Recall bulletin SB-25-90-001 Off Road Lightbar fix - new version with bracket

[resellpanda88]

I was talking to my local service advisor, and he said that they are black maybe this was an early test and that is all they had?

Even better. Hoping they will offer it in their shop soon.

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[Baldyloxx]

so.. one small detail which I missed in this thread..

they actually have to drill (and tap, hopefully) a couple holes into the Roof/CantRail structure to attach this bracket?

the mounting locations are not preexisting?

 

[Art138]

so.. one small detail which I missed in this thread..

they actually have to drill (and tap, hopefully) a couple holes into the Roof/CantRail structure to attach this bracket?

the mounting locations are not preexisting?

One hole per side;correct those holes are none existen.

 

[Timthehelipilot]

When anyone gets this recall completed it would be great to see the after photos for all of us waiting to get this done.

 

[hemiarch]

When anyone gets this recall completed it would be great to see the after photos for all of us waiting to get this done.

For sure. Want to see it too.
It’s a look somewhat popularized by the movie Forest Gump.

 

[HMGT3]

Hi. So correct me if I’m wrong.
For Cybertrucks that had the roof light bar installed using glue, the glue needs to be completely removed first. After that, double-sided automotive tape is applied, and then the brackets are installed.
So the final setup would be no glue at all, only double-sided tape (for positioning) plus the brackets for the actual mounting.
Is that correct?

 

[hemiarch]

Hi. So correct me if I’m wrong.
For Cybertrucks that had the roof light bar installed using glue, the glue needs to be completely removed first. After that, double-sided automotive tape is applied, and then the brackets are installed.
So the final setup would be no glue at all, only double-sided tape (for positioning) plus the brackets for the actual mounting.
Is that correct?

No. I think if it’s already adequately stuck they put the braces on and call it a day. If it’s coming off, they likely put on a new bar with tape. I have scraped the Tesla adhesive off one of these and it’s incredibly time consuming. Not a sausage’s chance on the grill they are going to have service centers do that.

 

[Art138]

Hi. So correct me if I’m wrong.
For Cybertrucks that had the roof light bar installed using glue, the glue needs to be completely removed first. After that, double-sided automotive tape is applied, and then the brackets are installed.
So the final setup would be no glue at all, only double-sided tape (for positioning) plus the brackets for the actual mounting.
Is that correct?
[/

No. I think if it’s already adequately stuck they put the braces on and call it a day. If it’s coming off, they likely put on a new bar with tape. I have scraped the Tesla adhesive off one of these and it’s incredibly time consuming. Not a sausage’s chance on the grill they are going to have service centers do that.

That’s my understanding also.

 

[RayzorBEV]

Who is lucky enough to get their lighbar recall done? I've been hounding my local SC to repair one and to install on another Beast for a while, they kept telling me they don't have the lightbars or the brackets

 

[bg002h]

That’s my understanding also.

I would never trust the glue to hold. I’ve had it done twice. And it failed twice.

That said, in theory, the glue should hold really really well. I imagine that the tape is much easier to apply correctly in practice (and I am guessing in theory the tape should be able to do the job on its own). Right now all I have is glue residue and a broken cable sticking out of the roof to show for my two attempts to get it installed.

 

[Art138]

I would never trust the glue to hold. I’ve had it done twice. And it failed twice.

That said, in theory, the glue should hold really really well. I imagine that the tape is much easier to apply correctly in practice (and I am guessing in theory the tape should be able to do the job on its own). Right now all I have is glue residue and a broken cable sticking out of the roof to show for my two attempts to get it installed.

They did a good job at my SC. I waited a few weeks before the bracket fix recall put a hold on everything. Have had mine up to 90 mph without issue. I still want the brackets for backup. I wonder how they are going to peel of your adhesive residue. I would hate to have an uneven fit. Good luck.

 

[hemiarch]

They did a good job at my SC. I waited a few weeks before the bracket fix recall put a hold on everything. Have had mine up to 90 mph without issue. I still want the brackets for backup. I wonder how they are going to peel of your adhesive residue. I would hate to have an uneven fit. Good luck.

The market is going got be flooded with removed ones of these in my opinion because they won’t. They will reject them and install new ones. It’s a BITCH to do.
then someone is gonna install LED’s in those rejects and sell them. That’s my prediction.
If you want to see what it looks like I posted some pics here I think:
https://www.cybertruckownersclub.com/forum/threads/best-way-to-glue-on-a-used-oem-beast-bar.45326/

 

[Professor]

I would never trust the glue to hold. I’ve had it done twice. And it failed twice.

That said, in theory, the glue should hold really really well. I imagine that the tape is much easier to apply correctly in practice (and I am guessing in theory the tape should be able to do the job on its own). Right now all I have is glue residue and a broken cable sticking out of the roof to show for my two attempts to get it installed.

I installed my own using 3M VHB tape with adhesive promoter. No problems yet. if the brackets become available i may buy a set and put them on as well. i never trusted their glue. I've seen pictures of the residue. the light bar is not a perfect fit to the windshield so there are gaps that the glue tries to fill. Tape does a much better job in that regard.

 

[Tallgeese179]

Agree with @Professor here. Talking to an 3M rep or using the guide is useful for picking the right thickness and model number of VHB to use.

Glass Adhesion Promoter: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065484/

Plastic Adhesion Promoter (this stuff rocks):
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065491/

Things to consider: temperature during application, time to fully "cure"/wet our, surface area to satisfy the loads and types of loads experienced (shear, axial, or gravity/weight), and clamping loads required given the tape surface area in order to meet minimum psi requirements when pressing the surfaces together.

That last one is a doozy, because there are circumstances in which multiple discrete tape segments will better hold than one massive monolithic pad due to the inability to press down hard enough. Especially critical on a windshield. This is why you see people use urethane rollers on the tape to ensure wet out. Temperature affects this and how long the clamping load must be sustained before full cure.

Luckily this is all documented because it's 3M. Unlikely, it doesn't make it any easier in certain scenarios, it simply informs you that you are doing it wrong

 

[HMGT3]

Agree with @Professor here. Talking to an 3M rep or using the guide is useful for picking the right thickness and model number of VHB to use.

Glass Adhesion Promoter: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065484/

Plastic Adhesion Promoter (this stuff rocks):
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065491/

Things to consider: temperature during application, time to fully "cure"/wet our, surface area to satisfy the loads and types of loads experienced (shear, axial, or gravity/weight), and clamping loads required given the tape surface area in order to meet minimum psi requirements when pressing the surfaces together.

That last one is a doozy, because there are circumstances in which multiple discrete tape segments will better hold than one massive monolithic pad due to the inability to press down hard enough. Especially critical on a windshield. This is why you see people use urethane rollers on the tape to ensure wet out. Temperature affects this and how long the clamping load must be sustained before full cure.

Luckily this is all documented because it's 3M. Unlikely, it doesn't make it any easier in certain scenarios, it simply informs you that you are doing it wrong

That’s great. Can you tell us more about the tape you used? Size, thickness. How you applied it?
Thanks

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