Boring light vs SW nemesis vs CyberGlow DRL

[That Beast Mode]

No, you go right ahead, whatever floats your boat.

But since you want articulation: grown ass men paying a pretty penny to hack their trucks to have some kiddy light show.

You do realize that every tesla on the planet has a light show - his just does it in full color. Its an accessory just like any other.

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[hemiarch]

You do realize that every tesla on the planet has a light show - his just does it in full color. Its an accessory just like any other.

Agreed. I just think it’s fairly narrow minded to see this as anything different than people spending thousands on steel bumpers that make their car “look” like it could drive over an IED, or a winch they will likely never use or twenty some inch rims with tires that loosen your fillings and cut range by double digits, or bedliners that will never see anything other than the outside of a Costco bag. How about the aero kits that add 200 lbs to the car and worsen the drag coefficient? That sort of thing.
Different strokes for different folks.
Point of fact. My car doesn’t “need” the expensive PPF wrap on it either. The stainless steel is plenty functional. It’s just a personalization enhancement to make it feel more uniquely mine.

 

[bpobob]

You do realize that every tesla on the planet has a light show - his just does it in full color. Its an accessory just like any other.

don't feed the trolls. Making fun of things makes him feel good and makes his pp seem bigger.

 

[mongo]

Better not show them my light show...
Mongo, when the light bars came off

 

[hemiarch]

Better not show them my light show...
Mongo, when the light bars came off

That’s way cool man. Looks like all that switch tinkering paid off.

 

[herncah]

I had the V1 version of the Nemesis. Mine was actually the first one that used the frunk 48v frunk feed and it used the Diode Dynamics led’s which were not addressable. Sean is an awesome guy and great to work with. I can’t speak to V3, but for mine they had to drill a hole through the DRL for the LED cable. This cable ran down to the frunk where they have the buck converter.

From my understanding, The Boring Light has all the hardware placed inside the DRL, so it uses the existing connector.

I’m not 100% certain but believe both Boring and Nemesis use the blue ghostz controlled and software.

I goofed big time because when I went to install my Underglow, I decided to tidy up the extra play in the wire mentioned above that was near the frunk arm. But I didn’t leave enough play in the cable because its opposite of what you think. With the frunk up, the cable doesn’t need any play, but closing the frunk requires a bunch of play. So I ended up breaking the cable and in turn, it fried the LED’s.
All ended well however, because I opened the DRL up and installed my own LED’s and they are working great. Although the process was on the very high end of difficulty.

feel free to DM me if you want to discuss more over the phone.

How did you open up your DRL? I have tried several methods and have been unsuccessful. (Method 1, Heat gun; Method 2, commercial oven)

 

[hemiarch]

How did you open up your DRL? I have tried several methods and have been unsuccessful. (Method 1, Heat gun; Method 2, commercial oven)

Curious about that myself. I got one that already had it done from cyberglow. It is pretty well sealed back together so I can’t tell.
I kept my OEM bar because I was nervous about reliability and part of that was weatherproofing but so far I haven’t had any concerns. If anyone wants to tinker with one, feel free to DM. I still have my almost new OEM DRL packaged nicely in the box cyberglow sent me. It’s just taking up garage space and annoying my wife.

 

[Rook-E]

How did you open up your DRL? I have tried several methods and have been unsuccessful. (Method 1, Heat gun; Method 2, commercial oven)

The V1 Nemsis was re-sealed with Butyl. I used a heat gun on one of the corners. From what I remember, I had to heat about a 1-2 foot section beyond the corner until I could get a small wedge in. Once you have a good section slightly cracked open, maybe half the DRL length, I started at the original wedge spot applied more heat until I could get a small piece of 2x4 to hold it open. Then just continue to heat and work your way around the DRL. It probably would have been allot easier with two people. And I remember that butyl tape being a pain and always sticking back together.

also FYI, I didn’t like the hole drilled into the back cover to run wires so instead ordered the original OEM connector and wired that up. Less risk of condensation intrusion doing it that way in my opinion. For re-seal I didn’t have access to a commercial oven so just made one from cardboard with a heat gun and baffle.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

No, you go right ahead, whatever floats your boat.

But since you want articulation: grown ass men paying a pretty penny to hack their trucks to have some kiddy light show.

Why be trolling on here my brother in Christ? I know OP and his 3 kids and that truck is all kinds of modded out with a Bluey theme and those little kids love it.

Why would a grown-ass man want to take away love and joy from little kids?

Short of some kind of understanding, this sounds like some deeply rooted personal issues.

In much of the Mountain Weet there is a belief in the motif of ‘Live and Let Live.’

I’ll guess you’re not from the West. But then again I don’t know of any real man that thinks it’s cool to steal little kids’ joy.

 

[freyguy]

Does anyone know if any of the companies have made it to where this bar can do an animated sequential type turn signal coming from the drl. That I think would be a nice touch to have it flow in one direction from the middle outward indicating a turn signal.

not sure if it is possible or if anyone have tried.

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