stebb1174]

Hi all, didn’t want to make a new thread, as i have some questions on the wiring. I am amazed at the size and weight of the “ Victron DC converter” and wondering where people placed it and how to secure it. Regarding the Auxbeam switch panel, is it necessary to use the circuit breaker and ACC connection or can be left alone.

I initially bought the Victron Converter but it's wayyy too big will not fit. You need one of those buck converters off Amazon I'd recommend 360W and one with a fuse built in. For the Auxbeam I would hit up @hemiarch he's extremely helpful great resource

Good luck

 

[hemiarch]

I initially bought the Victron Converter but it's wayyy too big will not fit. You need one of those buck converters off Amazon I'd recommend 360W and one with a fuse built in. For the Auxbeam I would hit up @hemiarch he's extremely helpful great resource

Good luck

Thanks Stebb. I actually used t-sportlines buck converter. It has a really nice little bracket and 4 discrete 12v outputs. 350w I think they say?
You do have to power the auxbeam switch and I used one of the 12v outputs to do that. That’s what that acc input is for I think. The connector next to it is where the controller connects.

As you can see it’s a very nice little bracket. One of the outputs in this pic has been replaced with an xt60 but there are 4 deutsch connectors I. It when you get it.
The other side is the input.(the one with the yellow ring around the connector).

There is a nice slot in the wheel well to fasten the auxbeam box

 

[TwiztOG43]

Thanks Stebb. I actually used t-sportlines buck converter. It has a really nice little bracket and 4 discrete 12v outputs. 350w I think they say?
You do have to power the auxbeam switch and I used one of the 12v outputs to do that. That’s what that acc input is for I think. The connector next to it is where the controller connects.

As you can see it’s a very nice little bracket. One of the outputs in this pic has been replaced with an xt60 but there are 4 deutsch connectors I. It when you get it.
The other side is the input.(the one with the yellow ring around the connector).

so it’s pretty much the same as connecting the + and acc wires together on the auxbeam controller side to the 12v from the step down converter

 

[hemiarch]

so it’s pretty much the same as connecting the + and acc wires together on the auxbeam controller side to the 12v from the step down converter

I think I understand what you’re asking…yes. The controller is built for a 12v car so you treat one of the 12v outputs from the buck converter as “the car”.

 

[hemiarch]

FWIW, I know this auxbeam thing seems like a lot of effort but it’s really not that hard and the utility of the install is awesome. It’s a true 12v system which can be controlled nicely from within the cabin and run multiple things.

It’s slick

 

[TwiztOG43]

FWIW, I know this auxbeam thing seems like a lot of effort but it’s really not that hard and the utility of the install is awesome. It’s a true 12v system which can be controlled nicely from within the cabin and run multiple things.

It’s slick

I just received my slim 8 gang.

so to clarify you bypassed the included circuit breaker and wired the step down directly to the + and - on the controller? Did you use the included cables in the auxbeam kit?

the gauge of the wires are pretty large compared to the wires coming from the step down converter which seem to be 14 or 16 gauge

 

[HaulingAss]

Last week I hooked my new Starlink Mini up by splicing directly into the frunk 48V accessory power feed. It's been running fine and no smoke has been released, LOL!

The included Starlink power cord is plenty long for this but the wire is too fat, because it needs to be a large enough gauge to supply the Mini with snowmelt capability and all the current required for those who run it off 12 volts.

Since I extended the power at the full 48 volts it needs less copper (one fourth the cross sectional area). So I just ran two 18 AWG copper wires with thin but tough sheaths, and fused the circuit extension with a 3 amp fuse at the connection to the accessory 18 volt feed. Works great. The Mini is on suction cups, behind my roof sunscreen, just aft of the B pillar roof beam. Honestly, I think it's unlikely to injure anyone in an accident there due to it's position and how light it is.

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