Cleaning routines you recommend?

[hemiarch]

I wonder how well the ceramic coat would work on just the raw stainless without the PPF then. I want to find a solution to keep the raw stainless because I like it, but also keep it looking clean.

There are a couple YouTube videos I think on that subject.
I did not have 43 minutes to critically appraise but this looks solid

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[That Beast Mode]

There are a couple YouTube videos I think on that subject.
I did not have 43 minutes to critically appraise but this looks solid

Thanks, gonna check it out.

 

[Tallgeese179]

I just wanted to chime in on the DA vs RO part since the discussion has popped up in a few threads.

@CyberGus I think you may be confusing some terms. Random Orbital and Dual Action are typically two names for the same tool. For polishing paint at least, the machine types are:

Rotary: old school, just rotational motion, cuts fast, blows through edges easily, and leaves holograms on soft paint.

Dual Action/Random Orbital: rotational drive axis and pad axis are offset (orbital diameter) with a counter balance weight used to balance the eccentric load resulting from the offset. Cut still primarily comes from rotation, but also the linear component of motion of the pad moving through the orbital diameter. Safety feature is that if the pad catches edges or isn't flat, the rotational motion is nearly stopped, leaving only much safer but slower cutting orbital motion. Typical referred to as stalling the pad.

Forced Rotation: a geared mechanism locks the rotational and orbital motion of an otherwise DA machine, forcing the pad to keep the rotational component of motion even when the previously mentioned stall scenarios are encountered.

Rotary was king for a long time, but it was high risk high reward. Dual Action was a godsend for DIYers, because they could polish at home and not blow through paint. However, with most machines being 8mm throw and 5" pads, hard clear coats (like some German ones) took forever to correct (I like this pain personally). Forced Rotation was a compromise with some safety but faster cutting. However with the introduction of the Rupes Bigfoot (21mm throw, 6" pad) and Meguiars microfiber cutting pads, there's basically no point in using the other options unless you are space restricted or can't afford the good stuff. Today there's plenty of options, I have a 21 from Milwaukee that is battery powered and works great. Very powerful so it doesn't stall easily.

This is all a long way to say, DA/RO are the same. What you are looking for is a forced rotation sander, which Bosch does make. However the orbit is wrong and that mode is typical just used for aggressive material removal. There are also gear driven DA's from Rupes, Flex, and surprisingly Harbor Freight.

If I had to guess, as @HaulingAss has mentioned before, your overlap and pad pressure may not be consistent. Variables to play with are pad pressure, arm speed, machine speed, and pass overlap. Tesla says 1", which they probably mean to say "only move down in 1" increments as you work side to side". So most of the previous pass will be overlapped by the new one. This is slow but avoids the tiger stirpes. I absolutely did a better job than the bozo that probably touched my driver's side rear door up at some point.

I'll say that I hope this doesn't come across as condescending or anything of the like. Just sharing hours and hours of content consumption from over the years from folks that are pros. The best part about the CT: you have SOOO much material to work with you could screw it up a hundred times and probably still have barely removed any material thickness. Keep on trying and I know you'll get it

 

[Tallgeese179]

I guess this exact sander for my repair. Driver's side is OEM, passenger side is my work after an unfortunate motorcycle accident (he merged into me as I was passing in the left lane) .

Definitely could do better and probably will in the spring/summer. It's miles better than the butchered driver's side rear door that the truck was delivered to me with 🫣

https://www.acmetools.com/milwaukee...16-inch-bare-tool-2585-20/S0000000080105.html

 

[Tallgeese179]

Last note, if you want to truly understand (maybe even grok [verb, not the AI]) the different types of machines, watch Larry's ATA series. This particular video is relevant:

 

[CyberGus]

@CyberGus I think you may be confusing some terms. Random Orbital and Dual Action are typically two names for the same tool.

Thanks for your input. While many use the terms DA and RO interchangeably, there are vast differences in the action, gearing, consistency, and quality; basically anything that isn't directly mounted on the motor shaft is RO and/or DA.

Tesla calls out a specific pattern:

The 5mm orbit seems to require a specific tool; my buffer merely describes itself as "elliptical".

The "Movement Pattern" in the diagram suggests advancing by 25mm (~1 inch), which I did, but I don't understand the notation "25 mm / 12.5 mm". Dealer's choice? Or "25MM except in California"??!?

The horizontal (ish) surface of the frunk lid made it easy to maintain constant speed and pressure, but I performed dozens and dozens of passes with varied parameters and yet the striping remained. I had to deviate from the process via cross-hatching to eliminate it.

The Tesla procedure definitely assumes some level of proficiency of the operator, as they give only general guidance (e.g., "Continue to sand until the finish is consistent"). I sanded a single panel for three goddamn days lol.

I will say that the VF pad (~800 grit) at the lowest speed (~2800 RPMs) hardly does anything. I took a pass on my back door, which is slightly more diffuse than the adjacent door, and I could barely tell, if at all. HFS is aptly named. (My rear-left door clearly came from a different batch than the rest of the truck, but I'm the only one that really notices.)

In fact, I covered the truck with Dawn using a foam cannon, and proceeded to scrub the stainless with the VF pad at the lowest speed. It was clean AF lol

 

[Mini2nut]

Your 2025 rear door came from the factory like this?

https://cdn.cybertruckownersclub.com/attachments/108/108814-f10c0ebdef9cf3517989f0b3d1a45872.webp

 

[Fugue]

I bought a stainless steel truck so I don't have to wash it. YMMV.

 

[CyberGus]

I guess this exact sander for my repair. Driver's side is OEM, passenger side is my work after an unfortunate motorcycle accident (he merged into me as I was passing in the left lane) .

Definitely could do better and probably will in the spring/summer. It's miles better than the butchered driver's side rear door that the truck was delivered to me with 🫣

Clearly I'm not the only one having this issue, hahahaha. I've seen so many bad repairs, some directly from Tesla. Hopefully it's just a matter of practice.

Your work looks much better, good luck with it

 

[CyberGus]

Your 2025 rear door came from the factory like this?

https://cdn.cybertruckownersclub.com/attachments/108/108814-f10c0ebdef9cf3517989f0b3d1a45872.webp

I'm assuming the botched repair wasn't from the factory, but the work of a Service Center that lacks both skill and pride.

 

[Tallgeese179]

Your 2025 rear door came from the factory like this?

https://cdn.cybertruckownersclub.com/attachments/108/108814-f10c0ebdef9cf3517989f0b3d1a45872.webp

Correct, with an 8/2025 build date fresh off the truck. Not sure if the SC did some touchups, but what I'm showing you is how I received it . Honestly I didn't notice it until a few weeks after delivery. Now that I can refinish the exterior on my own, I don't feel like wasting my time at an SC to have it potentially fixed or potentially made worse.

 

[bigcong]

I do touchalot drive thru, just remember turn on the wash mode. For touchless mode, Spray foam use a spray bottle at a rainy day helps

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