My Cybertruck will not start / power on

[CyberGus]

While the various SbW failure modes are unclear and worth discussion, I refuse to believe that something like a blown pyro fuse could result in the truck fatally plunging off a cliff. I would consider that to be engineering malfeasance of the highest order, completely unexpected from the Tesla team.

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[JBee]

I thought it was 4ah?

Ah even worse then. 192Wh.

 

[Stuck4ger]

NW. Let me know what you find.

https://www.cybertruckownersclub.com/forum/threads/cybertruck-owners-service-repair-manuals-accessible-online-links-?.12905/

Awesome stuff, thanks!

 

[BannedByTMC]

From the service manual, 13S1P, 41.6V Nominal, 4Ah. 3.2V nominal per cell means it's LFP which makes sense for longevity and durability.

 

[JBee]

While the various SbW failure modes are unclear and worth discussion, I refuse to believe that something like a blown pyro fuse could result in the truck fatally plunging off a cliff. I would consider that to be engineering malfeasance of the highest order, completely unexpected from the Tesla team.

The pyro fuse is on the main pack to disable the drivetrain and to reduce the risk of a runaway pack. I doubt the 48V has one. (Pyro being explosive)

If anything they will either have reclosing isolator switches or solid state versions like polyfuses, depending on the current rating of the circuit and how fast it needs to recover.

As for the reason behind the failures this is not immediately clear from here, but the resulting failures are.

I can imagine the following potential causes on the power side:
1) wrong circuit and component specification on the power modules
2) 48V ring bus controller network issues (voltage spikes, ESD, wrong settings, code)
3) delayed or faulty isolation switching
4) insufficient redundancy/isolation in the design

Don't get me wrong, I also can't believe this could slip through their testing, but I am also under no illusion that something is going on that needs to be resolved ASAP.

 

[JBee]

From the service manual, 13S1P, 41.6V Nominal, 4Ah. 3.2V nominal per cell means it's LFP which makes sense for longevity and durability.

Made in China. Theres your problem! Lol.

I went into a tool shop the other day, and I couldn't believe how the sales guy was going on about how rubbish China made tools were. I asked him why he worked in a shop where 90% of the gear was made in China. He didn’t say another word about China and stopped trying to upsell me to a more expensive Japanese brand. I got something made in Germany instead...lol.

But back to the battery, 41V nominal sounds low for a 48V system? Traditional 48V lifepo4 setups are higher around 51.8V? I wonder what the operating range is. Will have to chk tomorrow. Sleepy time for now.

 

[ornitorrinco]

My apologies in advance if reviving old threads is frowned upon but the same thing happened to me, although I am not sure it is for the same reason so I figured it belongs together with this.

Picked up with 18 miles, drove for a day, it is now at 63 miles and completely dead in the garage. I managed to pop the frunk and connect a 12V so it starts but it is not charging. I entered Service Mode and I got a "Left Domain: POWER_SUPPLY_COMPROMISED". MOSFET is open for the MV Battery, SOC (State of Charge) is 9% no matter what, voltage shows as 41.75 V and current at -0.02 A. ECPA is closed. AC does not run, glovebox does not open, and I get 11 service alerts, mostly about LV health.

I left the tonneau open so I think that has something to do with it as now when I power it on the thing starting going bonkers apparently trying to close or open, although I did not command it via switch or app. The bed switch for the tonneau does not work but the back door switch does.

Here are some screenshots for anyone interested in doing some investigative work

 

[CyberGus]

Picked up with 18 miles, drove for a day, it is now at 63 miles and completely dead in the garage. I managed to pop the frunk and connect a 12V so it starts but it is not charging.

I’d suggest a hard reset:

https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...UID-A399E8AE-5DCF-4095-91FA-AF0148503F3B.html

If that fails to yield improvements, time to schedule service.

 

[ornitorrinco]

Tried that but the vehicle still refuses to even power on (as in, as soon as I remove the jumper battery, everything goes dark and door only opens using the emergency switch.

I gave up yesterday and had it towed it to the SC but it was a 10-hour ordeal. Then today they told me they had to forklift it into the shop because they could not get it to go into Neutral / Towing mode, which I managed to do multiple times (and my first time troubleshooting a Cybertruck, mind you) ?‍

I am keeping my fingers crossed that they can figure it out but tbh, I am not very confident they will fix it any time soon and return it to me without some new damage. And probably still dirty and missing the mobile charger.

 

[tapn2me]

I've had my truck for two days, got in this morning, everything was on. Went to press the brake to put it in reverse and everything went black. Power door button wouldn't even let me out, had to use manual release to get out. I can not get back in either. My battery is at 40%, so no it's not dead. Has anyone had this problem?

It happened to me two days ago. Zero power available even though had about 40% charge. Jumper wires did nothing. Tesla had to rip off a piece of the fender to get the frunk to open, then they were able to get it to power up but still no resolution for why and how to prevent it in the future. Very concerning!!!

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