First Cybertruck Swing Arm Spare Tire Carrier (by Wilco Offroad)!!

[Cybertruck 1974]

Have you ever even used tire plugs? It doesn't sound like it.

absolutely. you Ass sume quickly. A sidewall puncture, blow out is the norm for me. A plug won't do the trick.

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[Cybertruck 1974]

Blocks view of rear license plate so probably not legal?

I hope this goes around quickly so there's not too many that are quick to judge.....the plate has a new location on swing arm and has a light. Also the rear camera is mounted on the swingarm in middle with a cable extension. 100% legal.

 

[Cybertruck 1974]

Does it come with an idiot proof tailgate disabler? It's gonna happen. Nice idea but too many downsides. Wind drag, cost, inconvenience, camera blocked, shimmy, increased length and it doesn't seem like a tight fit. Hope to see more of your thoughts after practical experience.

wow you are so wrong. Not a difference in mileage, very convenient, camera is located on swing arm in middle of tire with extension comms cable, no shimmy, tight fit....did you look at side profile? nope. Very practical experience with off road testing and on highway. Now ESAD buddy.

 

[Cybertruck 1974]

I think it might just clear both, some of the rear view would be showing tire though because it's wide angle.

I relocated the camera to swing arm middle of tire area with extension cable. You can pick up on line, Amazon.

 

[Cybertruck 1974]

On a 35” tire I think even offset it will cross the midline of the truck and block the camera.

as for the license plate, I’m pretty sure in PA it’s legal to block the plate with a rear cargo carrier that’s in use but not when not in use. So a bike rack with bikes in it is ok but an empty rack folded up and blocking the plates they could technically pull you over. I’m sure other states have different rules about it.

again......camera is blocked anywhere you put a 35....I moved the camera with extension cable provided on Amazon to center of swing arm at tire area.....License plate moved to swing arm on right side with a light tapped into OEM plate lights....done. Legal, done.

 

[Cybertruck 1974]

That's legit badass! But if they're calling this a true Cybertruck integrated solution it should have a way to relocate the camera.

already did and license plate with lights. Amazon has the cable extension for camera. No adjusting or anything. I'ts located in middle of tire on swing arm mount. Perfect spot and wide angle is 100% again. Tesla rim is 0 offset/flat so camera is only 1 inch countersunk to outside edge of rim.

 

[HaulingAss]

absolutely. you Ass sume quickly. A sidewall puncture, blow out is the norm for me. A plug won't do the trick.

That's a sign you are running inadequate tires and/or pressures not suitable for the application. Blowouts shouldn't happen unless the tire has a very serious manufacturing defect, and thousands of sidewall punctures have been repaired with tire plugs well enough to get back to civilization.

When I was young and had limited funds, I ran off-road tires that were bias ply and could be easily punctured by thin cactus thorns right through the tread area. That was my first 4x4 trip to Mexico, before I knew any better. I came prepared the next time and went from 3 flats to zero flats. And I've always kept a keen eye for situations that could cause sidewall damage. Tires are pretty tough if you know what you're doing. I don't know why you just accept so many flat tires, especially ones you think can't be fixed with an emergency repair.

 

[cyberstank]

tire debate aside, its nice not having a giant tire in your bed, plus you can put a camp table, carry water/etc on the swing arm, having a table on it is nice because when gate is down you have cook surface on tailgate and cutting surface to the right of you or vice versa. trasharoo is also great for the rear tire. I think it's cool to see these traditional accessories working with the CT. Personally plugging a tire in the middle of nowhere when it's hot as hell out kind of sucks, but all depends on what you prefer. The rear spare kinda looks cool too

https://www.rigdsupply.com/collections/ultraswing-accessories

also nice is the removability, you can take it off when not camping/going on a trip, throw it on when you need to have a spare

 

[countryboy]

That's a sign you are running inadequate tires and/or pressures not suitable for the application. Blowouts shouldn't happen unless the tire has a very serious manufacturing defect, and thousands of sidewall punctures have been repaired with tire plugs well enough to get back to civilization.

No, not necessarily! Some conditions may require pressure so low a sidewall puncture (or unseating bead) is more likely. When the trail is so rough it takes all day to go 5 miles, best to have a spare. I also carry one of these in all my vehicles just in case, ever since a trip being stranded with these, and driving back to the road on the bare wheel because those only work in the tread area. Sidewall Slug is faster than changing tires on the trail as long as you have a good air source.

 

[HaulingAss]

No, not necessarily! Some conditions may require pressure so low a sidewall puncture (or unseating bead) is more likely. When the trail is so rough it takes all day to go 5 miles, best to have a spare. I also carry one of these in all my vehicles just in case, ever since a trip being stranded with these, and driving back to the road on the bare wheel because those only work in the tread area. Sidewall Slug is faster than changing tires on the trail as long as you have a good air source.

Don't ever use Slime brand plugs! They will probably work for a simple tread puncture but I don't use Slime brand anything, complete garbage (and the included tool looks worthless as well). Thousands of sidewall punctures have been repaired on the trail with plugs by people using quality plugs (Safety Seal are good, carry a variety of sizes), just don't buy garbage marketed by Slime and learn how to use your tools.

I don't know about taking all day to drive five miles, I could walk that far in 2 hours vs. all day. I call it hiking. Seems pretty silly to me to do something like that in a Cybertruck, it's not designed as a rock-crawler. The Cybertruck All-Terrain tires (and many others) are not designed to be aired down to very low pressures. Tires are not an art, they are a science. It sounds like you are airing your tires down below their design limits if you are getting that much unrepairable tire damage. Remember, a tire is not a rubber bladder, it is a high-strength fabric bladder that is encased in rubber so it holds air. When you air a tire down below what it's designed to be driven at, it literally ruins the tire due to repeated over-flexing of the sidewall reinforcement. The reinforcement has fatigue limits and will turn to mush. That makes them even more susceptible to punctures/cuts over time. Always use the right tires for the job and aired to appropriate pressures. And air them back up ASAP if you don't want them to become so fatigued over time that a sharp rock will cut right through them like butter.

I know you think you need ultra-low pressures for the super-gnar trails you conquer ? but driver skill can go a long ways towards not needing excessively low pressures and preserving the cut resistance of your tires. I see people on the trail all the time aired far below what is required for the trail, and far below the design limits of the tires they are running. All-Terrain tires are not Rugged Terrain tires, they are like the All-Season tires of the off-pavement world. Know the difference and stop getting so many flats. Respect your equipment, don't just accept that it will be unreliable.

BTW, with the number of flats you get on a regular basis that are "unrepairable", how many spare tires do you bring with you? Is two enough?

 

[HaulingAss]

Yup, I did it. First in the world. This company Wilco Offroad makes the only one that actually works and fits with no modification.

It looks like that puts your tow ball about one foot aftward. Just be aware that this will lower the allowable tongue weight and the maximum tow capacity. It also reduces responsiveness when backing the trailer and makes it incrementally less stable at higher speeds.

 

[Cybertruck 1974]

It looks like that puts your tow ball about one foot aftward. Just be aware that this will lower the allowable tongue weight and the maximum tow capacity. It also reduces responsiveness when backing the trailer and makes it incrementally less stable at higher speeds.

right. Im a truck driver and very aware but it's so minimal. All the equipment is rated at 10k lbs and 500lb tongue weight. Stabilizer bars are the best for any towing, just so you know.

 

[HaulingAss]

right. Im a truck driver and very aware but it's so minimal. All the equipment is rated at 10k lbs and 500lb tongue weight. Stabilizer bars are the best for any towing, just so you know.

It's not minimal. The are two relevant metrics when moving the tow ball aft:

A) Distance from the tow ball to the rear axle.
B) Ratio of wheelbase/A (above)

In this case, moving the tow ball aft by a foot increases distance A by about 25-30%, a very significant change that impacts both important metrics, substantially impacting tow dynamics for the worse. This gives the tongue of the trailer a lot more leverage on the tow ball, and on the steering wheels. On slippery surfaces it's the same thing as telling your trailer you are going to hand off 25% more control to the trailer.

Of course, if you only tow small utility trailers, with nothing heavy on them, the only time that's going to matter is if you find yourself on snow or ice. Towing a heavy trailer, the degraded tow dynamics could be a factor on the highway, in the rain, or during emergency avoidance maneuvers. There is no benefit to this change at all. That's why Tesla puts the reciever as far forward as physically possible.

Stabilizer bars are a good thing, they help improve tow dynamics by transferring a bit more weight to the front wheels. But the 25% effect is still going to be there, stabilizer bars or not.

 

[Cybertruck 1974]

It's not minimal. The are two relevant metrics when moving the tow ball aft:

A) Distance from the tow ball to the rear axle.
B) Ratio of wheelbase/A (above)

In this case, moving the tow ball aft by a foot increases distance A by about 25-30%, a very significant change that impacts both important metrics, substantially impacting tow dynamics for the worse. This gives the tongue of the trailer a lot more leverage on the tow ball, and on the steering wheels. On slippery surfaces it's the same thing as telling your trailer you are going to hand off 25% more control to the trailer.

Of course, if you only tow small utility trailers, with nothing heavy on them, the only time that's going to matter is if you find yourself on snow or ice. Towing a heavy trailer, the degraded tow dynamics could be a factor on the highway, in the rain, or during emergency avoidance maneuvers. There is no benefit to this change at all. That's why Tesla puts the reciever as far forward as physically possible.

Stabilizer bars are a good thing, they help improve tow dynamics by transferring a bit more weight to the front wheels. But the 25% effect is still going to be there, stabilizer bars or not.

well, ive driven so many trucks and suvs with so many different types of receivers, hitches, trailers, loads from 500lbs to 5 tons to 80klb trailers on King Pin. They are all different and what I've seen with the cyber truck with my 5k trailer and 9k trailer in snow, mud, pavement, 55mph and at 90mph it's stable, very, very stable. The difference of a few inches which is not dangerous nor non compliant and engineered is so minimal. As a very experienced driver in every possible driving terrain this truck kicks ass with my set up and don't feel a difference. Let me tell you.

 

[HaulingAss]

well, ive driven so many trucks and suvs with so many different types of receivers, hitches, trailers, loads from 500lbs to 5 tons to 80klb trailers on King Pin. They are all different and what I've seen with the cyber truck with my 5k trailer and 9k trailer in snow, mud, pavement, 55mph and at 90mph it's stable, very, very stable. The difference of a few inches which is not dangerous nor non compliant and engineered is so minimal. As a very experienced driver in every possible driving terrain this truck kicks ass with my set up and don't feel a difference. Let me tell you.

Yeah, I said right here back in 2020 that the Cybertruck's frame would be ultra stiff and rigid and this would translate to tow dynamics far superior to any legacy truck with a ladder frame, because ladder frames turn into giant steel springs with heavy loads. Cybertruck naysayers told me I dodn't know what I was talking about, that body-on-frame trucks were better for towing, everyone knows that, yadda, yadda, yadda.

So here we are, the Cybertruck has superior tow dynamics. Yes, it can handle having the tow ball extended to the rear without becoming dangerous, but only because it's tow dynamics are so much better to begin with. I still wouldn't do it, especially if towing near the limit, due to the reduction in emergency avoidance capabilities.

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