ProTectaClear by EverBright Project! (Whipping that Ole'OCD!!)

[joeliroquai]

I've had a few passes at putting this stuff on over the weekend. Here's my observations on it, and I'll likely just be removing it since it's very difficult to get a perfect coat of this stuff on.

• Make sure you're in a controlled environment and have your applicators clean from any lint or other contaminants.
• Humidity is also a factor as well. Ideally the environment is very dry.
• Try and avoid bubbles when pouring the solution into a tray. They can and will dry into the final coating.
• The sponges they come with have folds in the corner, so any pressure can cause a streak. I had better luck with wide foam applicators and I think a good brush would help here as well.
• Make sure the steel is dry as possible as any leftover cleaners/windex on the steel will cause streaking when the coating starts to dry. Streaks are very hard to deal with once set.
• Once it drys to a tackier state don't touch it. Any re-brushing will causes streaks or lumps.
• ANY lint, hair or bugs that get into the coating will require you to remove it and retry. To do so you'll need:
• Xylene to remove it, and good amount of it. Xylene is particularly nasty, has a lot of fumes, is incredibly flammable and illegal (I've seen) in certain states. If you're going to go through with this process I'd recommend just getting a jug of it as there's 0% chance you nail this the first time.
• A little bit of protectaclear goes a long ways. Better to do a second coat then to do too heavy of a first and have runs or streaks.

I've done some difficult painting in the past, but this is a whole other level of non-forgiving. Any imperfections or impurities will show up since it's effectively a clear coating, and so you'll likely have to redo certain sections several times before you get the desired results.

DON'T WET SAND ANYTHING, it's entirely too easy to go too far with a wet sanding and you'll effect the stainless steel.

Unless you have an abundance of time, a good working area that's controlled, and can handle working with hazardous chemicals then this is probably best left to the professionals. Even my best results still have imperfections which are easily seen given the lack of body curves or lines to "hide behind." I, personally, wish I wouldn't have tried with this stuff and just dealt with the fingerprints as now I'll be stripping all of it which isn't going to be fun.

YMMV, tread cautiously, and good luck.

EDIT: Few more things I thought of:

• Tape off the black plastics with painters tape. Easier than trying to deal with drips immediately during the painting process.
• Most of the plastics on the truck don't seem to be effected by Xylene, but not sure that's the case with all of them since I couldn't find what types of plastics are used on the truck.
• Don't drive it between coatings or expose it as cleaning it can be a chore for the second coating.

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[Cyber_95]

@ProtectaClear Care to comment on the review and other comments in this thread? The things mentioned in here are giving me second thoughts on purchasing the kit.

 

[BengalBoy]

That rainbowing indicates an area without enough product on it. Just hit that panel with a second coat to take care of it.

Thanks for the explanation!! I wasn't sure if it was too little or too much?

 

[BengalBoy]

I've had a few passes at putting this stuff on over the weekend. Here's my observations on it, and I'll likely just be removing it since it's very difficult to get a perfect coat of this stuff on.

• Make sure you're in a controlled environment and have your applicators clean from any lint or other contaminants.
• Humidity is also a factor as well. Ideally the environment is very dry.
• Try and avoid bubbles when pouring the solution into a tray. They can and will dry into the final coating.
• The sponges they come with have folds in the corner, so any pressure can cause a streak. I had better luck with wide foam applicators and I think a good brush would help here as well.
• Make sure the steel is dry as possible as any leftover cleaners/windex on the steel will cause streaking when the coating starts to dry. Streaks are very hard to deal with once set.
• Once it drys to a tackier state don't touch it. Any re-brushing will causes streaks or lumps.
• ANY lint, hair or bugs that get into the coating will require you to remove it and retry. To do so you'll need:
• Xylene to remove it, and good amount of it. Xylene is particularly nasty, has a lot of fumes, is incredibly flammable and illegal (I've seen) in certain states. If you're going to go through with this process I'd recommend just getting a jug of it as there's 0% chance you nail this the first time.
• A little bit of protectaclear goes a long ways. Better to do a second coat then to do too heavy of a first and have runs or streaks.

I've done some difficult painting in the past, but this is a whole other level of non-forgiving. Any imperfections or impurities will show up since it's effectively a clear coating, and so you'll likely have to redo certain sections several times before you get the desired results.

DON'T WET SAND ANYTHING, it's entirely too easy to go too far with a wet sanding and you'll effect the stainless steel.

Unless you have an abundance of time, a good working area that's controlled, and can handle working with hazardous chemicals then this is probably best left to the professionals. Even my best results still have imperfections which are easily seen given the lack of body curves or lines to "hide behind." I, personally, wish I wouldn't have tried with this stuff and just dealt with the fingerprints as now I'll be stripping all of it which isn't going to be fun.

YMMV, tread cautiously, and good luck.

EDIT: Few more things I thought of:

• Tape off the black plastics with painters tape. Easier than trying to deal with drips immediately during the painting process.
• Most of the plastics on the truck don't seem to be effected by Xylene, but not sure that's the case with all of them since I couldn't find what types of plastics are used on the truck.
• Don't drive it between coatings or expose it as cleaning it can be a chore for the second coating.

Excellent points and my experience as well. It is unforgiving and requires discipline to apply. Short, 3-4 inch strokes with very little protectaclear. A little goes a long way. I'm confident that a "brush application" will be easier with a far better result than the sponge applicators included.

 

[tbuck]

Thanks for the explanation!! I wasn't sure if it was too little or too much?

Bearded Tesla Guy did a video a while back on his coating of a customer Cybertruck - it was pretty good.

(79) Tesla Cybertruck - You Wont Believe How This Coating Performs! - YouTube

He also has another video from a short time ago where he towed his brand new CT from Salt Lake City to Orlando (2400 miles) with a customer's CT he was moving.

 

[ProtectaClear]

@ProtectaClear Care to comment on the review and other comments in this thread? The things mentioned in here are giving me second thoughts on purchasing the kit.

Hey Everyone, sorry I guess my keyword alerts have not been working. Just seeing this thread.

We've experienced a mix of success stories along with some owners and detailers facing challenges with the application process. We have been helping individuals on a case-by-case basis as they contact us. We understand that success with the application requires time and patience, and we are committed to assisting everyone in achieving a successful outcome.

We are putting together a full online application training video to outline everything you need to know for a successful application. It is about 80% ready but we will be sure to finish it by next week and get it out to you all. It will cover ideal environment, preparation, application, troubleshooting, repairs, and removal.

There is a specific technique that needs to be learned for the application, much like with any finishing product. That's why we advise starting with the front panel to develop your technique before proceeding to coat the entire truck. While ProtectaClear has been used for decades on various metals including stainless steel, the Cybertruck is new to all of us, our team has been learning what works and what doesn’t by applying and removing it as well. We have a saintly owner locally who has been letting us practice and try various methods on his truck.

The good news is that if you don’t like the finished product (hopefully on your test area) you can remove it and try again. You have plenty of product to try several times if needed. If you decide this finish is not for you, there is no change to the stainless steel on your truck if you remove the coating.

We want to thank all of you Cybertruck early adopters for your patience and flexibility as we work through the initial rollout of this process. Your feedback and support have been crucial in helping us improve our process and instruction. More to come next week!

 

[ProtectaClear]

I made a total mess with my protectaclear. Tons of bugs flew into mine. I think they are attracted to the smell. Also, thanks for the tip on denatured alcohol. I tried isopropyl alcohol and acetone which just smears everywhere. My truck is worst off then before. I don't know what to do at this point. It has streaks, rainbows, blotches, textures from the applicator, dead bugs, and missed spots. I was so disappointed with the bugs that I just quickly finished the rest of the truck poorly and as quickly as I could. I think I have the worst looking Cybertruck in California.

Please call me directly and I will help you fix these issues. I will DM you the phone number.

 

[loki]

Please call me directly and I will help you fix these issues. I will DM you the phone number.

Any general recommendations? I feel like I’m in the same boat.

 

[BengalBoy]

Hey Everyone, sorry I guess my keyword alerts have not been working. Just seeing this thread.

We've experienced a mix of success stories along with some owners and detailers facing challenges with the application process. We have been helping individuals on a case-by-case basis as they contact us. We understand that success with the application requires time and patience, and we are committed to assisting everyone in achieving a successful outcome.

We are putting together a full online application training video to outline everything you need to know for a successful application. It is about 80% ready but we will be sure to finish it by next week and get it out to you all. It will cover ideal environment, preparation, application, troubleshooting, repairs, and removal.

There is a specific technique that needs to be learned for the application, much like with any finishing product. That's why we advise starting with the front panel to develop your technique before proceeding to coat the entire truck. While ProtectaClear has been used for decades on various metals including stainless steel, the Cybertruck is new to all of us, our team has been learning what works and what doesn’t by applying and removing it as well. We have a saintly owner locally who has been letting us practice and try various methods on his truck.

The good news is that if you don’t like the finished product (hopefully on your test area) you can remove it and try again. You have plenty of product to try several times if needed. If you decide this finish is not for you, there is no change to the stainless steel on your truck if you remove the coating.

We want to thank all of you Cybertruck early adopters for your patience and flexibility as we work through the initial rollout of this process. Your feedback and support have been crucial in helping us improve our process and instruction. More to come next week!

Thank you for reaching out to me personally regarding my issues and your solutions, suggestions and ideas. As I told you by phone, I have purchased my Xylene and brush. I'll take your advice and just cut down the places I applied too much or messed the finish and reapply. Thank you for your time and help.

 

[ProtectaClear]

Any general recommendations? I feel like I’m in the same boat.

General Troubleshooting Tips: More in full training (available next week)

1. Most Common- Rainbowing- This means the coating is too thin, just apply another coat and it will go away.

2. Runs/drips- Use a bit of solvent (xylene) on the drips with a paper towel. Let it soften the coating, then wipe out the drip/run. Reapply coating where removed/thinned. If you can have someone help look for drips/runs while you are applying, you can fix right then, before they set.

3. When you are removing coating it WILL rainbow/streak, that is OK. Simply reapply when trouble spots are gone.

4. If a bug or lint lands in the coating: a. while it is still really wet, you can dig it out and wipe over that spot. b. while it is tacky, leave the item and let it dry. After dry to the touch try to wipe out with microfiber. If still stuck, use solvent to remove and recoat in that area.

5. VERY IMPORTANT: Once you apply the coating and it starts to tack, WALK AWAY! It is hard, trust me I know. But the coating will self level as it dries and needs time to do that. You will mar the coating if you keep messing with it while it is trying to dry. Walk away, then come back 30-45 minutes later and see what needs to be touched up. See steps above.

6. Please call our office if you are having trouble, we are happy to help you in the process and want you to have a successful outcome! 916-852-0200

 

[joeliroquai]

Thanks for the tips! Two questions:

- What's the best way of cleaning the first coat and applying the second if it's been rained a bit on?
- When using Xylene I've noticed that it's easy to get fabric from the towels or paper towels stuck into the ProtectaClear. Any advise on avoiding that?

 

[loki]

I also was having more trouble during the day when it was warmer. It would get tacky much quicker.

 

[ProtectaClear]

Thanks for the tips! Two questions:

- What's the best way of cleaning the first coat and applying the second if it's been rained a bit on?
- When using Xylene I've noticed that it's easy to get fabric from the towels or paper towels stuck into the ProtectaClear. Any advise on avoiding that?

1. To clean if the coating is not yet cured but needs another coat, wipe down with barely damp microfiber. Wet with water and fully wring out. The purpose is not to wet the truck but to wipe off any settled dirt, pollen, etc. Ensure the surface is completely dry before coating.

2. Before starting, wipe a generous amount of solvent on the place where you want to remove the coating. You can hold the soaked paper towel on that area. Keep the rag wet with solvent, but at the edges where there is still coating it will catch a bit. That way you know there is still coating still there. Wipe the coating up and away rather than rubbing it into the surface. Ensure a clean rag surface after a few passes. Best to fold the microfiber in half then in half again, this gives you 8 clean surfaces to wipe with. Expect streaks until the coating is fully removed. If reapplying, no need to take it all the way down.

 

[EMoeller]

Very much appreciate ProtectaClear responding with tips. I will pick up my CyberBeast tomorrow and plan on following the OP's plan (his original photos looked great on that door panel). But I won't have any time until late May at the earliest....

I had asked earlier about using a sprayer - ProtectaClear do you have any thoughts about that?

 

[ProtectaClear]

Very much appreciate ProtectaClear responding with tips. I will pick up my CyberBeast tomorrow and plan on following the OP's plan (his original photos looked great on that door panel). But I won't have any time until late May at the earliest....

I had asked earlier about using a sprayer - ProtectaClear do you have any thoughts about that?

We are going to be testing this method in the next few weeks! Will update you once we have tested.

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