All Season Tires (Pirelli Scorpion AS) + 20" Inch Core Wheels + Wheel Covers Are Here! -- My Real World Range / Consumption Data 📊

[stkgator]

So, that's something to think about. I can't explain the big bump at 70 mph, but that's what we got. Maybe someone has some insight into that.

Air resistance increases exponentially with the increase in speed: an increase in speed will result in a much greater increase in air resistance. In addition, the power required to push a vehicle through the increased air resistance increases even higher.

A simple example: a 10% increase in speed could result in a 20% increase in resistance and a 40% increase in required power.

Air resistance is not a major concern at speeds below 60MPH, but as your tests show, efficiency drops dramatically at higher speeds.

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[Michaelsully13]

Does anyone know the cost for the Pirelli Scorpion Tires? I see them in the parts catalog now finally.

 

[jookyone]

Thank you for doing this!!!

BTW, this shows quite well the old EV adage:

The slower you go, the faster you get there!

On long trips, it's usually faster to go the speed limit in between supercharging vs. speeding to the next supercharger, where you have to stop at an earlier one and charge longer.

Definitely not true. Supercharger speeds always exceed the speed you should be driving in a car. I've been driving Tesla's for almost a decade, and as long as you have enough juice to make it to the next charger it is always faster to go as fast as legally possible.

 

[MisterChilidog]

So CT comes on Pirelli Scorpions from the factory ? NICE!
It would be great to hear that they upgrade the battery to dry cathode as well (as on the test unit) Tesla mentioned that it may happen before end of the year - this would increase range 10-20 % - which means that with lower speeds close to 500 miles would be possible

Where are you getting the DBE-Cathode = 10-20% range improvement figure from? My understanding was that DBE was a manufacturing cost-reduction, rather than an energy density increase.

 

[Gene]

https://www.torquenews.com/11826/i-...wheels-unsightly-core-wheels-pirelli-scorpion

 

[zeke]

To add to the data points, here are the first 6000k miles on my AWD CT on stock all terrain tires. It tells the story a bit better to split wh/mi by speed and temperature. I'll have some great data after this first winter here in NH, and maybe I switch to the all season tires and get another year's worth of data on those.

 

[HaulingAss]

I was specifically talking about NORMAL speeds (i.e. going 70-75 vs. 80-85 on most interstates where 70 is the speed limit). Also, the Cybertruck does not charge anywhere near 1,000 miles per hour (yet!). When I had my 2017 Model S 100D, this was very much true, and I'd argue that the Cybertruck is similar, if not worse. We're traveling across the state next month, and I will report back on both speed ranges and charging times...

Whatever "normal" speeds are to you will not change the analysis. The faster you go in a Model 3 or a Model S, the sooner you can arrive. Likewise, even if the Cybertruck can only charge at 400 mph, it's still not going to be slower to charge more and go faster. I'm not recommending speeding simply so you can arrive slightly sooner, but facts are facts.

I'm saying the old EV adage that "The slower you go, the quicker you get there" is factually incorrect now that we have Superchargers. It would probably be true on a 50 kW charger, and it would certainly be true if using Level II charging. It's false if Supercharging between 10% and 50 or 60%.

Not trying to pick a fight, but I am a fan of not spreading false information.

 

[Demonhaze]

Ok, so please help.... after reading how much mileage people are getting on here I feel I'm either missing something or there's an issue with mine... My truck is at a little over 7k miles and when I fully charge It only says 312 miles and originally started at 322, but I only get around 260 miles.... and that's with being as conservative with speed as humanly possible... I do not do any launches and I accelerate slowly and only go the speed limit which is between 60-70mph I have AT tires and no wheel covers, but I feel I'm getting nowhere near the range I should be.... I live in texas.

 

[ModelXer]

Just took delivery, tactical grey , AS tires. Pirelli Scorpions. Looks good to me!

Now. First take on range. Driving home, consumption was 304 wh/mile! This is around 370 miles on a full charge, mixed city driving, about half freeways. Next trip, streets only, light traffic, 97 degrees, BTW, and 285 wh/mile which works out to about 400 miles range.

I am stunned. Can this possibly hold up? We'll see, but great so far.

I like those wheels and wheel covers. Better than the original heavy treads and odd covers.

 

[DJAlan2000]

Ok, so please help.... after reading how much mileage people are getting on here I feel I'm either missing something or there's an issue with mine... My truck is at a little over 7k miles and when I fully charge It only says 312 miles and originally started at 322, but I only get around 260 miles.... and that's with being as conservative with speed as humanly possible... I do not do any launches and I accelerate slowly and only go the speed limit which is between 60-70mph I have AT tires and no wheel covers, but I feel I'm getting nowhere near the range I should be.... I live in texas.

First thing to check is tire pressure. Make sure it's at it's maximum rated/recommended for ALL the tires.

Also, you've driven over 7K miles now, have you rotated your tires (and had them rebalanced as well). Sometimes, your tires can make a HUGE difference.

Next I would check to see what 'stuff' you are carrying all the time... At first with my Model Y, I was carrying all sorts of things and when I took it all out to wash/vacuum and such, I actually ended up with a pretty big pile of stuff that I really did NOT need to be carrying all the time... Probably about 100 lbs of 'junk' was then left out of the car... That ACTUALLY made a difference, especially on 'freeway' use...

You could also make sure your car is in 'Chill' mode as well...

Try NOT to use the heater and AC... If it's cold out, use the seat warmers instead, they are MUCH more efficient at making you 'warm and toasty' while saving battery... Also, try to keep your temperature closer to the outside temp... ie: if it's 69 degrees outside and you have your car set to 72 degrees, try changing it to 69 or 70... Any time you're 'inside' temp is more than 5 degrees different from the outside temp, your car wants you to be comfortable and will run the HVAC system to do just that! Adjust it a few degrees higher/lower to get closer to a match...

Check to see what else is running that you don't need... What else is plugged in? Are you charging up several devices?

All the LITTLE things end up adding up to one 'bigger' load...

Next, I would also check the 'energy' icon and see just what is using more than 'expected' (uphills, speeds over 70, etc. all show up there).

 

[HaulingAss]

Ok, so please help.... after reading how much mileage people are getting on here I feel I'm either missing something or there's an issue with mine... My truck is at a little over 7k miles and when I fully charge It only says 312 miles and originally started at 322, but I only get around 260 miles.... and that's with being as conservative with speed as humanly possible... I do not do any launches and I accelerate slowly and only go the speed limit which is between 60-70mph I have AT tires and no wheel covers, but I feel I'm getting nowhere near the range I should be.... I live in texas.

It could be your wheel alignment, that makes a huge difference. Even two identical vehicles that are both in spec for wheel alignment can return quite different efficiency numbers if the wheels are on opposite sides of the allowable alignment spec range.

You might think warm tire pressure is the correct pressure. Always measure tire pressure first thing in the morning, before the sun has warmed some tires up and before driving on them. And for sure, make sure the pressures are the same on each tire. Not within 2 psi, the same. This is not possible if the sun has been shining on some tires and not others.

You could have a brake that is dragging. I make it a point to give my brakes a workout occasionally, especially during winter when driving through a lot of de-icer and winter sand and slop.

Here's a big one that is often over-looked: Not being very adept with throttle modulation. It's important to get in the habit of using a right foot placement that is consistent from drive to drive and correctly positioned for good throttle control. Some motorists unconsciously modulate the throttle up and down when they should be driving at a steady-state speed. This will cause efficiency to plummet.

Related to poor throttle modulation is using traffic aware cruise control when following cars that are not doing a good job of mainting a steady speed. It's more efficient to adjust the set speed so the cruise control doesn't have to modulate the throttle constantly to accomodate the varying speed of the car in front. Note: The Cruise Control will modulate the throttle in such situations more efficiently than almost any human could hope to. The more you use cruise control, the better your efficiency will probably be.

 

[Demonhaze]

It could be your wheel alignment, that makes a huge difference. Even two identical vehicles that are both in spec for wheel alignment can return quite different efficiency numbers if the wheels are on opposite sides of the allowable alignment spec range.

You might think warm tire pressure is the correct pressure. Always measure tire pressure first thing in the morning, before the sun has warmed some tires up and before driving on them. And for sure, make sure the pressures are the same on each tire. Not within 2 psi, the same. This is not possible if the sun has been shining on some tires and not others.

You could have a brake that is dragging. I make it a point to give my brakes a workout occasionally, especially during winter when driving through a lot of de-icer and winter sand and slop.

Here's a big one that is often over-looked: Not being very adept with throttle modulation. It's important to get in the habit of using a right foot placement that is consistent from drive to drive and correctly positioned for good throttle control. Some motorists unconsciously modulate the throttle up and down when they should be driving at a steady-state speed. This will cause efficiency to plummet.

Related to poor throttle modulation is using traffic aware cruise control when following cars that are not doing a good job of mainting a steady speed. It's more efficient to adjust the set speed so the cruise control doesn't have to modulate the throttle constantly to accomodate the varying speed of the car in front. Note: The Cruise Control will modulate the throttle in such situations more efficiently than almost any human could hope to. The more you use cruise control, the better your efficiency will probably be.

I have checked and done all of the above... I watch my throttle the entire time and yes I make sure I am not making it go up and down as I drive... I have already learned to coast and gain speed on downhill areas and hold the speed I want almost perfectly... and I don't drive anywhere cold... it's texas haha.

 

[MadMaxTX]

Air resistance increases exponentially with the increase in speed: an increase in speed will result in a much greater increase in air resistance. In addition, the power required to push a vehicle through the increased air resistance increases even higher.

A simple example: a 10% increase in speed could result in a 20% increase in resistance and a 40% increase in required power.

Air resistance is not a major concern at speeds below 60MPH, but as your tests show, efficiency drops dramatically at higher speeds.

Sure, it goes like v**2 but that's not the puzzling thing. It's why there is a bump at 70 mph. It's increase in energy usage is larger than at 75%. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

[stkgator]

Sure, it goes like v**2 but that's not the puzzling thing. It's why there is a bump at 70 mph. It's increase in energy usage is larger than at 75%. Maybe I'm missing something.

While resistance does increase as a square (v**2) of speed, the power, which is what you are measuring, increases as a cube (v**3) of speed. There is also a point at which the air flow across the vehicle becomes "turbulent" after which resistance and power can go off the charts. The aerodynamics of a vehicle are usually optimized for a certain speed range. It's possible that this speed for the CT is around 70 mph. From my driving experience with my MXLR, I have found the sweet spot to maximize both speed and efficiency is around 78 mph. Wind, temperature, and humidity also affect resistance and the speed when turbulent flow starts - which could have changed between your tests. Minor changes in any of these variables could change power usage dramatically.

 

[Speedr]

Whatever "normal" speeds are to you will not change the analysis. The faster you go in a Model 3 or a Model S, the sooner you can arrive. Likewise, even if the Cybertruck can only charge at 400 mph, it's still not going to be slower to charge more and go faster. I'm not recommending speeding simply so you can arrive slightly sooner, but facts are facts.

I'm saying the old EV adage that "The slower you go, the quicker you get there" is factually incorrect now that we have Superchargers. It would probably be true on a 50 kW charger, and it would certainly be true if using Level II charging. It's false if Supercharging between 10% and 50 or 60%.

Not trying to pick a fight, but I am a fan of not spreading false information.

Those are PEAK charging speeds. They only last for a few minutes before they start tapering.

Don't take my word for it. Go on A Better Route Planner (https://abetterrouteplanner.com/) and try it. You'll see what I'm getting at.

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