Routing wire from aux lighting switch in frunk to the cabin

[anand1017]

Hey everyone - I picked up some auxiliary 12v lights from Baja designs, a 48v to 12v converter and a diode dynamics Dswitch to independently control all of them. Plan is to run them off the the frunk power feed -> 48v to 12v converter -> inline fuse -> Dswitch -> lights. The converter will be mounted behind the frunk but the Dswitch itself will be in the frunk. The Dswitch also comes with a physical switching panel that I want to install in the cabin.
What is the best way to route wiring from the frunk/behind the frunk to the cabin? Is there an easy route or am I going to have to cut/modify panels?

Thanks!

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[AverageJoe]

Many threads on this mostly about fridge power. The route I used was behind frunk=>behind passenger fender=>through rubber grommet into passenger side floor board

Use a wire fisher or long zip tie/coat hanger etc

 

[MCraft99]

I would recommend wireless power controllers like Baja designs' sPoD(bluetooth phone app) or Trigger(comes with wireless toggle switches) instead of running a cable to the cabin through the passenger doorside.

 

[anand1017]

Yeah the Dswitch also has a mobile app for wireless control but has an additional dedicated channel for backlight control so I went for it over the SPod. Wanted to see if routing the physical panel in the cabin would be easy enough or not

 

[That Beast Mode]

Many threads on this mostly about fridge power. The route I used was behind frunk=>behind passenger fender=>through rubber grommet into passenger side floor board

Use a wire fisher or long zip tie/coat hanger etc

I just did an install of the Auxbeam and fridge not long ago and this seemed to be the best route and the one almost everyone else took. Doesn't require any modification other than punching a hole through the rubber grommet shown in the pic above. I took the added step of adding some silicone around the hole where the wire passes through, but I don't know if thats even necessary.

 

[hemiarch]

Many threads on this mostly about fridge power. The route I used was behind frunk=>behind passenger fender=>through rubber grommet into passenger side floor board

Use a wire fisher or long zip tie/coat hanger etc

Mine follows the same Route. Not too hard to do.

 

[Professor]

Just make sure your transformer is big enough and rated for more than 48v. The CT can get into the low 50s. There's a recommended one here somewhere or on my lighting thread. That was my third. The first two were unreliable.

 

[Oden's Beast]

Mine were run the same route, definitely the easiest. I did 3 runs through it from my 12VDC high current winch battery (mounted in the frunk): cabin power (CB), power to my second light bar, and a 30 amp run all the way to a sub panel that I had put in the very rear compartment of my gen 2 Urander top (for 12VDC camp lighting, the bumper reverse light bar, and some auxiliary 12VDC and USB camp outlets).

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