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Kryptek

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How was the CT behaving in -50-60F temps? I've camped out a few times in -40f and the heat pump was going pretty hard.
https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/cybertruck/en_us/GUID-7FE78D73-0A17-47C4-B21B-54F641FFAEF4.html
1780776206233-q8.webp
My truck does amazing, I had one day at like -52f when the heater would not start, a few hours in a warm garage repaired that error code. We were at -40 for about 2 months solid and set a new record 138 days below 0f without a warmer day this last winter my personal truck has done amazing no issues with the pcs yet.

The battery life is very good with 0% (122.83 kw ) (23,135 miles) degradation says the Tessie app. I think they are healthier in colder temps than warmer, does not damage the cells nearly as much above 80% soc when near 0f.
 
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JCERRN

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How's the repairs going? Are you sure you want a repaired truck instead of a new one? I'd be concerned with the aluminum unibody that may have tiny stress fractures elsewhere that could get worse over time when driving over speed bumps or off-road rough terrain.
The front and rear castings are aluminum, the “cabin” is steel. They are essentially bolted together. The genius is the front and rear shatter or crush and can be replaced the steel box stays intact.
 

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The front and rear castings are aluminum, the “cabin” is steel. They are essentially bolted together. The genius is the front and rear shatter or crush and can be replaced the steel box stays intact.
Yep. I'd be worried about the cross members and suspension mounting points being compromised in the future. Unfortunately there's no separate steel frame.
 
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Further down the rabbit hole!

Payless repair in anchorage has denied the job after sitting in the lot for 33 days. They claim they dont do HV stuff, and to replace the giga casting you need to drop the battery. They could not coordinate with anchorage tesla service center to have them do the work they could not at the shop.

Insurance has chosen Murrays CarStar in De Moines Washington. They are a tesla certified repair shop, the cybertruck has been selected to be shipped to the lower 48 for repair.

I have no time line yet, as this is all brand new information through the pipe.

Murrays does have a negative review on google from a cybertruck owner claiming the vehicle was stripped down and assembled, they missed some plug ins and the truck was throwing charging errors at home, but they did not test supercharging which would not work. It took another service center visit to diagnose and repair the missed connections. So, hopefully they dont drop the ball on any of this...
 


MCraft99

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Further down the rabbit hole!

Payless repair in anchorage has denied the job after sitting in the lot for 33 days. They claim they dont do HV stuff, and to replace the giga casting you need to drop the battery. They could not coordinate with anchorage tesla service center to have them do the work they could not at the shop.

Insurance has chosen Murrays CarStar in De Moines Washington. They are a tesla certified repair shop, the cybertruck has been selected to be shipped to the lower 48 for repair.

I have no time line yet, as this is all brand new information through the pipe.

Murrays does have a negative review on google from a cybertruck owner claiming the vehicle was stripped down and assembled, they missed some plug ins and the truck was throwing charging errors at home, but they did not test supercharging which would not work. It took another service center visit to diagnose and repair the missed connections. So, hopefully they dont drop the ball on any of this...
This is another reason why I would try to total it and buy new. Letting service techs tear apart the vehicle and expecting them to not miss anything is gambling. The assembly plants have better accountability and QA than just trusting the service tech to do everything right. There's thousands of things that can go wrong.
 

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Further down the rabbit hole!

Payless repair in anchorage has denied the job after sitting in the lot for 33 days. They claim they dont do HV stuff, and to replace the giga casting you need to drop the battery. They could not coordinate with anchorage tesla service center to have them do the work they could not at the shop.

Insurance has chosen Murrays CarStar in De Moines Washington. They are a tesla certified repair shop, the cybertruck has been selected to be shipped to the lower 48 for repair.

I have no time line yet, as this is all brand new information through the pipe.

Murrays does have a negative review on google from a cybertruck owner claiming the vehicle was stripped down and assembled, they missed some plug ins and the truck was throwing charging errors at home, but they did not test supercharging which would not work. It took another service center visit to diagnose and repair the missed connections. So, hopefully they dont drop the ball on any of this...
There's got to be some kind of provision in the insurance for of loss of the use of the truck for so long, right?
 
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Kryptek

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There's got to be some kind of provision in the insurance for of loss of the use of the truck for so long, right?
from my understanding they must pay me the loss of use (882$) bi weekly until the vehicle or a new is in possession. I also plan to file a diminished value claim and get back a substantial amount over 10k
 

HaulingAss

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from my understanding they must pay me the loss of use (882$) bi weekly until the vehicle or a new is in possession. I also plan to file a diminished value claim and get back a substantial amount over 10k
Having to ship it from Alaska to Kansas City would, to me, be the straw that broke the camel's back and I would lobby to have it totalled.

The fact that they have to pay you $882 every two weeks until it's repaired and you will be lobbying for dimished value compensation, and they will have to cover transport to/from the service center all work in your favor if you just point out to them this could become more expensive than the $70K it's worth. If they cash you out, you can simply buy another one in comparable condition/mileage to your pre-accident Cybertruck. I'm not saying they will go for this, but it might be worth a try. Such repairs are almost always more involved than what is known before it's completely disassembled.

Remind them that the crashed Cybertruck has value on the open market, they should just sell it as a crashed vehicle and cash you out. A lot of times the agents working for these insurance companies are stupid, giving them a helping hand can flip a lightbulb in their head and give them a less risky out. Nothing is going to make you completely whole again, once your time and effort is considered, but you want to move on with the least risk going forward.
 
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Kryptek

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Having to ship it from Alaska to Kansas City would, to me, be the straw that broke the camel's back and I would lobby to have it totalled.

The fact that they have to pay you $882 every two weeks until it's repaired and you will be lobbying for dimished value compensation, and they will have to cover transport to/from the service center all work in your favor if you just point out to them this could become more expensive than the $70K it's worth. If they cash you out, you can simply buy another one in comparable condition/mileage to your pre-accident Cybertruck. I'm not saying they will go for this, but it might be worth a try. Such repairs are almost always more involved than what is known before it's completely disassembled.

Remind them that the crashed Cybertruck has value on the open market, they should just sell it as a crashed vehicle and cash you out. A lot of times the agents working for these insurance companies are stupid, giving them a helping hand can flip a lightbulb in their head and give them a less risky out. Nothing is going to make you completely whole again, once your time and effort is considered, but you want to move on with the least risk going forward.
De Moines Washington, not Idaho or another state. lol I get your point though, Washington is the closest USA territory to Alaska alas. I think the cap they are willing to pay is around 50k for the entire kaboodle. It will be close to that once it’s all said and done. Who knows I could find out Monday they crunched some numbers and decided total loss, as I had mentioned that as a possibility and they said it’s not impossible.
 


HaulingAss

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De Moines Washington, not Idaho or another state. lol I get your point though, Washington is the closest USA territory to Alaska alas. I think the cap they are willing to pay is around 50k for the entire kaboodle. It will be close to that once it’s all said and done. Who knows I could find out Monday they crunched some numbers and decided total loss, as I had mentioned that as a possibility and they said it’s not impossible.
The other driver's insurance is responsible for making you whole again. If they total it, that means they need to pay you enough that you could buy another one just like it on the used market. Have you checked how much that would cost? Was it a Foundation Series?
 
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Kryptek

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The other driver's insurance is responsible for making you whole again. If they total it, that means they need to pay you enough that you could buy another one just like it on the used market. Have you checked how much that would cost? Was it a Foundation Series?
I don’t want a used cyber, only mine is acceptable used because I know where it’s been and how.

pretending they total loss it, they pay off the remainder of my balance ie 59k and the remainder of the acv (maybe 75k) after loan payout is given to me. If that’s the case I’ll use that as a down payment on a new cyber.

They are only responsible for the acv, which is a nice way of saying what your car was worth one nano second before impact. This is a factor determined by software and comps in your area. I wish they were responsible for a brand new car, but that’s only for certain policies and I think it has to be your insurance policy not third party.

it was not a fs even though my original order was a fs beast, could not get financed for the beast 2 years ago. Tracking recent sales looks to be worth around 75k avg. I still have 59k on the loan.
 
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dalton108

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I don’t want a used cyber, only mine is acceptable used because I know where it’s been and how.

pretending they total loss it, they pay off the remainder of my balance ie 59k and the remainder of the acv (maybe 75k) after loan payout is given to me. If that’s the case I’ll use that as a down payment on a new cyber.

They are only responsible for the acv, which is a nice way of saying what your car was worth one nano second before impact. This is a factor determined by software and comps in your area. I wish they were responsible for a brand new car, but that’s only for certain policies and I think it has to be your insurance policy not third party.

it was not a fs even though my original order was a fs beast, could not get financed for the beast 2 years ago. Tracking recent sales looks to be worth around 75k avg. I still have 59k on the loan.
Totally sucks, man. Hope everything works out in your favor. Hate to see somebody else’s carelessness set you back like this.
 

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I don’t want a used cyber, only mine is acceptable used because I know where it’s been and how.
I totally understand that. But if it gets repaired that probably introduces more unknowns than a good condition used one.

pretending they total loss it, they pay off the remainder of my balance ie 59k and the remainder of the acv (maybe 75k) after loan payout is given to me. If that’s the case I’ll use that as a down payment on a new cyber.
I think the value of used Cybertruck's may have gone up since your accident. In the end, they may not have the right to use those lower values (of the truck at the time of the accident). I just know they will generally try to give you the least you will accept without suing them.

They are only responsible for the acv, which is a nice way of saying what your car was worth one nano second before impact. This is a factor determined by software and comps in your area.
I asked Grok about this:

Important post-payment protection (unique to Alaska regs): If you notify the insurer within 60 days after receiving the settlement payment that you cannot purchase a comparable vehicle in your local for the amount they paid, they must reopen the claim file and take steps to make you whole. This can include locating a vehicle at that price (plus fees), paying the difference for one you found, negotiating the purchase, or using the policy’s appraisal clause. There are limited exceptions (e.g., if they documented a specific available vehicle that you didn’t buy promptly).

In your scenario with rising values, this 60-day window could potentially help if the initial payout (based on pre-loss value) is no longer enough to buy a comparable shortly after payment.

I don't envy your position because you generally have to have some back/forth (sometimes sue) to receive what they should just give you in the first place. The over-arching standard when the other driver was at fault is to make you whole again. When my legally parked Model 3 Performance was backed into by my neighbors F-150, I picked the repair facility, ignoring the list of her insurance companies preferred body shops, and they had to pay the full cost of the work to bring it back to how it was before the damage. I refused to accept payment checks from the insurance company, telling them to just pay the body shop for the work so, when it was completed, I could pick it up.
 
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Kryptek

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I totally understand that. But if it gets repaired that probably introduces more unknowns than a good condition used one.



I think the value of used Cybertruck's may have gone up since your accident. In the end, they may not have the right to use those lower values (of the truck at the time of the accident). I just know they will generally try to give you the least you will accept without suing them.



I asked Grok about this:

Important post-payment protection (unique to Alaska regs): If you notify the insurer within 60 days after receiving the settlement payment that you cannot purchase a comparable vehicle in your local for the amount they paid, they must reopen the claim file and take steps to make you whole. This can include locating a vehicle at that price (plus fees), paying the difference for one you found, negotiating the purchase, or using the policy’s appraisal clause. There are limited exceptions (e.g., if they documented a specific available vehicle that you didn’t buy promptly).

In your scenario with rising values, this 60-day window could potentially help if the initial payout (based on pre-loss value) is no longer enough to buy a comparable shortly after payment.

I don't envy your position because you generally have to have some back/forth (sometimes sue) to receive what they should just give you in the first place. The over-arching standard when the other driver was at fault is to make you whole again. When my legally parked Model 3 Performance was backed into by my neighbors F-150, I picked the repair facility, ignoring the list of her insurance companies preferred body shops, and they had to pay the full cost of the work to bring it back to how it was before the damage. I refused to accept payment checks from the insurance company, telling them to just pay the body shop for the work so, when it was completed, I could pick it up.
Did you file a claim for diminished value?
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