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Magnetic sticker damage - how to restore stainless steel finish?

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Had a chance to try out Walter Blendex pads. This is what it looked like before-- almost a mirror finish where I used the metal polish.

Tesla Cybertruck Magnetic sticker damage - how to restore stainless steel finish? IMG_6874


This is after Walter Blendex 614 and 615. The mirror spot is gone. I only did the left side of the tailgate and the finish matches well. I can still see the etched spots but they are barely noticeable now . I will probably need to get the more aggressive 613 pad to get them out.

Tesla Cybertruck Magnetic sticker damage - how to restore stainless steel finish? IMG_6876


Here are the etched spots now. Still visible, but only if you are looking for them. So success overall.

Tesla Cybertruck Magnetic sticker damage - how to restore stainless steel finish? IMG_6877
Tesla Cybertruck Magnetic sticker damage - how to restore stainless steel finish? IMG_6878
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CybertruckPilot

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I used the LiME LiNE 6" Hook & Loop Scuffing Discs for Orbital Dual Action Sanders, (Red 3 Pack)
found on Amazon. Red is 600 grit and gray is 800 grit. Used a random orbit sander, got my green pad scratches and magnet spots out, and left a normal finish. You could probably get by with using only the red 600 grit pads (8 pack is less than $40).
 

CyberGus

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Can I borrow your sander? Apparently I need it at work:

Tesla Cybertruck Magnetic sticker damage - how to restore stainless steel finish? IMG_2073


I'm dying to know what the hell they put on a stainless elevator door to make this horrific mess lol
 

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It's a great reminder not to attach magnetic emblems to the CT’s stainless steel panels. The SS pitting is pretty significant.

You would need to grind a significant amount of material away to totally eliminate the pitting.

Tesla Cybertruck Magnetic sticker damage - how to restore stainless steel finish? IMG_2797
 
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I used the LiME LiNE 6" Hook & Loop Scuffing Discs for Orbital Dual Action Sanders, (Red 3 Pack)
found on Amazon. Red is 600 grit and gray is 800 grit. Used a random orbit sander, got my green pad scratches and magnet spots out, and left a normal finish. You could probably get by with using only the red 600 grit pads (8 pack is less than $40).
Thank you, I ordered the red 3-pack from Amazon. Sounds like it would be close to Walter Blendex Medium 07R613, which I understand is 320 grit equivalent.
 


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Can I borrow your sander? Apparently I need it at work:

IMG_2073.webp


I'm dying to know what the hell they put on a stainless elevator door to make this horrific mess lol
Sure thing. I also have plenty of Walter Blendex pads now, as they come in packs of 20.

Tesla should consider selling refinishing kits with three Blendex pads, one of each grade.
 

Tallgeese179

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Man that pitting is WILD. I'm still not sure that the viewing angle isn't playing tricks on me, but it looks like 1mm deep craters! I've had similar success with the Blendex pads, correct throw DA sander, and Citrisurf 77 for post sanding passivation.

I will likely be refinishing and ceramic coating my frunk at the minimum. I just really enjoy the hydrophobic properties of ceramic coated surfaces and if it ever starts failing I can just sand it off and reapply in the future. It'll be good insurance against acid staining/etching, since ceramic coatings stand up to acid very well.
 

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I will likely be refinishing and ceramic coating my frunk at the minimum. I just really enjoy the hydrophobic properties of ceramic coated surfaces and if it ever starts failing I can just sand it off and reapply in the future.
Yup, I buffed the frunk lid to erase some obvious scratches/defects, and then ceramic-coated the whole truck. So far I am pleased.

As with all coatings, prep is key. I went over all stainless with BKF and cleaned to surgical standards; the ceramic application was the easy part.
 
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Tallgeese179

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Yep, I did a 2 step paint correction in our X7 before ceramic coating everything short of the windshield. Has held up very well, just needed a lot of acidic wash to clear out all of the embedded gunk from the cold winter in PGH.

I have all of the Tesla recommended refinishing supplies so I'll use that and then hit it with 50:50 IPA /Distilled Water before applying the coating. Probably going to try Carpro Lite 2.0 since it's very lax on application and post application exposure to water. Don't have a garage big enough to let it sit for 2 days and cure like a proper coating would prefer. I already coated the roof glass with Adams Graphene Glass Coating and the bed walls/appliques with CarPro DLUX. Cleaned up real nice after a gross winter.
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