Split the 48v power line to a 12v socket in frunk. It now powers the console fridge INSIDE cabin 😎

[hemiarch]

I just received my slim 8 gang.

so to clarify you bypassed the included circuit breaker and wired the step down directly to the + and - on the controller? Did you use the included cables in the auxbeam kit?

the gauge of the wires are pretty large compared to the wires coming from the step down converter which seem to be 14 or 16 gauge

I put a female deutsch connector on the wires that came with the auxbeam and connected it to one output on the stepdown converter. That’s to power the switch.

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[hemiarch]

I just received my slim 8 gang.

so to clarify you bypassed the included circuit breaker and wired the step down directly to the + and - on the controller? Did you use the included cables in the auxbeam kit?

the gauge of the wires are pretty large compared to the wires coming from the step down converter which seem to be 14 or 16 gauge

Now you’re making me jealous. Maybe I should have gone with the 8 gang.
The mounts look a little different but 8 channels would be cool.
Hmmm..what would I do with those?
What’s your plan? What are you going to switch with it?

 

[TwiztOG43]

I put a female deutsch connector on the wires that came with the auxbeam and connected it to one output on the stepdown converter. That’s to power the switch.

hmm,

Now you’re making me jealous. Maybe I should have gone with the 8 gang.
The mounts look a little different but 8 channels would be cool.
Hmmm..what would I do with those?
What’s your plan? What are you going to switch with it?

I have the CybertruckCo Baja Designs front fogs as well as the CyberGear fridge. I’d like to add another 12v in the frunk as well. Also looking to add lights in my Urander Bed Cap for the dogs since the bed lights do not stay on while the truck is in motion.

im just not seeing how you were able to add deutsch connectors on the wires provided, unless our kit is different. But the wires provided in my kit are probably 6 or 8 gauge compared to the step down which looks to be maybe 18 gauge.

 

[hemiarch]

hmm,

I have the CybertruckCo Baja Designs front fogs as well as the CyberGear fridge. I’d like to add another 12v in the frunk as well. Also looking to add lights in my Urander Bed Cap for the dogs since the bed lights do not stay on while the truck is in motion.

im just not seeing how you were able to add deutsch connectors on the wires provided, unless our kit is different. But the wires provided in my kit are probably 6 or 8 gauge compared to the step down which looks to be maybe 18 gauge.

I’ll ask @CT_AZ_4x4 to comment. He’s a good friend who has a similar setup on his truck and we split the work of doing this. I ran the wires from the cabin while he hooked up the connectors to the step down convertor. I’m 90% sure it was the wires that came with the auxbeam that made this connection.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

I’ll ask @CT_AZ_4x4 to comment. He’s a good friend who has a similar setup on his truck and we split the work of doing this. I ran the wires from the cabin while he hooked up the connectors to the step down convertor. I’m 90% sure it was the wires that came with the auxbeam that made this connection.

Hi, TwiztOG43;

The cabling in your photo was not used. I had two spools of 16-gauge wire and we cut that to length where needed. We powered the Auxbeam from the Buck converter’s 12v output. You might try tying the Auxbeam’s negative directly to the OEM Tesla negative (black with blue stripe) to possibly avoid an intermittent gremlin in the Auxbeam switch where powered Auxbeam switched devices on Hemiarch’s truck are randomly turning off. We are still troubleshooting this, as far as I know. Ace, are individual switches still randomly shutting themselves off? How has the Auxbeam been performing? I’ve got my Auxbeam powered from my Li Ion winch battery, and in about of month of use I’ve only noticed my powered switch toggle off a single time and that might have been human error.

 

[hemiarch]

Hi, TwiztOG43;

The cabling in your photo was not used. I had two spools of 16-gauge wire and we cut that to length where needed. We powered the Auxbeam from the Buck converter’s 12v output. You might try tying the Auxbeam’s negative directly to the OEM Tesla negative (black with blue stripe) to possibly avoid an intermittent gremlin in the Auxbeam switch where powered Auxbeam switched devices on Hemiarch’s truck are randomly turning off. We are still troubleshooting this, as far as I know. Ace, are individual switches still randomly shutting themselves off? How has the Auxbeam been performing? I’ve got my Auxbeam powered from my Li Ion winch battery, and in about of month of use I’ve only noticed my powered switch toggle off a single time and that might have been human error.

They are largely staying on but they have switched off a couple of times. Doesn’t seem to be related to whether the car or frunk power supply turns off.
Thanks for commenting. Couldn’t quite remember what wire we used for that part.

 

[TwiztOG43]

Hi, TwiztOG43;

The cabling in your photo was not used. I had two spools of 16-gauge wire and we cut that to length where needed. We powered the Auxbeam from the Buck converter’s 12v output. You might try tying the Auxbeam’s negative directly to the OEM Tesla negative (black with blue stripe) to possibly avoid an intermittent gremlin in the Auxbeam switch where powered Auxbeam switched devices on Hemiarch’s truck are randomly turning off. We are still troubleshooting this, as far as I know. Ace, are individual switches still randomly shutting themselves off? How has the Auxbeam been performing? I’ve got my Auxbeam powered from my Li Ion winch battery, and in about of month of use I’ve only noticed my powered switch toggle off a single time and that might have been human error.

Thank you so much! So in regards to the included auxbeam circuit breaker, that was not used. And as for the ACC wire you just tied into the the Buck converter’s 12v output?

I do not have the Tsportline Buck converter which is rated at 350w with the four 12v output wires. I have the included Buck converter from CybertruckCo which only has one 12v output and rated at 240w.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

Thank you so much! So in regards to the included auxbeam circuit breaker, that was not used. And as for the ACC wire you just tied into the the Buck converter’s 12v output?

Correct on both counts.

 

[shopaholic]

Hi all,
I was doing my frunk splits with Auxbeam setup and have a question, asked before but not clear to me. The Auxbeam unit came with very heavy guage wires, ? 8AWG. Do you need to use these to connect to the 12v converter or can use 12AWG wire which is more manageable. The output from Auxbeam to a 12v cigarette light socket and another run to fog lamps (30w) also need heavy gauge or a 12AWG is good enough? Thanks

 

[hemiarch]

Hi all,
I was doing my frunk splits with Auxbeam setup and have a question, asked before but not clear to me. The Auxbeam unit came with very heavy guage wires, ? 8AWG. Do you need to use these to connect to the 12v converter or can use 12AWG wire which is more manageable. The output from Auxbeam to a 12v cigarette light socket and another run to fog lamps (30w) also need heavy gauge or a 12AWG is good enough? Thanks

Sorry if the prior answers were confusing. In my opinion, since the maximum output from the frunk outlet is 400w, that means the same is true for the post buck converter wattage. In fact, even less because the convertor is rated at 350w. (240w in your case) So at the very most those wires will carry 400w/13.6v which is just shy of 30 amps in the most extreme of circumstances when everything is drawing at once. Since the length of that little run of wire from the buck converter to the auxbeam switch box is very short (<2ft) a 14g wire should be enough to be perfectly safe. Probably even smaller if you ignore the above added safety margin assumptions.

Short answer, 12AWG is perfectly safe and please accept my apology if that was previously ambiguous in my answers.

 

[shopaholic]

Sorry if the prior answers were confusing. In my opinion, since the maximum output from the frunk outlet is 400w, that means the same is true for the post buck converter wattage. In fact, even less because the convertor is rated at 350w. So at the very most those wires will carry 400w/13.6v which is just shy of 30 amps in the most extreme of circumstances when everything is drawing at once. Since the length of that little run of wire from the buck converter to the auxbeam switch box is very short (<2ft) a 14g wire should be enough to be perfectly safe. Probably even smaller if you ignore the above added safety margin assumptions.

Thanks for the rapid response! What gauge wires did you use to connect the Auxbeam input to the buck converter. I am asking because the unit is shipped with heavy guage stuff.

 

[hemiarch]

Thanks for the rapid response! What gauge wires did you use to connect the Auxbeam input to the buck converter. I am asking because the unit is shipped with heavy guage stuff.

Yes. Those wires in the package would be appropriate if you were going to run say 4 x400w far away lightbars on it simultaneously powered by your big ICE vehicle battery and alternator but in our use case there is no way you can ever exceed 400w. The Tesla won’t let you, the electronic fuse will end that party before it starts.
you do not NEED the 8awg but if you want to use it and can somehow make it fit, it won’t hurt. Just not necessary.
As for what I used, like I said, I can’t remember without taking out my frunk tub if it was 14 or 16 because Jay worked on that part of the wiring while I was setting stuff up in the cabin and routing the post-switch wires. He’s the kind of friend you can comfortably divide and conquer with. Sometimes we just work alongside each other without much compulsion to talk at all. It’s pretty fabulous actually.
I have no concerns about either of those gauges (14 or 16) no matter which he used and it had to be one of the two.

 

[TwiztOG43]

14 gauge per Jay, directly from the buck converter to the auxbeam controller and tied in the ACC to the Positive

 

[hemiarch]

14 gauge per Jay, directly from the buck converter to the auxbeam controller and tied in the ACC to the Positive

Perfect. I hope the math maths for you. I think this decision is perfectly safe for our application.

 

[TwiztOG43]

Perfect. I hope the math maths for you. I think this decision is perfectly safe for our application.

So far so good! Just wish the power feed would always stay on. Sometimes I would get back in the truck and it would be off.

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