Rear Emergency Door Release Identifier (3D Print)

[CTOmaha]

Maybe start with a list of takers…cost seems reasonable.

So far two people have asked. Will have to think about an assembly line

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[Art138]

So far two people have asked. Will have to think about an assembly line

DM sent

 

[Jabman]

DM also sent

 

[Gkingdom]

Thanks! I just got some yellow Glowing filament for my printer. I'll have to print up a couple of those.

If ur willing to make some I will purchase

 

[CTOmaha]

Maybe start with a list of takers…cost seems reasonable.

Holy crap, list got going really fast overnight. You are first in line.

 

[eswimm]

I printed them out in polycarbonate. Be interested in how PETG holds up in summer temps.

 

[TickTock]

I printed them out in polycarbonate. Be interested in how PETG holds up in summer temps.

I have many PETG parts printed and they hold up fine inside the cabin (I keep overheat protection on). External PETG does deform a bit in the AZ summer heat.

 

[Tallgeese179]

I've been looking around at options for manufacturing method and material on Craftcloud. My go-to for durable parts for automotive use has been SLS Nylon GF, but a few years ago I started using MJF Nylon. Recently they even added glass fill as an option for MFJ, but the issue is the lack of cheap multi-color printing and bad dye coloring on MJF.

If you didn't care about color and just wanted thermally stable and strong parts, I'd print it in glass filled nylon (probably MJF since it has tighter tolerances than SLS) for probably under $100 for everything. However there is always the baller option of sintered aluminum or stainless from China for around $70-100 per handle. I was shocked that it was this cheap to get metal 3d printed parts tbh, but I keep most of my orders US based for speed. Imagine polishing some SS or finishing it to match the exterior of the CT??? . At that point is probably cheaper to use 2 sheet metal parts from SCS and bolt on the contoured piece that engages the yellow door release loop.

I agree with @eswimm about using PC as being better, though I trust that PETG (especially with that bolt/nut reinforcement) is fine and probably much easier for most to print with. Even though I love the quality of prints of my X1C and the great surface finish that chop filled carbon fiber nylon filament can make, I still prefer SLS/MJF for their more isotropic like performance and more uniform surface finish.

 

[eswimm]

I agree with @eswimm about using PC as being better, though I trust that PETG (especially with that bolt/nut reinforcement) is fine and probably much easier for most to print with. Even though I love the quality of prints of my X1C and the great surface finish that chop filled carbon fiber nylon filament can make, I still prefer SLS/MJF for their more isotropic like performance and more uniform surface finish.

Yeah, CF or glass reinforced nylon is my usual go to. All my nylon was black though, so I went to PC so I could at least mix 2 different colors, black and transparent. I'm thinking I may redo them in ASA, once I order a spool of red.

I've used PETG for interior parts and cabin temps are enough for them to deform under load, although unloaded parts will hold their shape fine. The door cavity was concerning to me, since PETG will start to deform between 60 and 70C. PC is good for double that and ASA is good up to about 100C.

Cabin overheat is only for 12h after parking and that only cools the cabin. The working part of this print is inside the door cavity and even my painted Model X doors got hot enough for the ultrasonic sensors to fail in direct sun and those were rated for 100C operation.

 

[Gaximus]

I'm using stickers from Etsy for my front releases, I went with the red and white to match the rest of the interior. The red handles for the back doors would be perfect.

Do these work, everyone that I've had pull the emergency handle, aren't looking at it, when sitting there they rest their arm on the door arm rest, and there hand is just on the handle and it feel natural that, that is where it should be. Just instinct to pull up.

 

[Loudness]

Do these work, everyone that I've had pull the emergency handle, aren't looking at it, when sitting there they rest their arm on the door arm rest, and there hand is just on the handle and it feel natural that, that is where it should be. Just instinct to pull up.

They don't work sometimes, you're right, people don't look. But it let's me feel better when I chastise them and they say "How was I supposed to know?"

It's literally written right there!

 

[TickTock]

They don't work sometimes, you're right, people don't look. But it let's me feel better when I chastise them and they say "How was I supposed to know?"

It's literally written right there!

It doesn't bother me anymore since recent Teslas (including the Cybertruck) do lower the window even when the emergency release is used so there is no concern about damaging the window trim. The reason to label it is so your passenger knows what to use in an emergency. I point out the pushbutton to new riders but don't give it a second thought after that.

 

[Stuck4ger]

It doesn't bother me anymore since recent Teslas (including the Cybertruck) do lower the window even when the emergency release is used so there is no concern about damaging the window trim. The reason to label it is so your passenger knows what to use in an emergency. I point out the pushbutton to new riders but don't give it a second thought after that.

I don’t carry passengers that much but when I do, I either brief them or often I just roll down their windows a couple inches as I’m stopping.

 

[pae1andonly]

At best tangential to current topic: is anyone aware of a 3D print engineering project to direct airflow to keep the rear and wheel-well comeras clean? I'd like to sign on to beta-test! (I did search for this to no avail.)

Don't know if a Venturi tube would be necessary; the simpler step one would be to just direct positive airflow strongly past the camera to deter gunk accumulation.

I've been driving in standard SWPA salt/slush/grime soup and the cameras gunk up almost instantly in any sort of weather. Yes, I can and do squirt the lower front camera off. I do use the wiper in all it's giga-haziness even with washer fluid applied.

The rear and front side wheel-well cameras seem designed to be in an ebb in the air flow. Much as a snow fence decreases wind speed to cause the deposit of snow on the leeward side of the fence, positioning the side and rear cams just beyond a hard angle makes them magnets for road smutz.

Probably will not change until we get a few April gully-washers to clear up the road debris.

I have noticed that running the CT thru a car wash seems to stretch out the cleaned-cams-to-need-to-clean-again interval. As though some of the dirt is sloughing off of the dirty truck itself.

 

[CTOmaha]

To all the people that asked me to make these, I am making progress. Learned some good lessons in last 48 hours of “mass” production vs knickknacks for the hobby. Anyways, Friday I will be shipping out the first few.

And yes my pool table has now become the assembly and QC floor

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