Electrified Cybertruck body panels when charging?

[mongo]

Just saw this video. Can anyone confirm or is this just an issue with their truck?

Wall connector had ground and L1 swapped.
Result: chassis was at L1 voltage instead of ground.

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[CyberGus]

Revised title: "Faulty Wiring Hazardous"

got it

 

[cyberbeasty]

more thorough? ? care to
retract your statement now that people are showing it’s actually real?

it’s people like you that make forums suck.

 

[cyberbeasty]

thanks for confirming. too many triggered “experts” on here. can’t even ask a damn question

 

[Tony2times]

Just saw this video. Can anyone confirm or is this just an issue with their truck?

Once again, stupid shit that is meant to drive views. Enough is enough. Too many dumb fucks, someone needs to hit the reset button on these assholes.

 

[HaulingAss]

thanks for confirming. too many triggered “experts” on here. can’t even ask a damn question

But you did ask the question, and it was answered.

It's fake. They are just messing with you. Farmers are born pranksters. Their big ass grins should have been your first clue.

 

[HaulingAss]

False. Because a Tesla will not draw any current from an ungrounded connection, if your only problem with your wiring is the ground connection is open.

 

[HaulingAss]

Every Tesla since at least the Model S checks for a valid ground before drawing any current. But don't take my word for it:

Troubleshooting Tesla Car Charger (grayzerelectric.com)

Specifically:

One (1) red blink means that there was a ground fault circuit interruption due to an unsafe current path.
What to do: Inspect the handle, cable, Wall Connector, and vehicle charge port for damage or signs of water ingress. Have an electrician check that the earth ground is not directly connected to a conductor wire in the branch circuit.

Two (2) red blinks mean that there was a ground assurance fault or a high ground resistance has been detected.
What to do: Contact an electrician to verify that the Wall Connector is properly grounded. The ground connection must be bonded in the upstream power supply for proper operation. Check all physical connections, including the wirebox terminals, electrical panel, and junction boxes. In residential power supplies, check the bond between ground and neutral at the main panel. If connected to a step-down transformer, contact the transformer’s manufacturer for directions on how to bond the ground connection.

You will also find it impossible to charge a Tesla from a generator unless the ground is bonded to the neutral.

 

[Crissa]

This is not fake. The charger had a hot line in its neutral.

It's still sorta fake, as it's definitely their fault it's doing this.

-Crissa

 

[mongo]

Every Tesla since at least the Model S checks for a valid ground before drawing any current. But don't take my word for it:

Troubleshooting Tesla Car Charger (grayzerelectric.com)

Specifically:



You will also find it impossible to charge a Tesla from a generator unless the ground is bonded to the neutral.

The generator issue is that without the generator chassis bonded to neutral, there is no electrical connection from hot to ground. This is the default setup when the expectation is that the generator will be connected to a structure that already has a neutral to ground bond at the Service entrance.

False. Because a Tesla will not draw any current from an ungrounded connection, if your only problem with your wiring is the ground connection is open.

Terminology: the EVSE only cares about a connection from line to ground. It can't check if the ground is actually bonded to earth.
One could bias the EVSE ground node to any potential relative to earth and the EVSE would never know. So you can charge from an ungrounded connection as long as the "ground" is connected to a line. Like a three prong to two prong 120V outlet adapter. Then the chassis "ground" would be at local neutral potential which is an AC voltage proportional to charge current and wire resistance.

Regarding the ground continuity check:
A wall connector on 240V does not use neutral.
When testing only the L1-G connection there is no way to determine if L1 and ground are swapped.
Normal: 120V from L1 to G, with continuity
Reversed: 120V from L1 to G, with continuity

A check from L2 to ground has a similar issue. A 120V connection could be validated by potential check from L2/N to G, but not a 240V split phase.

From a system level, miss wiring could be detected by measuring voltage between the three connections. In the miswired setup, the WC would have seen 120V from G to L1, 208V from L1 to L2, and 240V from L2 to G. Individually, these readings are fine for a Gen 3 WC*. However, G-L1 being higher than L1-L2 is an indication something is wrong. This would also show up on the vehicle charging display as 208V instead of the expected 240V.

Even then, there still is no way to check that ground is actually earth (0V).

*Gen 2 WC called out 120V max G-L1 and G-L2, however, Gen 3 does not.

 

[webwrangler]

Just saw this video. Can anyone confirm or is this just an issue with their truck?

I do not have this issue with my Cybertruck but I did get shocked by my Nissan LEAF when it was plugged into a 120 outlet via the mobile charger (that I had to pay extra for) I think it had more to do with the circuit I was using than the car. When a qualified electrician installed a 240v outlet for the car, the problem resolved.

 

[Woodrick]

Are you actually measuring the voltage between the vehicle and concrete?
And doing it with what, salt impregnated cloths?

And to top it off, barefoot?

And the icing on the cake, it appears you are measuring DC voltage. (hence the minus sign)

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