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Honda 10,000W Range Extender?

cybercricket

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Ideally you do want an inverter type generator, these have the lowest THD, which is best for any electronics. I’ve previously narrowed my search down to the biggest inverter type Honda makes (and as a bonus it is also super quiet). Thier EU7000iS is their biggest inverter type. An ideal set up for me would be two of these (for a total of 14kW), wired in parallel (they have allowance for this, using a pre-wired harness), it would easily give me 40amp at 240V continuous (at ~85% load) . I would by pass the mobile charger route and go right to a hard wired level 2 charger, so charge rate would be just like those set at 40 amp (rather than the max 48) in a home level 2 set up. From looking into it, and from input from other forums/threads, I’d likely have to bond neutral to ground to make the charger happy.

This gives redundancy too, and the bonus of being super quiet. And it’s a Honda…not cheap, but way less than the former ER option that is now cancelled. The 10,000 watt he’s using is not an inverter type, but if it works well, it may still be an option for me too. There is also a duel fuel Duramax at 12kw I was looking at too, but it’s not a Honda (?). There is also a possible conversation kit to dual fuel with them (Honda), but not sure it’s worth it for me.

I’ve abandoned going solar at all for main pack charging, as it just won’t fit my needs. I do have a couple panels for my camp power though.

This high cost and entire set up is not needed if you camp within range of power (obviously). But that is not my use case.

Another advantage is they would not be in the truck during normal work driving, so not hauling the extra weight around all the time (as I would if I could have gotten the ER pack).

Glass is always half full I guess.

Looking forward to hearing how his set up works out.
The main problem that inverter is solving is the ability to ramp down the engine RPMs. Generators without inverters have to maintain steady RPMs in order to maintain the output frequency even under small (or without) load.
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Oden's Beast

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The main problem that inverter is solving is the ability to ramp down the engine RPMs. Generators without inverters have to maintain steady RPMs in order to maintain the output frequency even under small (or without) load.
Thats 100% true, especially useful in situations with varying loads (power requirements constantly increasing and decreasing, i.e. a home being backed up by a generator). Allows occupants using computers or other even more sensitive electronics to have no issues when their air conditioner constantly turns on, and then cycles off, the generator can ramp up to meet demand, or slowdown, while maintaining the “clean” power supply (a constant voltage and frequency).

Inverter generators make A/C power from the spinning of their generator, then this A/C current is “converted” to DC power, then the inverter changes this DC back to A/C. This inverter circuit is the important part, it’s how it can increase and decrease RPM via demand, but to me, more importantly, it completely decouples the output from the gas motor, and allows it to provide very stable, clean power, no matter what the motor is doing. even when under very constant loads dirty power can spike (like when you run out of gas or do a restart). Saying it has a very low Total Harmonic Distortion (THD), is just saying it’s always a super stable “clean” power, with no transient spikes. A super stable, clean sine wave output, is constantly provided.

Under a constant 40 amp charge demand (literally for a hours), it becomes less important to ramp up or down RPM, but the need for super clean power stays there, feeding the more sensitive control electronics in the charge circuit.

It’s really just insurance to likely not have issues caused by “dirty” power.
 

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There is probably nothing wrong with that generator. You can hook up an oscilloscope and check the sinewave for noise and verify the frequency.
Under a steady constant demand, this is likely true, now keep the scope hooked up
during stops and starts, or when you motor gurgles because of water, or other… bad gas, fouling plugs, etc….

In a world with a perfect guaranteed running motor, and with scheduled stops and starts (breakers being flipped to off before gen is stopped or started), all should be good. But I never have that luck..?.

It just comes down to risk tolerances to me. I’m inherently risk adverse.

Now, if I was powering flood lights or power saws at a job site, I would not even consider an inverter generator for that application.
 


mcm4ss

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There was a totally trucked up episode where he used a 11k Champion and it worked great. Something about it being able to reach a "level 2" I have a 9k Firman and am thinking of switching to the 11k Champion just for that reason. Best I can get with 9k is 5500 actual watts into the truck. After that the Firman or the truck ( I don't know) just stops charging.
 

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The reason I bring up the clean power with a beverage is because I have a friend with some older solar panels and just clouds cause the production to change enough to cause damage to everything he owns. Everything has in line PSU and things that don’t, like his dryer has burned out the heating filament 5 times. Bought a new dryer, Burt out in a month.
 

cybercricket

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The reason I bring up the clean power with a beverage is because I have a friend with some older solar panels and just clouds cause the production to change enough to cause damage to everything he owns. Everything has in line PSU and things that don’t, like his dryer has burned out the heating filament 5 times. Bought a new dryer, Burt out in a month.
That makes little sense. I know some grid-tied inverters have a backup mode where they will output a reduced amount of power during an outage WITHOUT a battery and without guarantees, but nothing like needed to run a dryer. So then that system must be an off-grid system with a battery... and solar production won't change the output from the battery, it's either on if there is enough SoC or off. Maybe just cheap/faulty Chinese inverter ? :D
 
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My first EV was a BMW i3 with range extender which was a similar concept to what you're trying to do. It had a BMW motorcycle engine in the back which acted as a generator. The key thing it did which I think you'll have problems with is that it could generate while the vehicle was being used.
 

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I'm thinking 170 miles in 10 hours, two tanks of gas ~ 17 gallons. I don't think I would ever use it for a full charge.
I use a similar generator for this purpose when boondocking with our trailer. Off a single 8 gallon tank I see about 10% range increase and estimated the end-to-end efficiency at about 4-5%. I think it is very optimistic to assume you will get ~60kWh on this setup with 17 gallons of fuel. I would guess you'll see closer to 25kWh.
If you get more than that, I'd love to know about it.
 


BoiseCT

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AND,,, most campgrounds with curfews like that have power.
This is true, but call ahead and make sure they allow it. Many rural RV capable campgrounds (the ones with useful plugs) flat out will not allow you to charge an EV. They won't listen to any explanations on limiting charging rates or safety. I have had two in the last month, while literally standing next to gooseneck trailers sporting dual AC units and all the fixings plugged into their Nema 14-50 outlets, tell me that my truck can't be plugged in because it will melt their pedestals. Morons, being morons.
 

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That makes little sense. I know some grid-tied inverters have a backup mode where they will output a reduced amount of power during an outage WITHOUT a battery and without guarantees, but nothing like needed to run a dryer. So then that system must be an off-grid system with a battery... and solar production won't change the output from the battery, it's either on if there is enough SoC or off. Maybe just cheap/faulty Chinese inverter ? :D
That was my thought, it’s not a battery system, and it’s on grid. I think his issue has something to do with dirty power coming from somewhere else.
 

mcm4ss

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This is true, but call ahead and make sure they allow it. Many rural RV capable campgrounds (the ones with useful plugs) flat out will not allow you to charge an EV. They won't listen to any explanations on limiting charging rates or safety. I have had two in the last month, while literally standing next to gooseneck trailers sporting dual AC units and all the fixings plugged into their Nema 14-50 outlets, tell me that my truck can't be plugged in because it will melt their pedestals. Morons, being morons.
I also have a eco flow I use. I did have someone say something like that so I used it. Takes a lot longer but plugged it into the power pole, and charged the truck using it. Didn't make friends that way, but it worked.
 

DJAlan2000

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Adding a 400 pound generator and 100 pounds of gas is likely going to take a pretty good hit on your mileage though... especially if you are already adding a bunch of other gear...

Someone mentioned the Champion Generator (11.5K) weighs only 205 lbs... (gas is still the same though, sorry - 103 pounds for 17 gallons)...

But it's the difference of 500 lbs (like having 3 friends along for the drive!) or 200 lbs (just 1 friend of MY size)...

Let us know how it goes though... I am very interested in if you actually NEEDED to use it, and, if so, did you do it to get the full 170 miles or did you just get enough to get you to a nearby charger? Say, 25 miles or so...
 
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Ironically I haven't gotten to try it yet because the battery was dead and I had to order one that fits. However, I was able to try the 14-50 mobile charger at work for 4.5 hrs and added 33 kWh or ~ 27% 86 miles. So I think my estimates are good. What I'm concerned about is it's a Canadian Honda with GFCI on every plug so I'm scared it will trip the mobile charger/truck GFCI. Hopefully get to try it in a day or two.
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