Powering Accessories Struggles - Don't let this happen to you!

[TeslaKen]

I looked at digikey, mouser and others for this Rosenberger automotive fitting but no luck. And even if I found it I need to get the right coax wire and all the special crimp tools to make a nice butt splice. I have some posi-taps on the way. Those are the least destructive way without cutting a wire but will not look great. Will not have time to dive in until the weekend to tackle this. I have a small fuse block as well with some busman 3A fuses.

BTW the other end of this wire connects with the same fitting at the footwell area you’re trying to get to. Click on X0848 and you will see it appears to be just below where Hansshow was tapping in.

So then no need to tap in at center console and run a wire over bur rather tap in at the connector in the footwell? I will go look for it. Which taps did you order?

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[YukonJack]

So then no need to tap in at center console and run a wire over bur rather tap in at the connector in the footwell? I will go look for it. Which taps did you order?

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[TeslaKen]

Posi-Tap 20-22 ga. Mini - Pack of 6. The Best Line Tap You'll Ever Use! (Choose Your Gauge Size and Amount) (6, 20-22 Mini) https://a.co/d/03JIESq0

OK I ordered some in anticipation of needing them.

Posi-Tap 20-22 ga. Mini - Pack of 6. The Best Line Tap You'll Ever Use! (Choose Your Gauge Size and Amount) (6, 20-22 Mini) https://a.co/d/03JIESq0

Here is what I am seeing when I click on that location you spoke of, is this correct?

 

[Shygar]

I'm having trouble following this issue. I just ordered a Hansshow rearview mirror. I don't have the additional screen or light bar. Are you saying the speaker won't work with only the mirror or only when it's in combination with the other things?

 

[PungoteagueDave]

I'm having trouble following this issue. I just ordered a Hansshow rearview mirror. I don't have the additional screen or light bar. Are you saying the speaker won't work with only the mirror or only when it's in combination with the other things?

It's my understanding that all of the currently available mirror camera systems have a harness that fails to pass through the speaker signal when introduced at the footwell connection. For this reason I have a new S92 by Tesstudio, still in box, awaiting installation. Hopefully answers will emerge - either here for a proven method, or from the company, possibly with a replacement harness.

Still waiting... it seems that so many aftermarket parts are great ideas, but half-baked, with potentially damaging results to the OEM systems. I'm enough concerned about future service or software update interference that I may never make this upgrade, although it looks great in the videos. We are now seeing reports that OTA updates are failing due to interference from non-OEM light bars, cameras, LED light strips, etc. I'm joining the "life is too short for this cra*p" crowd.

 

[Shygar]

It's my understanding that all of the currently available mirror camera systems have a harness that fails to pass through the speaker signal when introduced at the footwell connection. For this reason I have a new S92 by Tesstudio, still in box, awaiting installation. Hopefully answers will emerge - either here for a proven method, or from the company, possibly with a replacement harness.

Still waiting... it seems that so many aftermarket parts are great ideas, but half-baked, with potentially damaging results to the OEM systems. I'm enough concerned about future service or software update interference that I may never make this upgrade, although it looks great in the videos. We are now seeing reports that OTA updates are failing due to interference from non-OEM light bars, cameras, LED light strips, etc. I'm joining the "life is too short for this cra*p" crowd.

Which speaker is not working with these?

 

[TeslaKen]

I'm having trouble following this issue. I just ordered a Hansshow rearview mirror. I don't have the additional screen or light bar. Are you saying the speaker won't work with only the mirror or only when it's in combination with the other things?

Correct, the B Pillar speaker (tweeter) shown in my video will not work if you install the wiring harness that comes with the mirror, whether or not you notice that depends on your hearing as there isn't a lot of volume coming from that speaker even when it does work.

 

[TeslaKen]

I looked at digikey, mouser and others for this Rosenberger automotive fitting but no luck. And even if I found it I need to get the right coax wire and all the special crimp tools to make a nice butt splice. I have some posi-taps on the way. Those are the least destructive way without cutting a wire but will not look great. Will not have time to dive in until the weekend to tackle this. I have a small fuse block as well with some busman 3A fuses.

BTW the other end of this wire connects with the same fitting at the footwell area you’re trying to get to. Click on X0848 and you will see it appears to be just below where Hansshow was tapping in.

Hey I looked at this spot today when doing an install of a secondary screen and it is on the 2nd row of connectors behind the 1st row and hard to get to without removing connectors in front of it. Of course you could tap into it further away from the ECU where the connector is. I didn't peel back in wires in that area to look as I was dealing with other issues and running out of time.

 

[YukonJack]

Update:

I was able to tap into the 2nd Row Display “12 V Power” at connector X0879 located just behind the console front panel. I confirmed the voltage here is actually 16.85 VDC similar to the voltage at the cabin camera tap that the V1 rearview camera used.

https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0879f/

Disconnecting X0879 makes it easier to access the split loom and the red(positive) and brown(negative) supply wires.

There is more room here than the passenger footwell for the fuse box and it may be easier to access as TeslaKen mentions. I have a main fuse with 5 Amps that feeds the rest of the block. I’m only using two taps one for a radar detector and the second to the passenger footwell for the Hansshow V2. Both with a 3 Amp fuse. I have no idea what the max power is from the MCU but based on the wire gauge this wouldn’t handle more the 7Amps.

Note: I noticed the power stays on after you exit and lock the vehicle for several minutes. Seems to be about 10 minutes or so.

 

[PungoteagueDave]

Update:

I was able to tap into the 2nd Row Display “12 V Power” at connector X0879 located just behind the console front panel. I confirmed the voltage here is actually 16.85 VDC similar to the voltage at the cabin camera tap that the V1 rearview camera used.

https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0879f/

Disconnecting X0879 makes it easier to access the split loom and the red(positive) and brown(negative) supply wires.

There is more room here than the passenger footwell for the fuse box and it may be easier to access as TeslaKen mentions. I have a main fuse with 5 Amps that feeds the rest of the block. I’m only using two taps one for a radar detector and the second to the passenger footwell for the Hansshow V2. Both with a 3 Amp fuse. I have no idea what the max power is from the MCU but based on the wire gauge this wouldn’t handle more the 7Amps.

Note: I noticed the power stays on after you exit and lock the vehicle for several minutes. Seems to be about 10 minutes or so.

Thanks for this. So for those of use with other models (mine is a Tesstudio S92), this would be a good place to tap for power? And does that mean we should not use the footwell connector at all, instead tap into the mirror harness directly and leave the connector hanging? I'm not an electronics guy but do have a supply of posi-taps and know how to use them in an amateur's way.

 

[TeslaKen]

Update:

I was able to tap into the 2nd Row Display “12 V Power” at connector X0879 located just behind the console front panel. I confirmed the voltage here is actually 16.85 VDC similar to the voltage at the cabin camera tap that the V1 rearview camera used.

https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0879f/

Disconnecting X0879 makes it easier to access the split loom and the red(positive) and brown(negative) supply wires.

There is more room here than the passenger footwell for the fuse box and it may be easier to access as TeslaKen mentions. I have a main fuse with 5 Amps that feeds the rest of the block. I’m only using two taps one for a radar detector and the second to the passenger footwell for the Hansshow V2. Both with a 3 Amp fuse. I have no idea what the max power is from the MCU but based on the wire gauge this wouldn’t handle more the 7Amps.

Note: I noticed the power stays on after you exit and lock the vehicle for several minutes. Seems to be about 10 minutes or so.

Looks great! What did you end up doing with the Hansshow harness that runs to the mirror? Did you pull wires out of that harness and attach to the positive and negative of your fuse box? If so, which wires did you pull out? I tried to install the 10.88 mirror using its harness by unplugging my mirror and ran into other issues with the screen that once I solve I will want to come back and tap in the 10.88 screen's power wires and the ones from the rear view mirror into this location. I wonder why it stays on after you exit. Does it come on the moment you open the door, or does it come on as you get close to the vehicle and the vehicle detects your presence?

 

[YukonJack]

Looks great! What did you end up doing with the Hansshow harness that runs to the mirror? Did you pull wires out of that harness and attach to the positive and negative of your fuse box? If so, which wires did you pull out? I tried to install the 10.88 mirror using its harness by unplugging my mirror and ran into other issues with the screen that once I solve I will want to come back and tap in the 10.88 screen's power wires and the ones from the rear view mirror into this location. I wonder why it stays on after you exit. Does it come on the moment you open the door, or does it come on as you get close to the vehicle and the vehicle detects your presence?

You don’t need any of the Hansshow harness. I didn’t take a pictures but it’s fairly straight forward. The new V2 mirror uses and 5V USB C supply. Follow that line all the way down to the harness and you will see three wires (Red, Yellow, and Black). That line has a voltage converter tied into it (The plastic Box) converting the 12-17 VDC to 5V. Cut those wires where they enter the harness. Tie the Yellow and Red to the positive and the black to negative.

 

[PungoteagueDave]

You don’t need any of the Hansshow harness. I didn’t take a pictures but it’s fairly straight forward. The new V2 mirror uses and 5V USB C supply. Follow that line all the way down to the harness and you will see three wires (Red, Yellow, and Black). That line has a voltage converter tied into it (The plastic Box) converting the 12-17 VDC to 5V. Cut those wires where they enter the harness. Tie the Yellow and Red to the positive and the black to negative.

Doesn't using the mirror harness provide other functions, such as interior light dimming signal for intensity settings? Or is it pure power take-off, with the mirror having its own internal sensors to set brightness? You can tell I'm a backyard hacker on this stuff, but would like to have the function. The S-92 remains in a box until I'm confident in following the leader...

 

[YukonJack]

Doesn't using the mirror harness provide other functions, such as interior light dimming signal for intensity settings? Or is it pure power take-off, with the mirror having its own internal sensors to set brightness? You can tell I'm a backyard hacker on this stuff, but would like to have the function. The S-92 remains in a box until I'm confident in following the leader...

It’s just pulling power.

I’m not sure why the power stays on after exit for a short time. Perhaps its keeping power to the back display for a short time in the event someone is still present.

I posted previously that there are a few unused pins on this harness. If someone wanted they could carefully pull one of those pins out, move the pin to the 8 position, then cut and splice to the(Yellow and Red) wires to get the pin 8 pass through needed for the tweeter audio signal. I really don’t like they tapped this audio line though - otherwise I would have done it.

Here is a picture of where I cut the harness.

 

[TeslaKen]

You don’t need any of the Hansshow harness. I didn’t take a pictures but it’s fairly straight forward. The new V2 mirror uses and 5V USB C supply. Follow that line all the way down to the harness and you will see three wires (Red, Yellow, and Black). That line has a voltage converter tied into it (The plastic Box) converting the 12-17 VDC to 5V. Cut those wires where they enter the harness. Tie the Yellow and Red to the positive and the black to negative.

Sounds good, I can make that happen. I am waiting on those wire taps to arrive tomorrow. Did you see my question about when does the circuit turn on? Is it upon approach or when door is opened or something else?

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