NEW Bumper Insert LED Lightbar - 40" Curved Light Bar / 48v (no converter!) / Retain Tow Hook Functionality - T Sportline

[edsonbarron]

I dont need this at all but my intrusive thoughts caved and i ordered

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[T Sportline]

I dont need this at all but my intrusive thoughts caved and i ordered

 

[hemiarch]

Question about this bar. Since it’s 48v, if you have the oem bar installed and wire it parallel with the oem bar on the roof feed, it should turn on at the same time as that bar. I’m assuming the sum of the two is less than 400w?

 

[mongo]

Question about this bar. Since it’s 48v, if you have the oem bar installed and wire it parallel with the oem bar on the roof feed, it should turn on at the same time as that bar. I’m assuming the sum of the two is less than 400w?

It actually connects to the frunk power feed which is a separate 400W source from the roof. So it's independent. (Together, they would be less than 400W though).

 

[hemiarch]

It actually connects to the frunk power feed which is a separate 400W source from the roof. So it's independent. (Together, they would be less than 400W though).

Yes. I understand that’s how t-sportline intends for
It to be used, but supposing one wanted to use the frunk power feed for something else like keeping a power station charged, one could basically y off the red and black wires above the passenger door and run that wire back down to the frunk/front bumper.
Assuming they are under 400w together and don’t trip the roof “fuse” they should both come on when you switch the light on from the screen no?

 

[mongo]

Yes. I understand that’s how t-sportline intends for
It to be used, but supposing one wanted to use the frunk power feed for something else like keeping a power station charged, one could basically y off the red and black wires above the passenger door and run that wire back down to the frunk/front bumper.
Assuming they are under 400w together and don’t trip the roof “fuse” they should both come on when you switch the light on from the screen no?

Yep, the Tesla bar is under 200W as is this one so should work on the same feed.
(Inital post of this thread incorrectly says it runs off the roof, I thought that was what you were referencing)

 

[TexasRaider]

I have your ditch lights powered from the frunk feed. Does this plug into the frunk power feed also?

 

[hemiarch]

Yep, the Tesla bar is under 200W as is this one so should work on the same feed.
(Inital post of this thread incorrectly says it runs off the roof, I thought that was what you were referencing)

I wonder if that would mean “on” when you press ditch or flood or both.
I’m guessing both because it’s likely the green wire that “tells” the bar what to do with the “on” state of the wires.

 

[T Sportline]

Yes. I understand that’s how t-sportline intends for
It to be used, but supposing one wanted to use the frunk power feed for something else like keeping a power station charged, one could basically y off the red and black wires above the passenger door and run that wire back down to the frunk/front bumper.
Assuming they are under 400w together and don’t trip the roof “fuse” they should both come on when you switch the light on from the screen no?

You need to keep the total load on these feeds under 380w, most safe around 350w or less. The 400w rating is a rating but in reality they trip at lower wattage and you need a little buffer for spikes.

Better plan would be to get our Auxiliary Power System (APS), you can run much more load with zero issue. https://tsportline.com/collections/...tegrated-power-systems?variant=50374174507297

 

[hemiarch]

You need to keep the total load on these feeds under 380w, most safe around 350w or less. The 400w rating is a rating but in reality they trip at lower wattage and you need a little buffer for spikes.

Better plan would be to get our Auxiliary Power System (APS), you can run much more load with zero issue. https://tsportline.com/collections/...tegrated-power-systems?variant=50374174507297

Thanks for the reply. Was just thinking it would be nice to control your bumper bar simultaneously with the oem bar. Single screen button press. Any situation where I’m turning on the roof lightbar, I’d want your bumper bar on too. This would also allow me to keep the frunk feed for my power station needs as I have it set up now.
Where would the battery (APS) go in this scenario?Not sure I follow what you’re proposing.
Fair point about accounting for spikes by undershooting the 400w.
What’s the max draw on this bar?

 

[T Sportline]

Thanks for the reply. Was just thinking it would be nice to control your bumper bar simultaneously with the oem bar. Single screen button press. Any situation where I’m turning on the roof lightbar, I’d want your bumper bar on too. This would also allow me to keep the frunk feed for my power station needs as I have it set up now.
Where would the battery (APS) go in this scenario?Not sure I follow what you’re proposing.
Fair point about accounting for spikes by undershooting the 400w.
What’s the max draw on this bar?

The APS goes in the frunk. You can run all the lights (rooftop, ditch, bumper) off the APS and have a single control / switch for them.

 

[hemiarch]

The APS goes in the frunk. You can run all the lights (rooftop, ditch, bumper) off the APS and have a single control / switch for them.

I see. Makes sense. Especially if all my lights came from you, because they are on/off lightbulbs basically. The problem is that I have an oem beast bar and so it needs the green information cable up there on the roof feed to work. Native control from the Tesla screen without a controller is also nice.
Was just wondering if it would be possible to group it with that oem bar. Thats why I was asking about max draw.

 

[T Sportline]

I see. Makes sense. Especially if all my lights came from you, because they are on/off lightbulbs basically. The problem is that I have an oem beast bar and so it needs the green information cable up there on the roof feed to work. Native control from the Tesla screen without a controller is also nice.
Was just wondering if it would be possible to group it with that oem bar. Thats why I was asking about max draw.

if you really wanted to do this, I’d try powering a relay thru a parallel tap on oem power feed and use that relay to feed secondary lights - power those secondary lights off frunk or aps.

the Tesla is going to look for excessive wattage on the roof feed - you won’t be able to sneak more lights off that. But maybe a relay will sneak by.

 

[hemiarch]

if you really wanted to do this, I’d try powering a relay thru a parallel tap on oem power feed and use that relay to feed secondary lights - power those secondary lights off frunk or aps.

the Tesla is going to look for excessive wattage on the roof feed - you won’t be able to sneak more lights off that. But maybe a relay will sneak by.

Good idea.

 

[hemiarch]

if you really wanted to do this, I’d try powering a relay thru a parallel tap on oem power feed and use that relay to feed secondary lights - power those secondary lights off frunk or aps.

the Tesla is going to look for excessive wattage on the roof feed - you won’t be able to sneak more lights off that. But maybe a relay will sneak by.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.
Is this a good place to ask about another product you sell? The 21L subtrunk fridge or better offline/another thread?
I’m very curious about how closed the subtrunk lid can be. I see there are spacers for ventilation but none of anyone’s marketing material shows the lid closed.
Happy to ask elsewhere so as not to derail this thread.

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