CYBERBRITE--Cybertruck De-staining and Passivation Solution (REDUCED INTRODUCTION PRICE $23.95)

[turns2stone]

No risk to the stainless. I use goof off in my profession to remove adhesives. If something was wiped on. , the goof off should remove it. If it’s not a manufacturing flaw in the stainless, whatever is on it did not penetrate the stainless. I’ll be interested in the results.
Gary

No it's not a manufacturing flaw, as it wasn't there when I picked it up. I noticed it after my (mis-step) initial application of Cyberbrite, when I didn't rinse it properly and drove around for a week without a rinse, which left some staining. Most of the similar blemishes came off when I followed the proper steps for Round #2, I just have a few areas left.

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[Mark Lindgren]

Hi Gary: I just want to let you know. I used your cyberbrite today on my truck which had considerable rust pits around the perimeters. It took three coats, but it turned out very well. I’m sending pictures.

 

[CYBERBRITE1]

Hi Gary: I just want to let you know. I used your cyberbrite today on my truck which had considerable rust pits around the perimeters. It took three coats, but it turned out very well. I’m sending pictures.

Thanks for the feedback. The pic will help as we move forward.
Gary

 

[CYBERBRITE1]

I am a little stumped on this one. If nothing removes it that means the stainless has scratches. Scratches in stainless can be removed by polishing with a “scotch bright” woven fiber pads. The issue is that Cybertruck’s have different scotch bright grit finishes making matches challenging. This leaves 2 options. Have a professional match the finish or DIY. I am attaching woven fiber disk options you may want to try yourself. Amazon (SUGGESTION OPTIONS HERE NO GUARANTEES!)
Gary

 

[DECO]

Before and after. Better…. I’m not sure.

 

[turns2stone]

Hi Gary @CYBERBRITE1 or anyone else familiar with this solution.

I'm still impressed with the results, my review is posted above.

However, I have a couple of areas on the lower portion of the passenger door that I can't seem to de-stain. Things I have tried:

1. Wash throughly with my standard car wash solution/process (works great everywhere else)
2. Dry
3. Vigorously apply heavy application of 91% isopropyl alcohol with microfiber towel
4. Apply Cyberbrite, 2-3 coats, allowing drying between each.
5. Rinse

Yet stains are still there. I have done the above process 2X, a week apart. No improvement.

Any advice appreciated!

Following up on this...

Some liquid Bar Keeper's Friend and re-application of Cyberbrite fixed all this.

 

[CYBERBRITE1]

Before and after. Better…. I’m not sure.

Hi, The pic is a little difficult to fully see what's going on. Are these spots over the entire truck? Has the truck ever been coated with anything? Ceramic or other protective coating. Did you allow Cyberbrite to stay wet on the truck for a minimum of 15 min. (longer would be better) Did you apply the second coat over the first keeping the application cloth clean? Any application details you can share may help me to diagnose the problem.
Gary

 

[DECO]

Hi, The pic is a little difficult to fully see what's going on. Are these spots over the entire truck? Has the truck ever been coated with anything? Ceramic or other protective coating. Did you allow Cyberbrite to stay wet on the truck for a minimum of 15 min. (longer would be better) Did you apply the second coat over the first keeping the application cloth clean? Any application details you can share may help me to diagnose the problem.
Gary

Nothing has ever been applied to the truck. Only car wash sprayer soap and rinse. Spots are mostly on the sides and back of the truck. The spots appeared early 2025 when we were driving in snow up in the mountains of Vail Colorado. Thinking it was something put on the roads or something. Followed written directions that indicated 10 minutes per each coat. I feel like it brightened the steel but didn’t do much for the spots. Larger pic, zoom in to see spots.

 

[Dazureus]

Not sure if we're supposed to post our results to this thread or start a new one, but here are mine.

Background: Foundation Beast in Michigan, second winter. First year I cleaned all the post winter road contamination with a wash and synthetic clay bar. Did a good job removing nearly all the stains. Had to remove remaining stains with a scotchbrite pad, which caused some mismatched swirl marks, but not super annoying. Treated with the recommended Citrisurf and maintained clean with waterless wash and Sprayway.

This winter I might have washed the truck twice with a touchless car wash. My main concern was the front fenders and right in front of the rear wheel well fairings. I've noticed a white crust that accumulates after the winter that required mechanical removal. I suspected it was from salt accumulation, but washing alone doesn't remove it.

Process:
I washed the car with a foam canon and wash mit to remove the bulk of dirt. Left with surface staining. Sprayed with Iron-X (new to my process this year) and power washed to remove. Dried and applied Cyberbrite as suggested with two coats for 10-15 minutes dwell time each. I found that, even when applied in the garage out of the sun on a mild day (65 degrees), the application would start to dry within the 10-15 minute time, but I ran with it and still had good results.

On to the pictures.

Front fender contamination on the leading edge of the metal, pre-wash.

Front fender contamination after soap/hand wash. This would be removed by the Cyberbrite application either by chemical process, or mechanical buffing with the cloth.

A stainless steel badge pre-hand wash. Some rusting on the badge itself, and notice the dark contamination on the truck steel.

Badge during application of Iron-X

Badge and truck after application of Cyberbrite. I didn't attempt to decontaminate with the Cyberbrite alone since I was looking at so much contamination. The Cyberbrite certainly brings back the silver color or the steel, removing the general brown discoloration.

Passenger side door panel. A good look at the contamination I was dealing with.

Tailgate post wash, pre Iron-X. The little spots of contamination were all over the vehicle. Spraying the Iron-X requires less labor than applying the Cyberbrite, so I think it's a good step.

Tailgate post Cyberbrite. You can see how much more silver the stainless steel becomes. Even after the Iron-X, some of the brown patina remains. The Cyberbrite appears to remove this discoloration.

Two areas that will require more attention. The weep hole on my driver door has some rust that wasn't sprayed with Iron-X, but I did attempt to use Cyberbrite to remove. It didn't remove the rust completely, but did lessen it. Also the passenger side still has some slight discoloration near the edges of the door panels even after all cleaning and treatments. I plan to target these areas with additional applications of Cyberbrite or precleaning with with BKF, then passivating it with Cyberbrite.

Conclusion:
Cleaning this year with wash/Iron-X/Cyberbrite was much less labor intensive than previous methods of wash/claybar/BKF/acid neutrilizing/Citrisurf and will probably be my spring cleaning regime going forward. I'll probably still maintain via waterless wash and sprayway during the warmer months.

Additional information: I test applied DIY Detail Metal coating to the hood and front to see if gaining some hydrophobic properties could help keep it cleaner. While it felt a little slicker, it does not appear to prevent water staining after rain. Perhaps I didn't apply it properly, but it doesn't appear to be an effective way to keep the truck clean.

 

[CYBERBRITE1]

Not sure if we're supposed to post our results to this thread or start a new one, but here are mine.

Background: Foundation Beast in Michigan, second winter. First year I cleaned all the post winter road contamination with a wash and synthetic clay bar. Did a good job removing nearly all the stains. Had to remove remaining stains with a scotchbrite pad, which caused some mismatched swirl marks, but not super annoying. Treated with the recommended Citrisurf and maintained clean with waterless wash and Sprayway.

This winter I might have washed the truck twice with a touchless car wash. My main concern was the front fenders and right in front of the rear wheel well fairings. I've noticed a white crust that accumulates after the winter that required mechanical removal. I suspected it was from salt accumulation, but washing alone doesn't remove it.

Process:
I washed the car with a foam canon and wash mit to remove the bulk of dirt. Left with surface staining. Sprayed with Iron-X (new to my process this year) and power washed to remove. Dried and applied Cyberbrite as suggested with two coats for 10-15 minutes dwell time each. I found that, even when applied in the garage out of the sun on a mild day (65 degrees), the application would start to dry within the 10-15 minute time, but I ran with it and still had good results.

On to the pictures.

Front fender contamination on the leading edge of the metal, pre-wash.

Front fender contamination after soap/hand wash. This would be removed by the Cyberbrite application either by chemical process, or mechanical buffing with the cloth.

A stainless steel badge pre-hand wash. Some rusting on the badge itself, and notice the dark contamination on the truck steel.

Badge during application of Iron-X

Badge and truck after application of Cyberbrite. I didn't attempt to decontaminate with the Cyberbrite alone since I was looking at so much contamination. The Cyberbrite certainly brings back the silver color or the steel, removing the general brown discoloration.

Passenger side door panel. A good look at the contamination I was dealing with.

Tailgate post wash, pre Iron-X. The little spots of contamination were all over the vehicle. Spraying the Iron-X requires less labor than applying the Cyberbrite, so I think it's a good step.

Tailgate post Cyberbrite. You can see how much more silver the stainless steel becomes. Even after the Iron-X, some of the brown patina remains. The Cyberbrite appears to remove this discoloration.

Two areas that will require more attention. The weep hole on my driver door has some rust that wasn't sprayed with Iron-X, but I did attempt to use Cyberbrite to remove. It didn't remove the rust completely, but did lessen it. Also the passenger side still has some slight discoloration near the edges of the door panels even after all cleaning and treatments. I plan to target these areas with additional applications of Cyberbrite or precleaning with with BKF, then passivating it with Cyberbrite.

Conclusion:
Cleaning this year with wash/Iron-X/Cyberbrite was much less labor intensive than previous methods of wash/claybar/BKF/acid neutrilizing/Citrisurf and will probably be my spring cleaning regime going forward. I'll probably still maintain via waterless wash and sprayway during the warmer months.

Additional information: I test applied DIY Detail Metal coating to the hood and front to see if gaining some hydrophobic properties could help keep it cleaner. While it felt a little slicker, it does not appear to prevent water staining after rain. Perhaps I didn't apply it properly, but it doesn't appear to be an effective way to keep the truck clean.

Hi, thank your for taking the time to leave your comprehensive review. It documents how CYBERBRITE will work in diverse conditions that, as a starting small business in Texas, we would have a difficult time in duplicating and relaying results to potential customers. Your review, along with others, validate the effectiveness of CYBERBRITE in diverse conditions.
Sincerely,
Gary

 

[CYBERBRITE1]

Not sure if we're supposed to post our results to this thread or start a new one, but here are mine.

Background: Foundation Beast in Michigan, second winter. First year I cleaned all the post winter road contamination with a wash and synthetic clay bar. Did a good job removing nearly all the stains. Had to remove remaining stains with a scotchbrite pad, which caused some mismatched swirl marks, but not super annoying. Treated with the recommended Citrisurf and maintained clean with waterless wash and Sprayway.

This winter I might have washed the truck twice with a touchless car wash. My main concern was the front fenders and right in front of the rear wheel well fairings. I've noticed a white crust that accumulates after the winter that required mechanical removal. I suspected it was from salt accumulation, but washing alone doesn't remove it.

Process:
I washed the car with a foam canon and wash mit to remove the bulk of dirt. Left with surface staining. Sprayed with Iron-X (new to my process this year) and power washed to remove. Dried and applied Cyberbrite as suggested with two coats for 10-15 minutes dwell time each. I found that, even when applied in the garage out of the sun on a mild day (65 degrees), the application would start to dry within the 10-15 minute time, but I ran with it and still had good results.

On to the pictures.

Front fender contamination on the leading edge of the metal, pre-wash.

Front fender contamination after soap/hand wash. This would be removed by the Cyberbrite application either by chemical process, or mechanical buffing with the cloth.

A stainless steel badge pre-hand wash. Some rusting on the badge itself, and notice the dark contamination on the truck steel.

Badge during application of Iron-X

Badge and truck after application of Cyberbrite. I didn't attempt to decontaminate with the Cyberbrite alone since I was looking at so much contamination. The Cyberbrite certainly brings back the silver color or the steel, removing the general brown discoloration.

Passenger side door panel. A good look at the contamination I was dealing with.

Tailgate post wash, pre Iron-X. The little spots of contamination were all over the vehicle. Spraying the Iron-X requires less labor than applying the Cyberbrite, so I think it's a good step.

Tailgate post Cyberbrite. You can see how much more silver the stainless steel becomes. Even after the Iron-X, some of the brown patina remains. The Cyberbrite appears to remove this discoloration.

Two areas that will require more attention. The weep hole on my driver door has some rust that wasn't sprayed with Iron-X, but I did attempt to use Cyberbrite to remove. It didn't remove the rust completely, but did lessen it. Also the passenger side still has some slight discoloration near the edges of the door panels even after all cleaning and treatments. I plan to target these areas with additional applications of Cyberbrite or precleaning with with BKF, then passivating it with Cyberbrite.

Conclusion:
Cleaning this year with wash/Iron-X/Cyberbrite was much less labor intensive than previous methods of wash/claybar/BKF/acid neutrilizing/Citrisurf and will probably be my spring cleaning regime going forward. I'll probably still maintain via waterless wash and sprayway during the warmer months.

Additional information: I test applied DIY Detail Metal coating to the hood and front to see if gaining some hydrophobic properties could help keep it cleaner. While it felt a little slicker, it does not appear to prevent water staining after rain. Perhaps I didn't apply it properly, but it doesn't appear to be an effective way to keep the truck clean.

Hi, would it be ok for me to share/post your review on other online venues?
Gary

 

[Dazureus]

Hi, would it be ok for me to share/post your review on other online venues?
Gary

Absolutely.

 

[Du Fly]

Cyberbrite Test Results – Real-World Application Review

First, thank you to Gary for providing the complimentary bottle—much appreciated for the opportunity to test this on my truck.
I followed the recommended process throughout and will highlight a few key nuances from my experience:

Process Overview:

• Began with a full foam soak followed by a proper foam wash using a mitt
• Vehicle was dried, though winter-related water staining remained

Initial Attempt (Outdoor Application):
My first application was completed outside early in the morning (approximately 8:00 AM, ~65°F, shaded). This proved to be less than ideal. The product dried significantly faster than expected—within minutes rather than the intended ~10 minutes.

• Attempted a heavier second application, but experienced the same result
• Ultimately rinsed and reset for a second attempt

Second Attempt (Garage Application):
Applying indoors yielded much better control over the process. Under similar temperatures, I was able to:

• Achieve ~8 minutes of dwell time before applying a second coat
• Treat the tailgate and one full side of the vehicle
• Rinse with a pressure washer and follow with a mitt wash

Results:

• Positive: Cyberbrite noticeably reduced water spotting, particularly in areas with lighter deposits
• Limitation: Heavier, more embedded stains were improved but not fully removed
• To fully restore the finish, I ultimately used a Bar Keepers Friend method to reset the baseline

Overall Impression: While it didn’t fully deliver the deep-clean restoration I was hoping for post-winter, I do see strong value in Cyberbrite as a maintenance product. I plan to reapply once weather conditions stabilize and expect it to perform well in preventing buildup moving forward—especially with regular use in Pacific Northwest conditions.

Thanks again, Gary—I’ll be placing another order and look forward to seeing how it performs over time.

 

[soonerdy]

Ha, I wasn’t thinking deep enough, that’s actually my kind of humor, Thanks
Gary

That's because I didn't successfully quote the other poster, I thought I had.

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