Are you using a Residential-rated receptacle Then an EV Industrial Rated receptacle to charge?

[hridge2020]

See What Sandy Munro and Experts have to say.

Basically, it's better to use a direct line to your Charge unit which it was designed and rated to handle the long charging cycle.

The industry has not made EV-rated receptacles and circuit breakers for the long-duty cycles of charging an EV. (Most on the market rated for Dryer's duty cycle usage only). One of Sandy's hosts suggests that Hubbell does make a more robust type of receptacle which costs some $$$.

Home Charging Installation Risks and Advice

See at 7:44 for Wake up announcement to suppliers of receptacles & Circuit Breakers for EVs usage.

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[CyberGus]

I plan on have a professional installation of a wall adapter, since I can get rebates. Oddly, I need a VIN first lol

 

[BillyGee]

I ran it direct and tuned it to 30A instead of the max, haven't had any issues since.

Originally it was on an older breaker and it lost a leg to melting, which is why I tuned it down. Still makes no difference when I start the charging at 1215am and wake up to my car being good to go.

 

[Ogre]

It’s not that hard to convert a dryer outlet into a dedicated Wall Connector. The expensive part of the wall connector is the wiring and it’s mostly done.

I ran a dedicated circuit with 60 amps for my Model Y. I’ll probably get a second wall connector when I get the truck. Use the same wiring and set it up to share juice from that 60 amp line.

 

[Ogre]

One of Sandy's hosts suggests that Hubbell does make a more robust type of receptacle which costs some $$$.

Dryers run for 45 minutes at a time and even during that cycle they often aren‘t pulling the full 30 Amps. EVs will pull the full amperage for 6 hours solid to charge the car. Huge difference in heat dissipation.

Another possibility is to just reduce them amperage when you charge. While I love having 60 amps, we survived on 15 amps/ 120v for a long time. 20 amps/ 240v is very tolerable and much less likely to melt outlets.

But just spend the money on the wall connector wired direct, worth it.

 

[firsttruck]

https://hubbellcdn.com/prodimage515/WBP_HBL9450A_PRODIMAGE_515.jpg[/IMG] [/URL]

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[CyberGus]

It’s not that hard to convert a dryer outlet into a dedicated Wall Connector.

Bullshit! I left my clothes in the car all night, and they’re still not dry

 

[firsttruck]

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Tesla Motors Club forum - Almost burned the house down
Thread Start date Nov 27, 2021
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/almost-burned-the-house-down.248063/page-2


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[firsttruck]

Some people are recommending

$60 Hubbell / BRYANT Receptacle Model# 9450FR
Single, Flush Mount, 50 A, 125/250V AC, NEMA 14-50R, Black

Be careful about exact model# when buying.
I think their data sheet lists Model# 9450FR as industrial grade.
Based on construction, the Hubbell branded part# HBL9450A still looks to be a more robust design (ie. terminals) but BRYANT Receptacle Model# 9450FR should be much better than Leviton residential.

Other Bryant model#s are residential grade
RR450F
RR450FW
RR450
RR450PM


Bryant Catalog A27 CatPage
Straight Blade Devices
50 Amp Industrial Grade Plugs, Connectors and Receptacles
https://hubbellcdn.com/catalogpage/Bryant_Catalog_A27_CatPage.pdf

 

[greggertruck]

See What Sandy Munro and Experts have to say.

Basically, it's better to use a direct line to your Charge unit which it was designed and rated to handle the long charging cycle.

The industry has not made EV-rated receptacles and circuit breakers for the long-duty cycles of charging an EV. (Most on the market rated for Dryer's duty cycle usage only). One of Sandy's hosts suggests that Hubbell does make a more robust type of receptacle which costs some $$$.

Home Charging Installation Risks and Advice

See at 7:44 for Wake up announcement to suppliers of receptacles & Circuit Breakers for EVs usage.

LITERALLY melted ours last week. I thought I'd commented about it. Get the industrial Bryan one or whatever it's branded. Our 3 was charging and it got too hard then it sparked and the charger MELTED man.. NOOOOOOOO chances.

Wall charger when we get the truck. I bet they have a different kind of charger even? Like higher voltage? I don't know for sure obviously but maybe ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[Ogre]

LITERALLY melted ours last week. I thought I'd commented about it. Get the industrial Bryan one or whatever it's branded. Our 3 was charging and it got too hard then it sparked and the charger MELTED man.. NOOOOOOOO chances.

Wall charger when we get the truck. I bet they have a different kind of charger even? Like higher voltage? I don't know for sure obviously but maybe ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Doubt home charging will be any different for the truck. Even if you fully discharge you can get mostly reset on a 60 amp circuit (48amp charging) overnight. I think charging at 20 mph? Maybe.

 

[Ogre]

Bullshit! I left my clothes in the car all night, and they’re still not dry

You have to hang them up and set the climate control in your car to 75 degrees.

 

[greggertruck]

Doubt home charging will be any different for the truck. Even if you fully discharge you can get mostly reset on a 60 amp circuit (48amp charging) overnight. I think charging at 20 mph? Maybe.

We would get like 32mph charge on the Model 3 but the battery size difference, I bet you're right.

 

[Crissa]

These fixtures are violating their rating, Period. They've gotten away with it for now, but how many fires have been blamed on the dryer vent when it was a faulty fixture?

-Crissa

 

[Bill906]

All the time spent on this forum and watching Munro Live has paid off simply because of learning this bit of info. I plan on installing a Tesla Wall charger at home, but planned on having dad install a 240V outlet at his house for me when I visit. It’s 290 miles driveway to driveway. Driving 70-80 MPH most of the way on a cold winter day, I’m going to be rolling in with a pretty low battery, and at least at first, I plan on driving it a lot the next day showing it off. Original plan was to charge at max current all night once I got there, but with a new super charger opening close to my parents house, I may stop there for 10-15 minutes on the way home. Either way, when it comes time for him to install the outlet I will go shopping and buy the $100 one for him, as well as talk to his electrician about this.

Although this information is scary, and it’s definitely a failure, I would like to point out, the only stories I have heard are people saying they ALMOST burned their house down. When done right electrical equipment should not fail, but are often designed so that if they do fail, they are designed to mitigate the damage and prevent catastrophic failure. To pass UL, the industrial electrical products my company makes has to pass the cotton test. We have to wrap the product in cotton then intentionally short it out. If the cotton catches on fire, the test failed. The devices are high voltage (480V and 690VAC three phase) and high current (mostly up to 300A but a few products over 700A). When you short out a 300A device, the power cables going to it actually twitch.

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