Speaker Locations, Sizes, Types?

[mongo]

Do you have pinouts of these modules? Any analog signal closer to the rear will save a lot of headache.

For sure
service.tesla.com -> Cybertruck-> Cybertruck Circuit and Connector Reference
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/index.html

Interactive schematic: (there is also pdf version)
https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...0557,160444,220480&expbackground=true&page=22

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[mongo]

And connectors:
X0053: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0053/
X0054: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0054/

 

[CyberTruckAudio]

And connectors:
X0053: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0053/
X0054: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0054/

EXTREMELY HELPFUL! Never thought It'd all be available direct from Tesla.

 

[mongo]

EXTREMELY HELPFUL! Never thought It'd all be available direct from Tesla.

Yeah, it's great they now provide all this (whatever the route it took).
For a fee you can also get access to the Toolbox software.

 

[Jack27]

Your post compels me to stay how fantastic the sound system is in the Cybertruck. I've had about every Mercedes AMG including G-wagons which feature Burmester sound system which can be up to 760 watts and 18 speakers.

The CT sound system is more immersive - perhaps because of the interior larger volume and the flat interior surfaces - don't break up the sound as much. The base is fantastic including the rumble bass for those low notes.

For real , I’ve never had a stock speaker system sound this good. I can’t imagine the reason or need for more! Maybe I’m just finally getting that old now though ?.

 

[CyberTruckAudio]

Yeah, it's great they now provide all this (whatever the route it took).
For a fee you can also get access to the Toolbox software.

Do you have a legend for wire colors/sizes?

 

[mongo]

Do you have a legend for wire colors/sizes?

It's on the first page of the schematic

 

[JayWebbMD]

I want to add a sub in the front of the center console seems like 2-2 1/2 cf available.

My plan is to ignore any CT specifics and throw in a 12v battery or two under the rear seat with all the amps/dsps required to run 10+ speakers/subs.

From there there are plenty of 48v buck converters to be able to keep the 12v battery charged.

I thought the same thing at first, then I measured that space out and to keep it flush with the sides of the console and using 3/4” mdf, you’d have to conform to every angle precisely to even get 1.2 cubic feet, and that’s without leaving space to downfire or figuring out how to get rid of the plastic floor piece there so it wouldn’t rattle like crazy. You could probably get 1.6 or so if you formed fiberglass to every nook and cranny at around 3/8” thick. But I don’t know for sure if the mechanics of getting it in there would work for the way the center console has to go in and out. Also you’ve only got 11 inches of width, so you’re looking at a 10” sub. I mean, it can work and I know someone will do it, but I felt it was too limited.
The 12 volt step down thing also is totally reasonable, that’s what they did in the article about Tint World in Orlando, but I wanted to minimize voltage conversion losses and amount of equipment. Ultimately, mine will be run off of 120VAC, with the option to use 240 to squeeze a little extra power out if I expand in the future. Keep us updated if you do any of it! I don’t post much, but I’m watching for posts about this kind of stuff every day

 

[CyberTruckAudio]

I thought the same thing at first, then I measured that space out and to keep it flush with the sides of the console and using 3/4” mdf, you’d have to conform to every angle precisely to even get 1.2 cubic feet, and that’s without leaving space to downfire or figuring out how to get rid of the plastic floor piece there so it wouldn’t rattle like crazy. You could probably get 1.6 or so if you formed fiberglass to every nook and cranny at around 3/8” thick. But I don’t know for sure if the mechanics of getting it in there would work for the way the center console has to go in and out. Also you’ve only got 11 inches of width, so you’re looking at a 10” sub. I mean, it can work and I know someone will do it, but I felt it was too limited.
The 12 volt step down thing also is totally reasonable, that’s what they did in the article about Tint World in Orlando, but I wanted to minimize voltage conversion losses and amount of equipment. Ultimately, mine will be run off of 120VAC, with the option to use 240 to squeeze a little extra power out if I expand in the future. Keep us updated if you do any of it! I don’t post much, but I’m watching for posts about this kind of stuff every day

I figured it wouldn’t be a big deal to go out an inch or two in both directions of the footwells. I’m going for a 13W7 since we can only fit a single woofer it may as well be a thumper.

 

[HaulingAss]

Your post compels me to stay how fantastic the sound system is in the Cybertruck. I've had about every Mercedes AMG including G-wagons which feature Burmester sound system which can be up to 760 watts and 18 speakers.

The CT sound system is more immersive - perhaps because of the interior larger volume and the flat interior surfaces - don't break up the sound as much. The base is fantastic including the rumble bass for those low notes.

I haven't listened to the Mercedes Burmester sound system, but the Cybertruck has better sound than I've heard from any high-end OEM system I've heard, and better than almost all custom aftermarket installs, although not as powerful/loud, which is fine for me because I value my remaining hearing.

Everyone is saying the Cybertruck uses ported subs. But the enclosures have a very large side port, larger than anything compatible with good bass, except it's not an open port, it's sealed with perimeter foam against a corresponding port in the hollow steel frame member. I suspect this large volume cavity is essentially sealed. In my mind that makes these subs with large open ports, functionally, non-ported subwoofers with a large volume in a very compact package. Simply brilliant!

You can see images here:

 

[JayWebbMD]

It's distributed into the body modules, not the speakers themselves.
Amps are in the left, right, and rear backbone controller nodes with no analog wiring other than the amplified feeds to the speakers.


The crossovers are digital.

Very helpful to know, thanks! I don’t suppose you have any knowledge about how the audio signal is encoded and accessed digitally by the factory amplifier? I believe I’ve seen projects on other cars where the audio signal is accessed via CAN bus with a raspberry pi and a CAN bus interface module. I think Tesla uses some higher bandwidth protocol, but that’s about as far as my knowledge goes on it.

 

[CyberTruckAudio]

Very helpful to know, thanks! I don’t suppose you have any knowledge about how the audio signal is encoded and accessed digitally by the factory amplifier? I believe I’ve seen projects on other cars where the audio signal is accessed via CAN bus with a raspberry pi and a CAN bus interface module. I think Tesla uses some higher bandwidth protocol, but that’s about as far as my knowledge goes on it.

It’s done over a “A2B” bus. Requires a hardware decoder and hardware to split up the channels to RCA outputs.. Not something a pi/arduino can do on its own.

 

[mongo]

It’s done over a “A2B” bus. Requires a hardware decoder and hardware to split up the channels to RCA outputs.. Not something a pi/arduino can do on its own.

And that's after the packets make it through the Etherloop

 

[CyberTruckAudio]

And that's after the packets make it through the Etherloop

Yeah I’ll leave that job for someone else lol.

I’m happy with the speaker level outputs from the factory amps.. Still kinda sad because I will have to run wire to each speaker since the factory wire is too small for some speakers.

 

[XCeilidhX]

Everyone is saying the Cybertruck uses ported subs. But the enclosures have a very large side port, larger than anything compatible with good bass, except it's not an open port, it's sealed with perimeter foam against a corresponding port in the hollow steel frame member. I suspect this large volume cavity is essentially sealed. In my mind that makes these subs with large open ports, functionally, non-ported subwoofers with a large volume in a very compact package. Simply brilliant!

So to clarify, are you saying these are more akin to open baffle subs than ported subs or that the ports are so wide though stuffed and sound is folded around like a transmission line design?

I have yet to hear this system in person, but I almost never like anything other than high powered sealed subs because although they can extend low the sounds just can't remain cohesively tight and speakers end up slow so the sound ends up sloppy or loose. Excellent examples would be trying to listen at any significant volume to the sound of Lars Ulrich's kick bass drums on the Song "One" by Metallica, or low notes on a double bass listening to jazz, a lot of EDM style music low bass percussion notes, or material from The Prodigy or Nine Inch Nails. In any of these cases if I put them on a ported system I can pretty much instantly tell and it's like my ears do an eye-roll that's just like: Thank you... next?

I have yet to hear from a picky audiophile specific comments about the sound of the CT/CB subs vs tight sealed high powered subs in this regard.

For reference, the sub I use for my home theater setup is a 4000w (sustained, not peak) 18" woofer from Deep Sea Sound paired with Martin Logan hybrid electrostatics.

I would love to hear some opinions from those that have a similar strong preference for sealed subs and what their opinion of the CT/CB audio system is like to listen to when really pushing the subs.

Thanks for the info you posted. Quite helpful.

Cheers

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