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hemiarch

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So far so good! Just wish the power feed would always stay on. Sometimes I would get back in the truck and it would be off.
Have you tried the leave aux power on checkbox? Not sure it affects the frunk feed at all. I have been able to keep my frunk feed on but my auxbeam switch occasionally turns off the Starlink and fridge. Jay thinks it’s because of how it’s grounded and we’re going to try fix that when he gets back from his elk hunt.
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TwiztOG43

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Have you tried the leave aux power on checkbox? Not sure it affects the frunk feed at all. I have been able to keep my frunk feed on but my auxbeam switch occasionally turns off the Starlink and fridge. Jay thinks it’s because of how it’s grounded and we’re going to try fix that when he gets back from his elk hunt.
I was just shimming through the other thread with the DC fridge install, looks to be the same issue. I have tried with the auxiliary power on, same issue. There would be days with the power feed on, then next drive it would be off.

not sure if it is the truck going into deep sleep due to sentry mode being off? I noticed with the model y, there was an update that would only keep the accessory power on if sentry mode was on. I have a fridge install that vehicle as well.
 

hemiarch

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I finished my recent project: split the frunk 48v power line into 2 12V lines:

- Installed a 12V outlet in the frunk
- Made a custom housing for it to ensure it’s super robust and looks OEM
- Ran it through an electrical 48V-to-12V splitter
- Made 2 parallel lines
- The second line runs the fridge inside.

The results:
- The fridge consumes about 25-30W while cooling down in eco mode (and works indefinitely! either I’m charging or not)
- When I plug in the Blue Yeti power station (as a test), it consumes an additional 80W (110W in total)
- Both lines have fuses: 15A for the fridge’s line and 20A for the 12V outlet

Just finished, and I’m freaking happy with how it came out 😅

PS BTW if you want to do the same thing (which I obviously recommend), I put all the materials, including my 3D files in the description of the video, you are free to use them. 3D files are available for free, it's an easy 3 hour print. And I rewired everything shortly after and it took me just merely 2 hours for everything. It's pretty easy when you know what to do 😅

And the how to video:


IMG_2415.webp

IMG_2417.webp

IMG_2416.webp


IMG_2419.webp
@Leo Snow , can you please share a link again to the 3d print file for the little blocks in the back that keep the fridge stationary? Can’t seem to find it using my best search skills which admittedly aren’t that good.
 
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Leo Snow

Leo Snow

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Koozie

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I finished my recent project: split the frunk 48v power line into 2 12V lines:

- Installed a 12V outlet in the frunk
- Made a custom housing for it to ensure it’s super robust and looks OEM
- Ran it through an electrical 48V-to-12V splitter
- Made 2 parallel lines
- The second line runs the fridge inside.

The results:
- The fridge consumes about 25-30W while cooling down in eco mode (and works indefinitely! either I’m charging or not)
- When I plug in the Blue Yeti power station (as a test), it consumes an additional 80W (110W in total)
- Both lines have fuses: 15A for the fridge’s line and 20A for the 12V outlet

Just finished, and I’m freaking happy with how it came out 😅

PS BTW if you want to do the same thing (which I obviously recommend), I put all the materials, including my 3D files in the description of the video, you are free to use them. 3D files are available for free, it's an easy 3 hour print. And I rewired everything shortly after and it took me just merely 2 hours for everything. It's pretty easy when you know what to do 😅

And the how to video:


IMG_2415.webp

IMG_2417.webp

IMG_2416.webp


IMG_2419.webp
Awesome
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